Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class

• Rock climbing

2. Ascent Area

• Pamir-Alai, Fann Mountains

3. Ascent Route — North face of peak Arg — third ascent — 5B category of difficulty
4. Ascent Characteristics height difference 1100 m; average steepness of the wall 80°, length of complex sections 870 m.
5. Pitons Driven rock 194, ice –, bolted 6

Recommendations and clarifications for ascending to the summit RED POINT via the East Ridge — 3–5 cat. difficulty. 0. The ascent to the ridge at the point of its significant lowering via snow ledges is clearly visible from below at the start of the route.

1. The slab in front of the grey pillar is bypassed on the left via a ledge-crevasse.
2. When bypassing the grey pillar on the right, it was necessary to cut 2–3 steps in the snow-ice slope.
3. A good platform /in the form of a practically horizontal slab on the ridge/ for overnight stay is available 30–45 minutes before reaching the grey pillar.
4. It's best to pass the gully with a plug in its upper part without backpacks.

PASSPORT

1. Rock climbing category
2. Pamir-Alay. Fann Mountains. Imat valley.
3. Patrush peak.
4. Proposed 1B category of difficulty. First ascent.
5. Height difference 200 m. Length of sections: 2nd category of difficulty – 150 m 1st category of difficulty – 400 m
6. Pitons not used.
7. Moving time – 2.5 hours
8. Group members: Baykovsky Yu.V., Gupalov A.

Content

• Content
• Ascent Passport (Appendix 1)
• General view photo of the summit
• Map of the ascent area
• Description of the approach to the route
• Table of route section characteristics (Appendix 2)
• Explanation of the route section characteristics table
• Photos of route sections

The Kok-Bel spur, stretching in the meridional direction, separates the Kshemish and Purovskogo glaciers. Ascents to the peaks located in the spur are made:

• from the east - from the Kshemish glacier,
• from the west - from the Purrovskogo glacier,
• as well as from the passes connecting these glaciers. The transition from the base camp under the Kshemish glaciers to the assault camp in the upper reaches of the Purovsko glacier takes about 7 hours. At the same time, it is necessary to cross the snowy pass of Puroveko roughly 2B cat. The path through the Kiroksan pass takes significantly more time.

Critical Caucasus

II. Peak (4600 m) from the Purovskogo pass 3B cat.:

• April 22, 1969 — I. G. Lobkin, A. K. Kuzminikh April 28, 1969 — V. E. Eskarov, V. O. Panov From the assault camp on the Purovskogo glacier, the ascent is to the left of the Purovskogo pass to a snowy saddle, separated from the pass by a large mandarin. From the saddle, the path goes along:

From the approach to Vetrenaya pass (for a description of the route to the pass, see the section “Ascent in the Skalisty peak massif”) - easy rock ascent to the wall. The wall is 55° steep, 50 m long, has complex rocks (10 m), in the middle of the wall it's on friction. The path goes straight up. After the wall, the path goes along the ridge for several meters, and then left up a chimney (5 m) to the shelves, along which there is an 80 m traverse. Then climb up steep sandy walls (50 m), exit to the summit. From the pass to the summit takes 2 hours. Descent via the ascent route (2 abseils), the rocks on the route are complex. From the approach to the pass to the summit takes around 6 hours.

From the Polish bivouacs on the ridge, the route goes along the main edge of the Kara-Bel spur across the plateau. Crossing the lateral ridges leading to the Snezhny and Balkon peaks, we reach a saddle on the main ridge (the saddle - good weather). From the saddle, on the right side of the main edge, we ascend a steep snow-ice slope to the summit (on the last 200 m the steepness is up to 50°). From the Polish bivouacs - 3 hours. Descent follows the ascent route.

5. A

August 7–10, 1969. L.A. Belnev, L.N. Pimakova, D.M. Molorodov, A.S. Mardovov The route begins with the "4600" pass, which connects the Пуровского (Purovsky) and Толстого (Tolstoy) glaciers. The path across the "4600" pass from the assault camp in the upper reaches of the Пуровского glacier goes:

• along the main part of the glacier,
• then along its left tributary. The first stage of the icefall. The path from the assault camp on the Кисоши (Kisoshi) glacier to the overnight stay on the left tributary of the Пуровского glacier takes 9 hours. Ascent to the "4600" pass

PASSPORT

1. Technical category.
2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Ak-Su gorge.
3. Peak "Admiralteets" (5090) via the "pillar".
4. Proposed 6B category of difficulty, first ascent, combined.
5. Total elevation gain of the route — 1500 m. Elevation gain of the "pillar" — 700 m. Elevation gain of the main part of the "pillar" — 560 m. Total route length — 2840 m. Length of the "pillar" — 920 m. Length of the main part of the "pillar" — 660 m. Average steepness of the "pillar" — 70°. Average steepness of the main part of the "pillar" — 77°. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 640 m.
6. Number of pitons used: | Ice | Rock | Nuts | Bolts | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :---: |

Ascent Passport

I. Technical category. 2. Pamir-Alai, Ak-Su valley. 3. Peak Dostoevskogo 4974 m via the western ridge. 4. The route is combined, first ascent, category 4B complexity approximately. 5. Height difference: 1080 m Average steepness — 33°. Route length — 2270 m 5. Rock pitons hammered — 27 pcs. ice screws — 4 pcs. Used chocks — 9 pcs.