Fig. 5 12. Peak Shevchenko 9416 m via the Northwest Ridge (A. Zyuzin's route, combined, 3B category of difficulty, Fig. 5). From the base camp on the right bank of the Psygansu River, not far from the tongue of the Nakhashbita Glacier (group of 4–5 people), ascend along the ridge of the left-bank moraine of the glacier to the base of the Northwest Ridge of Peak Shevchenko. Here, turn left and ascend along the scree to the left of the Northwest Ridge of the peak to a wide, steep snow-ice couloir descending from the Northwest Ridge of the peak. From here:

• ascend to the right along the scree,
• then along the steep snow-ice slope on the left side of this couloir for 150–200 m under the wall (possible rockfall — piton belay). Then, ascend along a small, heavily broken, moderately difficult rock wall to reach the Northwest Ridge of Peak Shevchenko. On the ridge, turn left and ascend along simple and moderately difficult broken rocks of the Northwest Ridge. Overcome the I and II gendarmes head-on along moderately difficult rocks, the III — along a chimney and rocks above moderate difficulty of the wall (piton belay) with a 20 m rappel, and from it to a ledge under the IV gendarme. Bypass the IV and V gendarmes on the right along shelves, and then reach a platform on the Northwest Ridge.

ADAI VIA THE EASTERN WALL

(combined route, category 4A difficulty) Path from the KSP of the Tsey region to the entrance bivouac on the sites with an exit to the upper snow plateau of the Skazskiy glacier. From the sites (departure at 2–3 a.m. due to rockfall in the lower part of the route) having passed onto the glacier plateau in the direction of the Skazskiy pass 3000, turn right and approach the lowest rocks on the right side of the entire rock belt — the Eastern wall of Adai peak, to the left of the wide snowy slope-gully descending from the peak and its North ridge, dangerous due to rockfall and avalanches. From the plateau, having crossed the bergschrund via a snow bridge, exit onto the rocks of the rock belt of the Eastern wall. Through simple and moderately difficult sections of the lower belt (the lower rocks can be bypassed via the snowy slope on the right), then via the snowy slope ascend up to the left, onto the snow-covered lower base of the rock belt. From the shoulder — ascent via snow, then via simple and moderately difficult ruined rocks descend to the left to the lower walls of the Central belt. Above the walls, via steep ruined rocks of moderate difficulty of the lying edge, then via a 10–12 m wall (“live” rocks, piton belay), further 150 m via simple and moderately difficult ruined steep snowy (rockfall possible!) alternating with ice-snow slopes approach the rocky ascent of the Central belt. Traverse the ascent via smooth rocks (moderately difficult) of the internal corner (piton belay) with an exit from it onto the right edge of the triangular gray rocky pre-summit belt.

126. Bu­bis (4428 m) via North Ridge-slope (the route is combined, cat. 2B, fig. 20, 29). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region or from the village of Dzina­ga (a group of 4-20 people) to the Tsey-Karaugom pass with an initial bivouac on the North branch of the Tsey glacier or on the Karaugom plateau below the pass is described in route 83. At the pass (when ascending from the Tsey glacier), turn left and approach the crevasse in the North Ridge-slope of Bubis Peak via a snowy slope. Having passed the crevasse over a snow bridge, ascend a steep 120-150-meter ice-snow North Ridge-slope, to the right of the rocky ridge (avalanches are possible - piton belay) with two rocky outcrops, then ascend easy rocks to the summit of Bubis. 2-3 hours from the pass. Descent is via the ascent route. Descent from the pass to the Tsey glacier in the second half of the day is rockfall-dangerous. Duration of the route:

• 3 days. Naumov A. F. Karaugom, Di­goria, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., “Fizkultura i sport”, 1976.

The path from the sports camp in the Tsey district or from the village of Dzinaga to the initial bivouac on the middle plateau of the Western branch of the Karaugom plateau, under the Eastern slopes of the Burdzhul peak. From the initial bivouac (closed crevices) across the snowy fields of the plateau, then along the snowy slope to approach the Eastern edge of the Burdzhul peak between the Eastern ridge on the left and the Eastern buttress of the Northern ridge on the right (on the left and right above the Eastern edge are ice falls). From the plateau, having crossed the bergschrund on a snow bridge, ascend a steep snowy slope to the rocks of the Eastern edge. From here, 120 m upwards along steep rocks of medium difficulty ("live" stones, possible rockfall — piton belay) to a couloir. Then, along steep, simple and medium difficulty rocks of the couloir (rockfall — piton belay) 80–100 m straight up. Then exit the couloir to the right and ascend 120–150 m along steep, smooth rocks of above medium difficulty on the ridge (piton belay). Along simple and medium difficulty rocks of the ridge, ascend 150–180 m to a snowy-ice slope. From the plateau, 5–6 hours. From the ridge, traverse 150–180 m left-upwards along a steep snowy-ice slope (possible avalanches — piton belay) to a rocky outcrop. Then, along simple and medium difficulty rocks of the outcrop, reach its summit. Cairn. From the outcrop, traverse 60–80 m to the left (piton belay) along a steep snowy-ice slope, then along a snowy ridge crest, ascend to the summit

Description of the route 3Б cat. sl. to Peak Vils, 4,100 m. Approaches.

From A/L "Tsey" 1.2 km south (A = 195) to the entrance to a wide couloir falling from the northwest walls of Peak Vils. Then move up the couloir. The couloir is cut by a narrow canyon; one should move to the left of the canyon (on the orographic right side of the couloir) up to its beginning, vertically upwards, 1.2 km. At the place where the canyon begins, there are spots for tents. Bypassing the canyon from above, traverse a steep scree slope - about 300 m (with caution, all upper couloirs are stone-hazardous, especially the southern one!) to a rocky counterfort; bypass the counterfort from below, then move up and to the left to its upper part - about 200 m to the overnight stay. The overnight stays are located on a scree section in the upper part of the counterfort, 100–150 m from the NW ridge of Peak Vils. The ascent from A/L "Tsey" to the overnight stays is approximately 1.3 km, taking around 6 hours.

Route.

From the overnight stays, move towards the ridge in the direction of the counterfort with a pronounced rock outcrop. There are two possible variants along scree ledges and easy rocks to the ridge; once on the ridge, climb easy and moderately difficult rocks to a horizontal ledge going left, 0.5–1 m wide, then along the ledge (about 30 m) to a clearly defined internal angle. Alternatively: from the overnight stays, along easy and moderately difficult rocks and scree ledges, directly under the counterfort to a horizontal ledge 0.5–1 m wide, in the left part resting against an internal angle. From this ledge begins the key section of the route.

“Live” rock - piton protection, with several small gendarmes and narrow, short saddles, ascend to the site of the East shoulder of the ascent between two small gendarmes. From the site, overcoming a small gendarme head-on, cross the saddle and via steep rocks of medium difficulty on the right side of the ridge, ascend to the Big gendarme. The Big gendarme can be initially bypassed on the shelves on the left side, then via steep couloirs (“live” rocks, protection) ascend behind it to the snowy saddle under the 3rd gendarme. The gendarme is overcome head-on via rocks of medium difficulty. Bypass the 4th gendarme via steep destroyed rocks, with an exit above the saddle under the gendarme. This gendarme is passed via rocks of medium difficulty on the ridge, then via the sharp snowy 200–250-meter ridge (cornices), via simple rocks the ascent to the summit of Zaromag. From the gendarme “ZIL” hours. Descent to the south. The duration of the route is 3 days.

Kalper

Kalper (3800 m) — the extreme northeastern, purely rocky peak of the Kalper ridge. Its northern ridge descends to the confluence of the Tseylo and Ardon rivers. There are many "live" stones on the slopes and ridges of the summit. Fig. 42 211. Kalper via the Eastern slope of the Southern ridge (rocky route, category 2B, fig. 41, 42). From the CSP of the Tsey district (group of 4-20 people), ascend along the trail on the grassy slopes along the left bank of the Skazdon river. Then turn left and move up along the trail on the grassy slope along the edge of the forest towards the cone-shaped tower. Bypass the tower on the left and exit to the right onto the scree. Ascend to the second, standalone rocky tower via the scree, bypass it on the right, and enter the scree-filled couloir leading to the Ossetian pass. On the left side of the wide, snow-filled couloir in its upper part, bypass a rock protruding into the couloir on the right, and ascend to the Ossetian pass (stonefall is possible from Peak Three into the couloir and onto the pass). From the CSP of the Tsey district, 6-7 hours. From the Ossetian pass, descend along steep, fine scree slopes, then along a snowy slope. Cross the bergschrund and exit onto the Kalper glacier (stonefall is possible from the slopes of Peak Three), cross it, and approach the median moraine. From it, ascend to the right — upwards, first along the glacier, then along the snowy slope to the left side of the saddle connecting the Kalper summit and Peak Shulgin — the Kalper pass. From the Ossetian pass, 1.5-2 hours. The Kalper pass has a bivouac site. Water is available on the western slope of the Southern ridge of the Kalper summit.

From the Osetin pass, [descend] along the middle part of the glacier, then along the scree and reach the second rocky outcrop (counting from the Kalper pass). From the rocky outcrop, go left-up along the scree and "sheep's foreheads" to the platforms. From the Osetin pass I — 1 h 30 min. From the platforms, ascend left to a green ledge. Traverse the ledge right-up towards the "gates." Then, ascend a snowy (snow-ice) slope to enter the "gates" (with protection) and then rise to a scree saddle. Cairn! From the platforms 1 h. From the saddle, ascend first left-up (30 m), and then along an inclined ledge right-up (loose rocks!) to the black vertical veins on the 80-meter wall. Overcome the wall to the right of the black veins. (Difficult climbing, piton protection, possible rockfall from above!) After overcoming the wall, traverse right (40 m) along a snowy couloir (protection! Possible rockfall!) and exit onto a simple ridge. Ascend the ridge with simultaneous, sometimes alternating, protection left-up to a triangular rock. Traverse the rock left-up (piton protection!) and then right-up to reach the upper edge. Continue strictly along the edge towards the summit. From the control point

169. Kaltberg (4120 m) via the Western slope and the Northern ridge (combined route, category 1B difficulty, Fig. 35). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (group of 4-6 people) to the Lower Ice overnight camps is described in route 83. From the Lower Ice overnight camps, cross the Uilpatinka river and, turning left, intersect the right-bank moraine. Descend from it to the Tsey glacier, cross it, then ascend to the left-bank moraine at its lowest part. Leave the moraine and ascend via the middle talus on the right side of the couloir descending from the Northern ridge of Kaltberg peak. Then:

• cross the couloir to the left and upwards,
• reach a grassy slope and move up along it to the Western counterfort. Further, via simple broken rocks and talus of the Western counterfort, bypassing all gendarmes along simple rocks and talus ledges, ascend to the Northern ridge of Kaltberg. Here, turn right and, via simple rocks, bypassing difficult wall sections on the left, then along the 100-120-meter wide icy-snowy Northern ridge (with protection), approach the Big Gendarme. Here, exit right onto a talus ledge. Along it, then via steep rocks of the Northern ridge, ascend to the Big Gendarme. From the gendarme, make a 12-15 m sports descent to a snowy saddle. Further:
• via steep rocks of the narrow Northern ridge,
• a 30-meter broken ascent,
• ascend to the summit of Kaltberg.

Fig. 21 89. Karaugom East (4495 m) via North-Eastern Ridge (combined route by V. Lubents, category III, fig. 21). The path from CSP of Tsey region or from the village of Dzanaga (group of 4–8 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the Western ridge of Bivouachnaya peak is described in route 83. From the bivouac, cross the Karaugom plateau to the northwest (closed crevasses) and approach a wide snowy saddle on the ridge connecting the peaks of Vologata on the right and Karaugom on the left. Reach the bergschrund on the left side of the wide snowy slope and, overcoming it via a snow bridge, ascend a steep ice-snow (belay) 300–400-meter slope to the saddle. Here, turn left. Further:

• Along the wide ridge of the saddle (cornice)
• Then along the gradually increasing steepness of the North-Eastern ridge of Karaugom East (cornices)
• Exit through a 10–12-meter ice wall onto the takeoff rocks (pitched belay) Along simple and medium-difficulty takeoff rocks («live» stones, pitched belay) of the North-Eastern ridge, ascend to the shoulder. From the shoulder, along a snowy (cornices), then along a heavily destroyed and snow-covered rocky ridge («live» stones — belay) reach the summit of Karaugom East. From the initial bivouac, 6–7 hours. Descent follows the ascent route. Source: