After the couloir, traversing left upwards the scree slopes, we come to a destroyed counterfort of yellowish color. On the left (in the direction of travel) side of this counterfort, on the border of rocks and snow, we move straight up to the exit to the main ridge, leading to the summit. The ridge is snow-rocky, heavily destroyed, in some places under the snow, there is ice. The path along the ridge is unambiguous and leads straight to the summit "feathers". On the ridge, there are several small gendarmes, overcome head-on, and two are bypassed on the left. When bypassing gendarmes, the insurance is hook-type. Under the snow, ice is possible. There are several large cornices on the ridge, hanging over the right (in the direction of travel) slopes of the ridge.

The route­­ is an ascent via the NE ridge to p. Vytautas (5586 m). View from the North. (Camera «Zenit-E», lens «Industar-50-2», 3.5/50)

1. Class of ascent: high-altitude-technical 64
2. Region of ascent: 10–3. Pamir, Inner gorge
3. Peak 5616 m (Shyaulyay Mt.), traverse along the 10th ridge
4. Proposed for Championship title, rock climbing, first ascent
5. Route characteristics: height difference 300 m, average slope 50° section lengths: 538 m, 1224 m, 1830 m
6. Pitons driven: for rock protection 5, chocks 5
7. Number of climbing hooks: 11
8. Number of anchors: —
9. Team leader: Bloshkis, Augustas, Romualdovna 2nd category. Team members:

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between the rocks. The movement is alternating, with protection using rock ledges. In this place, the first rope team натянула перила for the rapid passage of the second rope team (I–I,5 ropes). The couloir is prone to rockfall. The rocks are heavily destroyed. Further:

• we come out onto steep and hard snow
• in the upper part, the couloir becomes steeper (25–30°)
• there are sections of not very firm ice The movement is alternating. We come out into a lowering of the ridge onto a snowy plateau. The ridge in this place practically merges with one of the plateaus in the southern part of the glacier. (2–2.5 hours) From the snowy plateau, the ascent directly up the ridge rocks is impossible due to the presence of a bergschrund at the start of the ascent, and the rocks are steep and icy with few handholds. Therefore, the group moved along the ridge across the snowy plateau and ascended a steep snowy slope (30–35°). The ascent is in three stages with alternating protection; the snow is loose and crumbly, and a deep trench remains behind the leader. The ascent goes in the direction of an ice mulda on the ridge (4–5 ropes, 1 hour). The further path goes directly along the ridge. The ridge in this place represents endless ascents of varying steepness with small gentle sections between them. In some places, snow lies in a thin layer on the ice. Protection is alternating; some sections are traversed on front points. One of the ascents ends with a steep ice wall (3–4 m), where piton protection and step chopping are required. Sometimes, under a shallow layer of snow, ice crevasses are encountered.

Ча­сов processed this section of the path (7 ropes). The detour was made with thorough piton protection and using sport rappel (1 rope, an ice axe with a loop was left). Further, handrails were hung (2 ropes) traversing the wall to the snow-ice mulda. After a short horizontal section of the ridge, the first drop was followed by:

• another drop, one rope,
• then a mulda. Further, again, there was a horizontal section with a cornice and a very steep slope. Having ascended the wall to the mulda, the "two" cut steps along the ridge below the line of cornice break-off for three to four ropes and returned back to the remaining group at 18:00. The remaining "three" were busy with:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: high-altitude technical.
2. Ascent region: Central Pamir, southern spur of the Yazgulemsky Ridge in the area of p. Revolyutsii.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. Pinka, 6254 m, southern ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 4B category of difficulty.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1450 m, average steepness up to the exit to the southern shoulder — 3°, average steepness of the southern shoulder — 6–7°,
6. Number of pitons hammered: rock — 19, ice — 12, bolt —
7. Number of climbing hours: 15 hours.

Technical Description of the Route

2624 The description of the route from base camp "4300" to camp "Peredovoy" is given in the description of the first ascent of Pik Fikker made by a group of the Chelyabinsk expedition of the Zenit Sports Association under the general leadership of Master of Sports of the USSR Levin M.S. From camp "Peredovoy" (see photo 1 and 2), ascend along the rocks via a snow-ice slope covered with calga-spores to the ridge. The slope's steepness is 30–40°. The height gain to the ridge is 300 m. High calga-spores, especially on steep sections, ensure safe movement early in the morning. Movement is in rope teams. Time to ascend to the ridge is 1 hour. Further movement is along the ridge. The ridge is snowy, with protruding rocky outcrops, and is wide. The steepness of the slopes forming it is 40–50°. The steepness of the ridge from the point of ascent to the summit varies from 10–15° to 40–45°. Before reaching the summit, one can move along the talus or to the right along the snowy slope. Movement along the entire path is in rope teams. Time to ascend along the ridge to the summit: 1–1.5 hours. The summit is a dome formed by gently sloping snowy slopes. From the summit, a beautiful view of the surrounding panorama opens up:

• Pik Revolyutsii,
• Pik Fikker,
• Pik 26 Baku Commissars,

204. Kayarta Glavnaya via the South Ridge (Category 1B route). The path from the "Adylsu" alp camp to the Shternberg Pass through the Tyutyusu gorge is described in routes 184 and 203. From the pass, turn left and exit onto the rocky South Ridge of Kayarta Glavnaya peak. From here, ascend simple and solid ridge rocks. Bypass the first 30-meter-high gendarme on the right (belay!). Beyond it:

• ascend the severely damaged simple rocky ridge,
• then traverse along the right snowy slope to reach the rocky edge of the South shoulder,
• ascend 50–60 m up the moderately difficult rocks of the edge. Then: