1. Ascent category — snow and ice
2. Kyrgyz Ala-Too
3. Peak Izyskatel (4400 m) via the center of the northwest face
4. Proposed category difficulty — 3B
5. Height difference — 300 m Route length — 400 m. Average steepness — 50°
6. Pitons driven — 31/0 (ice screws)
7. Climbing hours — 4.5
8. Base camp — hut near Koronsky glacier
9. Rodikov A.P. — Candidate Master of Sports

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent classification — technical
2. Ascent region — North Tien Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too ridge, Ala-Archa gorge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Kyrgyzstan Peak (4840 m), via the central counterfort of the north wall.
4. Presumed difficulty category — 5B
5. Ascent characteristics: height difference — 1290 m average steepness — 80°, length of difficult section 5–6 hours, tr — 1040 m
6. Pitons hammered in: rock — 215 ice — 69, bolt — none, of which for creating belay anchor points — 48
7. Number of climbing hours — 47

Route Description

From the foot of the Vrona Glacier, initially move along the talus, then along the right (orographically) side of the glacier in the direction of the saddle between the I and II Towers of Vrona. From the gendarme V. Korona, move in crampons. The bergschrund is passed via a snow bridge in the right part of the glacier. Further, bypass the black gendarme on the right, ending at the saddle with a yellow saw-tooth wall. The exit to the saddle is between the yellow wall and a heavily destroyed gendarme. Ascent up the wall (7 m, 80°) with piton belay, then move along the ridge to the top of the gendarme (belay via protrusions). At the top - control cairn. Further, descend down to the gap between the saw-tooth gendarme and the I Tower of Vrona:

• Descend 8 m to a square ledge;
• From it, descend sportingly (10–12 m, 80°) into the gap. From the gap:
• Ascend right-upwards along a sheer wall (4 m, 90°) - piton belay;
• Further ascent along inclined slabs (60 m, 30°) and exit via ledges to the summit.

Оya­tsa ma­pu­rya­ta­po sections

Sect. 3. The start of the route is to the right of a pronounced rocky outcrop. The bergschrund wall is 3–5 meters. Then, along the icy slope, along the rocks to the right of K. Kelyugin's route, up the S wall, 3rd grade. Belaying:

• through ice screws Movement:
• on a double rope
• with the use of ice axes (French: piolet-traction is not mentioned but "айс-фи­фи" is translated as "ice fifis" or more likely "ice axes" in this context, but it is kept as "ice-fifi" or simply using "crampons" and tools for self-arrest) is not accurate here, so it is translated as "ice-fifi" Sect. 3. An ice step with a steepness of up to 60°, then under the rocks of the left side, the ascent is 16–20 meters. Belaying through ice screws, organization of handrails, rope handling to the first. In these areas, preliminary processing with 6 ropes. Sect. 3–6. Ice slope up to 55° along the rocky side. Entrance to the shoulder of the western counterfort. Before exiting to the shoulder, the steepness of the ice is up to 60°. Movement with the organization of handrails and rope handling to the first. Belaying through ice screws, using ice-fifi and ice axe. Control cairn in the area of section No.4. Sect. 8–10. Movement along the rocks, 3rd cat. diff., exit to the cushion of the Korona glacier and further along the route 3A cat. diff. to the Korona (I-ya) summit. Alternating and simultaneous movement, belaying through ice screws, rock pitons, and chocks. On the shoulder of the western counterfort — a control cairn. Sect. 10–12. Along the icy slope with a steepness of 40–45°, exit to the saddle between the I-st and II-nd towers. From the saddle, 1.5 ropes to the summit. Alternating movement, belaying through ice screws, rock pitons, and chocks.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — rock. 2. Ascent region, ridge — Tian-Shan, Ak-Sai gorge, Kyrgyz Ala-Too ridge. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. 4240 (p. Ratsek) via the center of the northern wall. 4. Difficulty category — 5-6 cat. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 640 m, length of 5-6 cat. sections — 563 m, average steepness — 75° 6. Pitons hammered in: a) for belay: rock — 75, ice — 63, bolt — 11; b) for creating belay anchors: rock — 37

Ascent Passport

1. Region, Northern Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too Range, 7.4.
2. Peak Korona (5th) via 3rd ridge.
3. Category of difficulty: 5B.
4. Route type: combined
5. Route elevation gain — 700 m. Route length — 920 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 160 m. Average slope of the route: main part of the route — 61°,

REPORT

ON THE ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF KORONA, 5-YA VIA THE WESTERN RIDGE, CATEGORY 5B, BY THE KAIS MEI TEAM FROM AUGUST 12, 2021 TO AUGUST 13, 2021 Moscow, 2021

I. ASCENT DOCUMENTATION

New route on the 5th Tower of Corona in Ala-Archa 6A, 950 m, fr 6c, A2

SW wall of the 5th Tower of Corona with routes. (Glukhovtsev's route is not correctly marked — it goes right in the middle part to the couloir) Few people know that at the end of August, a new route appeared on the SW wall of the 5th Tower of Corona in Ala-Archa. The route was climbed by a team of two: Syzshchikov Anatoly (Yekaterinburg) and Markevich Konstantin («SCA Zelenograd», Moscow). Since the guys are very modest, I'll describe this ascent for them. In winter 2009, Misha Borich and I tried to climb it in a light style, without a platform, bolts, and preliminary processing, but were blown away after 3 days (http://mountain.ru/article/article_display1.php?article_id=4401, our attempt). When Tolik went to Archa for gathering, he asked for some interesting route to be suggested. And here is the result. I'll simply relay the information from the report.

Ascent passport

1. Class — technical.
2. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz ridge, Ak-Sai gorge.
3. Corona peak, 5th Tower, 4860 m, right part of SW wall.

Author: Dmitry Pavlenko, Bishkek

Corona 6th tower 4B

It's great when you can climb two routes of the same declared category in one day; it makes comparison much easier. After Dvurogaya, we immediately climbed the 6th tower because I was very curious about where the 4B route was. The wall rising directly from the col looked inadequate, especially considering the year of the first ascent - 1959, so we went to examine the ledges from right to left. The ledges led us to fifth-category rocks, quite lively at the beginning. We managed to climb two full pitches of normal climbing, which we had to break into three sections for safety reasons. We climbed onto the col not far from the summit tower, with the rope on the ridge. Corona 6th tower 4B, crux We descended without problems via the ascent route, with two full rappels down to the piton traverse.

2. Traverse of Sulakhat summit from north to south — 2A cat. diff. (see Fig. 7)

From the northern summit, left and down into the pass. Then along the ridge (insurance through ledges!) to the control cairn. From the cairn, descend to the right along the crevice to a shelf and along it (piton insurance!) to the next ridge saddle. Then along the ridge to a 30-meter wall. Descend along it to the ridge. From the ridge, descend to the right to a shelf and then along the ridge to the base of the South summit. Ascent to the South summit along the ridge. Descent from the South summit to the right along a gully (insurance!) to a shelf and along it to exit to a narrow snow patch in a couloir. Then along the couloir (insurance!) to a large snowfield and down it. Then exit left along grassy slopes and scree to a trail and along it to the bivouac. The route from bivouac to traverse and back to bivouac takes 8–9 hours.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants in a group — no more than 8 people.
2. Initial bivouac — lower Sulakhatskaya nochevka.
3. Departure time from bivouac — no later than 5:00.
4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope — 2×30 m; b) expendable cordelette — 2–3 m; c) rock pitons — 4; d) ice pitons — 3 (in the second half of summer); e) rock hammers — 2; f) carabiners — 8; g) crampons 4 pairs (in the second half of summer).
5. Possible bivouac locations on the North, Central summits and under the South summit.