between the rocks. The movement is alternating, with protection using rock ledges. In this place, the first rope team натянула перила for the rapid passage of the second rope team (I–I,5 ropes). The couloir is prone to rockfall. The rocks are heavily destroyed.

Further:

• we come out onto steep and hard snow
• in the upper part, the couloir becomes steeper (25–30°)
• there are sections of not very firm ice

The movement is alternating. We come out into a lowering of the ridge onto a snowy plateau. The ridge in this place practically merges with one of the plateaus in the southern part of the glacier. (2–2.5 hours)

From the snowy plateau, the ascent directly up the ridge rocks is impossible due to the presence of a bergschrund at the start of the ascent, and the rocks are steep and icy with few handholds. Therefore, the group moved along the ridge across the snowy plateau and ascended a steep snowy slope (30–35°). The ascent is in three stages with alternating protection; the snow is loose and crumbly, and a deep trench remains behind the leader. The ascent goes in the direction of an ice mulda on the ridge (4–5 ropes, 1 hour).

The further path goes directly along the ridge. The ridge in this place represents endless ascents of varying steepness with small gentle sections between them. In some places, snow lies in a thin layer on the ice. Protection is alternating; some sections are traversed on front points.

One of the ascents ends with a steep ice wall (3–4 m), where piton protection and step chopping are required. Sometimes, under a shallow layer of snow, ice crevasses are encountered.

At 3 pm, the group approached a section with an overhanging cornice and decided to stop for a bivouac, as the further path seemed doubtful at first glance. The ridge in this place is very narrow with a large unreliable cornice, and it drops off steeply. A bypass of this section was possible by traversing left along a snowy-icy wall with a steepness of 60–70°. A pair, without backpacks, in the course of three