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First ascent of Peak "5826 m" in the Maly Tanymas valley in the northwestern Pamir, 3B category route.

Peak 5826 meters. NORTH-WESTERN PAMIR. MALY TANIMAS VALLEY. FIRST ASCENT. 1967. Sports group of the Odessa DSO "Avangard". Ascent leader V. Nelupov. Odessa. 1969. Peak "5826 m" is located in one of the ridges formed by the peaks:

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Description of the ascent route to Peak 6431 via the NW wall from the Ayu-Jilga glacier, category 6, 2130 m height difference, 2685 m length.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class: High-altitude technical
  2. Ascent area: Pamir, Akademiya Nauk range
  3. Peak, its height, route: Peak 6431, via NW wall (from Ayu-Jilga glacier)
  4. Estimated difficulty category: 6B category of difficulty
  5. Route characteristics: Height difference:
    • Rocky part of the route — 1850 m
    • Snow-ice part of the route — 280 m
    • Total height difference of the route — 2130 m
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Report on the first ascent of the route through the left part of the north face of Peak Kommunizma (7495 m) with a description of the path and tactical actions of the team.

Report on the First Ascent of the Route to Peak Kommunizma (7495 m) via the Left Part of the North Face

Climbing Passport

  1. Pamir. Akademiya Nauk Range. The highest point of the former USSR. Peak Kommunizma (Ismoili Somoni) 7495 m. Claimed category: 6A (winter). First ascent. In terms of complexity and conditions, a normal 6B. Route type: ice. Elevation gain: 2500 m. Route length: approximately 5500 m.
  2. Section lengths: I — 1400 m, II — 2700 m, III — 230 m, IV — 800 m, V — 200 m, VI — 165 m.
  3. Average steepness of the main part of the route: 75°.
  4. Number of pitons left on the route: total — 30.
  5. Total number of ice screws used on the route: 240.
  6. Total number of artificial anchors (AAs) used: 50.
  7. Team's total climbing hours after processing the route: 4 hours.
  8. Team:
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Report on the ascent of the KAiS "Black Ice" team to the summit of **Korzhenevskaya** via the left bastion of the southwestern ridge, category 5B difficulty.

Report on the Ascent of

Peak Korzhenevskaya via the Left Bastion of the Southwest Ridge, Category 5B, by the "Black Ice" Team from July 23 to July 28, 2022

I. Route Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full Name, Sports Rank of the LeaderMikhail Aleksandrovich Polyakov, 1st sports rank
1.2Full Name, Sports Rank of ParticipantsMikhail Vladimirovich Grishin, 1st sports rank, Sergey Valerievich Nasedkin, 1st sports rank up to 6300 m
1.3Full Name of CoachVasily Yuryevich Gordeev
1.4Organization"Black Ice"
2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object
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Description of the first ascent of Peak Vanchak (5436 m) along the southern ridge in the Western Pamir Mountains, category of difficulty 5A.

  1. Category of ascent
  2. Area of ascent, ridge
  3. Peak, its height, ascent route
  4. Proposed category of difficulty
  5. Route characteristics: height difference, average steepness, length
  6. Pitons hammered for belay: rock ice
  7. Number of walking hours
  8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics
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Ascent to Kamchatsky Peak (5050 m) via the Northwest slope, route description, technical information, and climbing history.

n KAMOHCK-YPR.ABCKUH 5050 Aeroplane n 5400 5833 Route 2 Wtyrmaвoú noзерь Route category 5400 Object name 25. 15. Bero-uey 76 600,40',20,-12, 15 B. 5pabepuain T. Kozack A. Cyбopкина, B. Tpuyoreeba

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Ascent of Peak "5307" via the North Counterforce, category 5B, made by a group of climbers in 1974.

I. Climbing class — technically challenging. 2. Climbing area — Central Pamir, Northern spur of the Vanch ridge, upper reaches of the Dustiroz river gorge. 3. Climbing route — peak "5307" via the Northern counterfort from the moraine of the Pravy Dustagor glacier. 4. Climbing characteristics: elevation gain — about 1600 m, average steepness — 45–50°, length of the challenging section — about 1100 m in height, starting from approximately 4000 m above sea level and up to the pre-summit ridge; total length of key sections — about 200 m. 5. Pitons hammered: rock — 62, ice — 20, bolted pitons — not used. 6. Total climbing hours — 36 (ascent — 27, descent — 9). 7. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: total — 3 (two during ascent, one during descent). First bivouac at an altitude of about 4200 m. Can lay out a site for one tent. No water. Snow. Second bivouac on a shelf at an altitude of about 4750 m. Sitting bivouac. Safe. No water. Snow. Third bivouac on the Western ridge, 150–200 m beyond the summit. Can lay out a site for one or two tents. No water. Ice, snow. 8. Team name — sports group of the "Vysochnik" alpine camp, combined team from Gorky (SDSO "Burevestnik", DSO "Trud"). 9. Surname, name, patronymic of the team leader, participants, and their qualification: Rodionov Sergey Nikolaevich (leader) — 1st sports category, Vyshinsky Nikolay Nikolaevich — 1st sports category, instructor, Borisov Gennady Konstantinovich — 2nd sports category, instructor, Vavilov Alexander Ivanovich — 2nd sports category, instructor.

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Ascent to the Gipsa peak (5100m) via the southern slope, category of complexity 2A.

5100m P Gyp­sxy 18.07.70 A 16.07

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Climbing certificate for an unnamed peak (5231 m) in the Central Pamir via the Western Ridge, difficulty category 5-4, climbed by a team from the Gorky Regional Council of the "Zenit" Voluntary Sports Society in 1976.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — technically challenging First ascent, approximately 5-4 difficulty category. 2. Ascent region — Central Pamir, Northern spur of the Vanchsky Ridge. 3. Ascent route indicating peaks and their elevations: Unnamed peak — 5231 m (conditionally named p. Khrustalny) via the western ridge. 4. Ascent characteristics: elevation gain — 1731 m, average steepness — 50°, length of complex sections:

  • ridge before the gendarme wall — 300 m,
  • wall of the trapezoidal gendarme — 200 m,
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A description of the ascent route to the summit Imakouk (4533 m) with a detailed breakdown of the stages and categories of complexity.

5 Imakouk

4533 m Hovebka №2 4350 m R19

  • R17
  • R18 R16
  • R14­–R15
  • R12­–R8
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