Fig. 13. From Koruldashi glacier 8–10 hrs. The route is prone to rockfall. 65. Tsurungal via the North-West ridge (combined route. A. Freisля, 3B cat. dif., fig. 5, 12, 13). From Ailama meadows (point 44) follow the center of the Western branch of Ailama glacier (closed crevasses) to approach Tsurungal saddle on the Main Caucasian Range between Ailama and Tsurungal. From the glacier, having crossed a snow bridge or bypassed a large bergschrund on the left under Tsurungal slopes, ascend 200–250 m up an icy-snowy slope (loose rocks, belay). Then, bypassing two ice crevasses on the right, approach the rocky slope of the saddle (steep slope). Ascend 150–200 m up severely damaged steep rocks of medium difficulty (loose rocks, streams) to the left side of the saddle (cornice). On the saddle, turn left and ascend wide talus rocks to reach the north-west ridge of Tsurungal. On the route:

• Ascend 200–250 m up steep easy severely damaged rocks of the North-West ridge (belay)
• Then ascend 60–80 m up steep rocks of medium difficulty (piton) to the rise
• From the rise ascend 300–350 m up easy severely damaged rocks of the North-West ridge
• Difficult sections are bypassed on the left

Archimedes Peak via the northern ice gully, Category III, Winter Climbing.

From the Ukyu-kosh hut, follow the terminal moraine trail to the KSP "dovecote" shelter - 3/4 to 1 hour. The ice gully is a hanging glacier tongue descending from the 3rd ridge plateau, bounded on both sides by rocky buttresses. Over a 200m stretch, the glacier's slope is 40-45°, with the lower 40m being nearly vertical and, in places, overhanging. From the "dovecote", cross the glacial stream and ascend the icy slope with rocks and snow debris to the glacier's terminus. When ascending the tongue, stick to the safer middle section and only shift towards the left buttress rocks when reaching the gentler upper part. From the route's start - 5-8 hours. Further ascent along the ridge to the 3rd and highest peaks, and descent - as per description 1. Hazardous sections: the entire lower part of the route is prone to rockfall from both sides. It's advisable to start the route as early as possible; avoid starting after a warm night or in low visibility. Special equipment:

• Ice screws - 8-15 pcs.
• Ice hammers (ice fifis)
• Crampons - for all participants

Bashkhauz, S. Ridge

The approach to the SW — Bashkhauz cirque — is similar to the previous description. Go through the cirque under the slopes of the S. ridge and ascend to the MSTU pass — the last saddle on the S ridge. 3–4 hours from the hut. Along the snowy ridge with outcrops of destroyed rocks, simultaneously with belay on the protrusions, to the steep rocky ascent. Here:

• Traverse left 20 m.
• Then ascend up the snowy slope (at the beginning of the season), or along the destroyed rocks (attention! — rockfall hazard, possible ice) to the SE — shoulder of the ridge. Along the gentle ridge simultaneously to the summit. About 1 hour from the pass. The descent from the summit is along the SW ridge according to the previous description. Hazardous areas:
• on the Bezengi glacier — crevasses and rockfall hazard from the S slopes of the peak

5. Bashkha-Auz-bashi via SW ridge.

From the "Jangi-kosh" hut through the "crescent-shaped" moraine to the Bezengi glacier, along the left (in the direction of travel) side of the glacier (attention - closed crevices, rockfall hazard from the S slopes of Peak Warsaw), bypassing the bases of three S spurs of the main ridge, into the SW cirque of Bashkha-Auz-bashi, along the cirque under the slopes of the SW ridge. From the hut 2.5–3 hours. Through the bergschrund, along the left side of the snow slope, bounded on the right by a rocky buttress of the ridge (attention - rockfall hazard on the right side), onto the ridge. Along the snowy ridge with rock outcrops, with simultaneous belay on protrusions and bends of the ridge to the summit.

• From the glacier - 1.5 hours.
• Descent along the ascent route to the glacier 1 hour, and then to the hut about 1 hour.

6. Bashkha-Auz-bashi via S ridge.

The approach to the SW cirque of Bashkha-Auz is similar to the previous description. Traverse the cirque under the slopes of the S ridge and ascend to the MSTU pass - the last col in the S ridge. From the hut 3–4 hours. Along the snowy ridge with outcrops of broken rocks, with simultaneous belay on protrusions, to a steep rocky ascent. Here, traverse left 20 m and then ascend up the snowy slope (at the beginning of the season), or along broken rocks (attention! - rockfall hazard, possible ice) to the SE shoulder of the ridge. Along the gentle ridge simultaneously to the summit. From the pass about 1 hour. Descent from the summit along the SW ridge according to the previous description.

Башхауз, from the ridge. From the “Jangi-kosh” hut along the ridge of the right-bank (“crescent-shaped”) moraine to its flattening, then along the Sella glacier. Along the left edge or through the middle of the icefall (fig. 1) exit to the upper circus and through it (attention — hidden crevasses) — under the slopes with the Bash-a-uz-b ridge. To the right of the rocky outcrops from the glacier along the slopes with the ridge to the left to the talus counterforce coming from the pass. Go around the base of the counterforce from the left, ascend from it along the S slope. Along the ridge of the counterforce, then 30–40 m along the ice drop wall (steepness 50–60°) and along the flattening snowy slope under the Sella pass, 4–5 hours from the hut. From the pass along the S ridge simultaneously to the summit of the 1st “gendarme” (control tour), then down 30–40 m along the rocky shelves to the snowy slope and bypassing the 2nd “gendarme” to the right — to the ridge. The 3rd “gendarme” — head-on or to the right, and along the snowy ridge (attention — possible cornices to the left) through small rocky “gendarme” head-on to the summit. 3–4 hours from the pass. Descent from the summit:

• along the SW ridge to the snowy saddle,
• then to the left along the right side of the snowy slope (rockfall hazard from the left),
• to the Bezengi glacier and along it (attention
• Hidden crevasses, under the slopes of the Warsaw peak rockfall hazard — bypassing

Ба­ш­хауз, 3 контр­фор­са с греб­ня. From the “Djangi-kosh” hut along the crest of the right-bank (“sickle-shaped”) moraine to its flattening and further along the crest of the counterfort with small rocky walls, then along the N crest to the right to the summit. From the start of the route 6–8 hours. Descent from the summit along the SW ridge to the snowy saddle, left along the right edge (attention - stonefall hazard on the left) of the snowy slope to the Bezengi glacier and along it (cautiously: closed crevasses, stonefall hazard under the S slopes of peak Вар­ша­ва) bypassing the S spurs of the Sella - Вар­ша­ва ridge to the hut. From the summit 1.5–2 hours. Hazardous areas:

• On the glaciers - hazardous closed crevasses and stonefall hazard under the S slopes of peak Вар­ша­ва
• On the snow-ice slope to the right of the counterfort - stonefall hazard
• On the N crest - possible cornices on the left
• When descending from the SW ridge - stonefall hazard on the left side of the slope. Special equipment:
• Rock pitons - 7–8 pcs.

Bashkhaauz, 3rd buttress of SW ridge. From the “Jangi-kosh” hut along the ridge of the right-bank (“sickle-shaped”) moraine to its flattening and further along the Sella glacier. Along the left edge or in the middle of the icefall (fig. 1) to the upper cirque and through it directly (attention — hidden crevasses) to the base of the most extensive buttress of the SW ridge of Bashkhaauz (fig. 3). From the hut 1.5–2.5 hours. The snow slope above the bergschrund — straight up under the protection of the rock walls at the base of the buttress, then along the boundary with the rocks on the left of the buttress to the first talus ledge with snow and along it to the right on the ridge. Along a straightforward ridge for 40 m to the black wall with exfoliating rocks, then traverse left for 20 m to the “finger”, straight up for 15 m along rocks of medium difficulty and slabs to the base of the yellow

1. Brno peak via the South Ridge, 1B.

From the alp camp along the left-bank trail of Mizhirgi gorge (1.5 hrs), across the boulder-strewn glacier (20–30 min) and through the "pocket" between the slopes of Brno and the left-bank moraine (30 min) to where the glacier turns west (Cheget-Mizhirgi). Bypassing the base of the South-East ridge of Brno peak, up the grassy slope and along the trail beside the stream into the moraine "pocket" of the glacier flowing from the North Ridge of Misses-Tau. Traverse the icefall on the right via the talus shelves on the South slope of Brno, emerging onto the plateau; 2–2.5 hrs from the clearing. From the plateau, ascend the talus South slopes of Brno peak, gradually bearing left onto the South Ridge and then along the ridge. The ascent to the summit along the rocky ridge (in rope teams) takes 2–3 hrs from the plateau. The descent via the ascent route takes 3.5–4 hrs. Hazards: rockfall hazard on the shelves when traversing the icefall.

2. Gidan via SE ridge, 2A

The ascent to the upper cirque of Gidan from the “Ukyu-kosh” hut is done according to the previous description. Move along the "pocket", then cross over to the right-bank moraine at the confluence with the slope, descend into the cirque, approach the slopes of the SE ridge along the left edge of the cirque and ascend to its saddle — 2.5–3 hours. From the KSP "Golubyatnya" shelter, it is advisable to head to the upper cirque by moving along the slopes of the left south counterfort of Mt. Ukyu M. From the saddle, proceed left, strictly along the line of the rocky ridge with protection on rock outcrops (caution! — do not deviate onto the ledges to the right of the ridge — the rocks are heavily deteriorated and outcrops are unreliable). A 6-meter rock wall in the middle section of the ridge is climbed directly via a crack with piton protection. The pre-summit "gendarme" is bypassed on the left via rocks (caution — heavily deteriorated), then 20 m up and right to the summit. From the saddle, 1–1.5 hours. Descent is done via the 3rd ridge as per the previous description. Hazardous areas: deteriorated rocks on the 3rd slope of the pre-summit "gendarme".

8. Two Boitsa Peaks via the 3rd Ridge

From the Djangi-kosh hut, across the "sickle-shaped" moraine, onto the Bezengi Glacier, along the left (as you move) side of the glacier (watch out for covered crevices and rockfall from the southern slopes of Pik Varsavia), bypassing the bases of the three southern spurs of the main Varsavia - Sella ridge, into the SW cirque of Bashkha-auza. Between the end of the southern ridge of Bashkha-auza and Pik Kamnepadnyi, the SW cirque glacier has a branch to the SE into the Dykh-su gorge. Here, exit onto the rocks at the end of the southern ridge, with a slight loss of height traverse the ridges going in the SE direction, and descend into the SE cirque of Bashkha-auza. Through the cirque, under the slopes of the eastern ridge of Bashkha-auza and further up to Spartiak Pass — the snowy saddle closest to the peak. From the hut, 4–5 hours. From the pass, east along the sharp snowy ridge (possible cornices on the north side) with two small "gendarme" peaks, ascent to the rocky summit of the 1st Boitsa. Descent to the SE along the rocky ridge, then left and down the destroyed and snow-covered rocks (watch out for rockfall) onto a wide snowy saddle of the ridge. In adverse weather conditions, it is possible to leave the route here, going left onto the Krumkol Glacier, and return to Spartiak Pass via the glacier. From the saddle, across two snowy "gendarme" peaks and along the sharp snowy ridge to the start of the rocky inner corner. With piton belay, 10–12 m up to the right, then left and up the steep snowy slope onto the ridge. Along the snowy ridge to the saddle and from it, up the steep snow-ice pitch with piton belay to the summit of the 2nd Boitsa. From Spartiak Pass, 4–5 hours. Descent and return via the ascent route. To Spartiak Pass, 2–3 hours and then 1.5–2 hours.