XVIII. Brief Explanation of the UIAA Scheme

The ascent along the snowy cone of the talus does not constitute part of the route but is considered a difficult section because the loose deep snow interspersed with ice blocks complicates movement. Sec. R0–R1 · Bergschrund — a crevasse perpendicular to the slope, the upper edge of which overhangs and acts as a springboard. Sec. R1–R2 · Firn couloir with a steepness of 50°. Sec. R2–R3 · Ice groove through a rock belt 50 m, up to 65°. Sec. R3–R4 · Firn slope with a steepness of 50°. Sec. R4–R5 · Entry onto the "ram's foreheads" along the line between the upper rock steps. Sec. R5–R6 · Snow-covered "ram's foreheads". Sec. R6–R7 · Rocky ascent 150 m, 60°. Sec. R7–R8 · Ice wall 40 m, exit onto a ledge between seracs. Sec. R8–R9 · Traverse left to bypass the icefall. Sec. R9–R10 · Snow ascent 30°. Entry onto the saddle. Sec. R10–R11 · Flat snow field towards the Eastern ridge of the North summit of Western Belukha. Sec. R11–R12 · Wind-swept ice ridge with rocky outcrops 45°, 500 m. Sec. R12–R13 · Summit ridge with snow cornice to the left, up to the North summit of Western Belukha 300 m. Sec. R13–R14 · 1000 m along a sharp snowy ridge traverse to the main summit of the Specified Belukha 4456 m. Caution, snow cornices! Sec. R14–R15 · Descent along the Western ridge of the main summit onto the Western plateau, 400 m vertically.

R0–R1 — ascent to the pass, snowy-ice slope, 400 m, steepness — 35–40°. R1–R2 — talus — 20–25°, 300 m. R2–R4 — snowy ridge, 400 m. R4–R5 — snowy slope up to 35°, crevasses, cornices.

Edelweiss Pass Route

Eastern Ridge Route, Category 1B difficulty

Traverse of Khabarovsk Climbers Peak

Descent from the Routes

Via the Eastern Counterfort, Category 1B difficulty. From the camp to the start of the route takes 20–25 minutes.

V. Krasnoyarsky Burevestnik (3010) — 2B

centered control point. South slope. From the guiding cairn, move upwards, bypassing the left edges from the right, across a snowy rocky scree to a large, standalone stone "ring". Section 0–I: Movement across inclined slabs. A rocky couloir with loose stones is crossed towards the right edge, centered control point. Section I–2: Movement across inclined slabs. Section 2–3: Bypass the edge from the right across inclined shelves, then 3 meters of rock climbing (5%) straight up. Exit onto the edge. Section 3–4: Movement across icy, inclined slabs of the edge, to the wall before exiting onto a shelf. 2 meters up the wall with complex climbing (5). On the shelf, there's a control cairn and a comfortable spot for an overnight stay. Section 4–5: Movement across an icy-snowy couloir, then across complex rocks with flow ice, right side of the inner corner.

Ascent Passport

1. Region, gorge, section number according to the classification table (2001) – 11.3 Mountain region of Kunlun (China, Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region), Muztagata massif, Kalakhong glacier.
2. Name of the peak: Peak Koskulak, 7028 m, route name: via SW ridge.
3. Category of difficulty: 5A category, approximately; first ascent
4. Nature of the route — snow-ice
5. Height difference of the route: 2100 m (according to map, altimeter, and GPS); route length – 6025 m; length of sections with 5th category of difficulty – 210 m;

63. Kichkidar via Western slope of the Southern ridge (route is combined, 2A cat., fig. 5, 7). The path from the “Jailyk” alp camp (group of 4–12 people) to the upper plateau of the Zapadny Yunum glacier with the initial bivouac at the “Verkhne-Kichkidarskie nochovki” is described in route 73. Across the glacier plateau (closed crevasses) approach the snowy-ice Western slope on the left side of the saddle of the massif, which connects the Kichkidar peak on the left and the Yunumkara peak on the right. From the glacier, having crossed the snow bridge over the bergschrund, ascend 180–200 m up the steep snowy-ice Western slope to the snowy-ice saddle (possible cornices) to the left of the two rocky towers of the Zaitsev. On the saddle, turn left and along the wide snowy-ice ridge (cornices) of the saddle, approach the ascent to the Kichkidar tower summit. Along the steep easy rocks of the ascent, bypassing the gendarme on the left, with a 10-meter wall (belay) on the Southern ridge, ascend to the summit of Kichkidar. From the “Verkhne-Kichkidarskie nochovki” 3–3.5 hours.

165. Lekzyr Severnaya via the Eastern slope of the Southern ridge (combined route, category 2B, fig. 24, 26). At Tot pass (item 160. turn right and reach the snowy eastern slope of Lekzyr Severnaya peak. From here, 300–400 m up-left along a gentle snowy slope (avalanches, rocks), in the upper part along the rocks or to the right of them — to reach the shoulder of the snowy counterfort. Up along the counterfort, then cross left a wide snowy couloir (avalanches, rocks) of the saddle between Severnaya and Glavnaya peaks and reach a vaguely expressed ridge. From here, 80–100 m up along steep easy destroyed and snowy rocks of

Traverse of peaks Ozyorny - Khimik, combined, Category 3

Route description:

From the Ulutau alpine base through the sports ground, where the trail begins, which goes past the former "Churko dorm", then along the stream (to the left of the stream), flowing from under the glacier on the northern slope of the "Treugolnik" peak. Further, the trail turns left and goes along the rocky outcrops to the training rocks "over the camp". Here the trail is lost, you need to move up the grassy slopes to the moraine deposits and further along the moraine deposits and ascents up past the cirques of the Treugolnik and Moskovsky Komsomolets peaks to Ozyorny lake. There are bivouac sites near the lake. Going around the lake to the right, you come out onto the Ozyorny glacier. Straight ahead will be the ridge between peaks Zimny and Ozyorny (a pronounced depression in the ridge). You need to move not to this ridge, but to move along the glacier to the right along the long "fence" of the Northwest ridge of peak Ozyorny to a wide snow, in the lower part scree, couloir with a clearly visible ridge in the ridge before the gendarme. Up the couloir to the right past rocky outcrops (to the right) to the ridge. The first gendarme is bypassed on the left along the shelves, then exit to the right onto the ridge and further along the ridge to the next gendarme, which can be bypassed on the right along the shelves and come out onto a large snow ridge, from which the pre-summit snow and ice ascents open up. Here it is possible to organize a bivouac, since further movement goes entirely on snow, which in the second half of the day becomes very soggy.

172. Svetgar East via the North Edge (combined route, K. Tolstova, cat. 4B, fig. 24, 27). From the col between the North and East summits of Svetgar (route 171) go left and 200 m up destroyed rocks and a gently sloping snow-ice slope on the right side of the first rocky outcrop of the North Edge, then along moderately difficult rocks of the North Edge to a ledge. 1.5 hours from the col. From the ledge, along moderately difficult rocks, passing a shoulder, reach a snow-ice slope. Then go 300–400 m up a steep snow-ice slope-ridge with rock outcrops (covered crevasses, cornices) to below the second rocky outcrop of the North Edge. Below the second outcrop, at the boundary between ice and rock, go right. Then go 60–80 m up rocks of above-average difficulty («loose» stones) to a snow-ice slope. Then go 30–40 m along a steep snow-ice slope, then along rocks of above-average difficulty to below the Big Gendarme. From below the gendarme, 30–40 m to the right and along rocks of above-average difficulty with short difficult sections of a corner-couloir, 60–80 m up to a ledge behind the Big Gendarme. From the ledge, 150–200 m up a snow-ice slope, a ridge, and difficult rocks of the North Edge. Then go 280–300 m along the steep, sharp snow-ice (cornices) North Edge, overcoming II and III gendarmes head-on, and IV and V gendarmes, bypassing them on the right («loose» stones), to ascend to the summit of Svetgar East. 10–12 hours from the initial bivouac.