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Description of the ascent route to the summit via the "4600" pass, traversed by a group of climbers in August 1969.

5. A

August 7–10, 1969. L.A. Belnev, L.N. Pimakova, D.M. Molorodov, A.S. Mardovov The route begins with the "4600" pass, which connects the Пуровского (Purovsky) and Толстого (Tolstoy) glaciers. The path across the "4600" pass from the assault camp in the upper reaches of the Пуровского glacier goes:

  • along the main part of the glacier,
  • then along its left tributary. The first stage of the icefall. The path from the assault camp on the Кисоши (Kisoshi) glacier to the overnight stay on the left tributary of the Пуровского glacier takes 9 hours. Ascent to the "4600" pass
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Description of the first ascent of a combined route of category 6B difficulty level to "Admiraltets" peak (5090 m) in the Turkestan Range of Pamir-Alay.

PASSPORT

  1. Technical category.
  2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Ak-Su gorge.
  3. Peak "Admiralteets" (5090) via the "pillar".
  4. Proposed 6B category of difficulty, first ascent, combined.
  5. Total elevation gain of the route — 1500 m. Elevation gain of the "pillar" — 700 m. Elevation gain of the main part of the "pillar" — 560 m. Total route length — 2840 m. Length of the "pillar" — 920 m. Length of the main part of the "pillar" — 660 m. Average steepness of the "pillar" — 70°. Average steepness of the main part of the "pillar" — 77°. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 640 m.
  6. Number of pitons used: | Ice | Rock | Nuts | Bolts | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :---: |
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Ascent record of Peak Dostoyevsky (4974 m) via the Western Ridge, grade 4B, first ascent.

Ascent Passport

I. Technical category. 2. Pamir-Alai, Ak-Su valley. 3. Peak Dostoevskogo 4974 m via the western ridge. 4. The route is combined, first ascent, category 4B complexity approximately. 5. Height difference: 1080 m Average steepness — 33°. Route length — 2270 m 5. Rock pitons hammered — 27 pcs. ice screws — 4 pcs. Used chocks — 9 pcs.

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Technical ascent of MIS DSO "TRUD" team to the Peak "4786" via the northern counterfort of the eastern ridge.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class: technical
  2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay (Kara-Su gorge)
  3. Ascent route: via the northern counterfort of the eastern ridge of peak "4786"
  4. Ascent characteristics: elevation gain — 1200 m, average slope — route: 44°, wall section: 85°, length — route: 1680 m, difficult section: 600 m
  5. Pitons driven: rock — 132, ice — none, bolt — none
  6. Total climbing hours: 31.5 hours
  7. Number of bivouacs: two, first — sitting on a ledge, second — comfortable on the ridge
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Description of a technical ascent to the 4490 m peak in the Pamir-Alay range via the central counterfort of the north face, category 6B, completed by a team of climbers in 1989.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent category — technical.
  2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range.
  3. Peak 4490 m («Ptitsa») via the central buttress of the N wall.
  4. Proposed category — 6B, first ascent.
  5. Height difference — 780 m, length — 810 m. Length of 5–6 category sections — 630 m, of which 6 category — 450 m. Average steepness — 72° (3710–4490), steepness of the wall section — 77° (3760–4390).
  6. Pitons hammered in: | Type | Primary | Additional | | :---------- | :------ | :--------- |
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Route description: snow-ice slope, scree and snowy ridge with steepness up to 40° and potential crevasses and cornices.

R0–R1 — ascent to the pass, snowy-ice slope, 400 m, steepness — 35–40°. R1–R2 — talus — 20–25°, 300 m. R2–R4 — snowy ridge, 400 m. R4–R5 — snowy slope up to 35°, crevasses, cornices.

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Description of the traverse of the Belukha massif Western plateau via the 5B category of difficulty route, completed in 1983.

Ascent Passport

  1. Region — Altai, Akkem valley.
  2. XX let Oktyabrya — Belukha Zap. — Delone via East counterfort (4A) of the Western plateau, traverse.
  3. Proposed — 5A category of difficulty variant.
  4. Elevation difference 1500 m, length about 10 km. Average steepness of the wall part of the route — 55°, length — 1200 m.
  5. Pitons hammered: rock — 30 ice — 20
  6. Travel hours — 32, days — 7 (including 2 days of bivouac on the route due to bad weather).
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Description of the 1B category complexity route to the Kara-Oshk summit via the Kara-Oshk pass in the Katunsky ridge of Altai.

v. Kara-Oyuk from p. Kara-Oyuk Mokhova V. M. Altai 1.

Passport

  1. Rock category.
  2. Altai, Katunsky ridge.
  3. Assumed 1B category of difficulty, first ascent.
  4. Height difference 400 m, length 1500 m.
  5. 7.5 hours of walking time from the camp under v. Boris.
  6. Mokhova V. M. 1st sports category
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Description of the ascent route to Peak Svobodnaya Rossiya in the Katunsky ridge of Altai, complexity category 1B, elevation gain 600 m.

Ascent Passport

Region — Altai, Katunsky ridge. Peak — Svobodnaya Rossiya peak. Route — combined. Estimated difficulty category — 1B. Elevation gain — 600 m. Distance — 2000 m. Technical equipment used — ice axes, rope. Travel time — 5–6 hours from the overnight stay.

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Ascent record of Bard Vizbor peak via Western ridge, difficulty category 3A, a combined route with an altitude difference of 600 m.

1.2.6 Ascent Log

Peak Barda Vizbora via the West Ridge. Ascent class — technical. 2. Region, mountain range — Altai, North Chuya Ridge. 3. Peak Barda Vizbora, 3390 m, ascent via the West Ridge, combined route. 4. Anticipated difficulty category — 3A. 5. Route characteristics:

  • Elevation gain — 600 m;
  • Length of sections with 3rd difficulty category — 150 m;
  • Average slope — 30°.
  1. Pitons used: rock — 3, ice — 2.
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