Introduction

Peak Evgenia Korzhenevskaya is the fourth highest seven-thousander in the country (7105 m). Despite being near Peak Kommunizma (7495 m), Peak Evgenia looks very majestic. Its giant summit dome is visible from the Zaalaysky ridge pass from Ters-Agar to Khodzha-Toо. The approaches to it are very difficult:

• The path is blocked by the mighty river of the Pamir - Muk-su;
• But the difficulties do not end there: the path along the left (orogr.) side of Muk-su is often blocked by deep, steep-walled sairs cut by turbulent rivers originating from the glaciers of the Academy of Sciences and Peter the First ridges. The approaches to Peak Evgenia Korzhenevskaya are relatively simple only along the valley of the Mushketov Glacier; from here it looks dazzlingly magnificent. The approach along the Ayu-Dzhilga valley is difficult: the river flows in a narrow canyon. But even having overcome the difficulties of approaching the Ayu-Dzhilga Glacier, one will not feel relief: the path to Peak Evgenia leads up steep, artificially polished black walls. The path along the Fortambek valley is blocked by a canyon of the river only in one place. All routes to Peak Evgenia Korzhenevskaya that have been completed so far start from the Fortambek valley. It is precisely the inaccessibility of the summit that EXPLAINS the rare expeditions aimed at conquering it. Without helicopters, this undertaking is extremely cumbersome. Currently, there are several helicopter landing sites at the foot of the peak, and therefore interest in this summit has increased significantly. Six different routes have been completed, but it cannot be said that the peak is fully explored and climbing it is not challenging. A characteristic feature of most of these high-altitude routes is the high demands they make on the technical preparation of climbers.

Climbing Passport:

1. Pamir, Akademiya Nauk range
2. Peak Korzhenevskoi, 7105 m, via SW ridge (V. Markelov, 1984)
3. Climbing category — 5B
4. Route type: combined
5. Route elevation gain: 2500 m Route length: 5000 m Length of sections: category V — 30 m Average slope:

• main part of the route — 60°

PASSPORT

1. High-altitude class
2. Central Pamir
3. Peak Korzhenevskaya, via the Southwest Ridge
4. Proposed - 5B category of difficulty, first ascent
5. Elevation gain: 2800 m, route length 5000 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty - 3000 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 50° (5100–6100 m).
6. Pitons used: rock 23/0

1. Class of ascent — high-altitude;
2. Region of ascent — Pamir, Academy of Sciences Range;
3. Peaks, their height, ascent route: Peak E. Korzhenevskaya (7105 m) with ascent from Moskvina Glacier along the southwest ridge (Markelov's route);
4. Category of difficulty — 5B;
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 3000 m; length of sections: 1st category of difficulty — 1000 m, 2nd category of difficulty — 800 m, 3rd category of difficulty — 300 m, 4th category of difficulty — 740 m, 5th category of difficulty — 160 m; average steepness: 30°;
6. Pitons driven: for creating artificial holds — none, for belaying — 44, of which rock pitons — 4, ice screws — 40, bolt pitons — none;
7. Number of climbing hours: 6+7+10+10+8=41 hours;
8. Number and characteristics of bivouacs: 4 bivouacs, lying down;
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the team leader, participants, and their qualification: Krasnoukhov Yuri Vasilyevich (MS) — team leader

Passport

1. Altitude class
2. Central Pamir
3. Peak Korzhenevskaya 7105 m via the triangle of the Western wall
4. Proposed — 5B cat. diff., first ascent
5. Height difference: 1900 m, length — 3305 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 765 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 73°. Of which 6 cat. diff. — 85°–120 m.
6. Pitons driven:

USSR ALPINISM FEDERATION Central Council of the SDSO "Burevestnik", Bauman MSTU sports club

Ascent to Peak Evgenia Korzhenevskaya (7105 m) via South Face of the Pamir Mountains. (Report)

Team Coach A. Ovchinnikov Team Captain L. Dobrovolsky Fortambek Glacier — Moscow, 1966 www.alpfederation.ru I. Brief Geographical Description, Exploration, and History of Ascent to Peak Evgenia Korzhenevskaya

Ascent Certificate

1. Category of high-altitude ascents.
2. North-western Pamir. Northern spur of the Academy of Sciences Range.
3. Peak Korzhenevskaya. Height 7105 m. Via the South-Eastern slope. Route is combined.
4. Route category 5B.
5. Height difference 2925 m.
6. Pitons used: rock 16, ice 50. Number of placed protection elements: 12.
7. Total climbing time: 18 h 30 min.
8. One bivouac was made on the route. The bivouac site was carved into the snow and ice ridge. The bivouac was comfortable and met safety requirements.

High-Altitude Climbing Category

Report

on the ascent of Peak E. Korzhenevskaya, submitted for the primacy of the Central Council of the "Burevestnik" in the 1976 season Team of the Moscow City Council of the "Burevestnik" Sports Association October 1976 Team captain V. Belyakov Moscow

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category: High-altitude
2. Ascent area: Central Pamir
3. Ascent route with peak names and elevations: Peak E. Korzhenevskoi (7105 m) via Southeast Ridge, category 5B complexity
4. Ascent characteristics: elevation gain — 2925 m, average steepness — 40°, complex section length — 1105 m
5. Pitons used: rock — 2, ice — 2, bolted —
6. Total climbing hours: 34 hours
7. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: 4 bivouacs, comfortable, on moraines and snow platforms on the ridge, safe.
8. Team name: Team of climbers from the Kazakh Republican Council of the Spartak Sports Society
9. Full name of team leader, participants, and their qualification:

Report

on the ascent of the Leningrad Sports Committee team to Peak Shchurovsky via the Western wall "Surka" and the edge of the bastion of the Northern wall, category 5B (variant) Team captain — S.G. Kalmykov Team coach — A.I. Moshnikov Central Caucasus January – February 1983

Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of Peak Shchurovsky

Peak Shchurovsky is located in the Main Caucasian Range, which forms a complex zigzag in this area. The south-eastern ridge descends to the Western peak of Chatyn-Tau, and the north-eastern ridge descends to the Lожный Chatyn pass. To the south of the peak, reaching an altitude of 4100 m, is the famous Ushba plateau, descending along the western slopes of the peak with a grandiose Ushba icefall. The northern wall of the peak faces the Shkheldinsky glacier. On its kilometer-long slope, cut by snow and ice couloirs, the upper bastion stands out with a dark steep face, the right edge of which rests on the north-western counterfort, having a steep western wall. The rocks of the bastion and the western wall "Surka" are characterized by their monolithic nature and smoothed relief, reminiscent of the relief: