Routes

3. Via the left edge, 3rd cat. of diff., 3A
4. Via the right S.–3rd cat. of diff., 2B
5. Via the 3rd wall, 3B
6. Via the right 3rd cat. of diff., 3B
7. Via the right S.–3rd cat. of diff., 2A
8. Via the S. ridge

Via the left edge of the Western counterfort, 3A cat. of diff.

Begin the approach along the right tributary of the Uluun River, and after 5–7 minutes, having crossed the river, start ascending up and to the left along the slope towards a large wall at the beginning of the edge. Gradually, the steepness increases to 30°. From the base camp to the start of the route — 30 min.

Via the right edge of the central buttress of the Northwest wall, 3A cat. diff.

From the base camp, move along the right bank of the Oмот river towards the Northwest wall of Oмот peak. After 1 hour, start ascending via a couloir, keeping direction towards the right edge of the central buttress. The first uncomplicated rocks of the buttress are bypassed on the right, approaching the key section of the route — a 15-meter wall and a 25-meter chimney with a small cornice after it. Pass the wall from left to right; the chimney — head-on with a deviation to the right in its upper part. 5–7 meters of climbing up the wall with cracks, at the junction with a steep snowy couloir, it is recommended to set up a station. After 20 meters of careful climbing on ice-covered and moss-grown rocks, we reach the ridge of the buttress. Further:

• 40 meters of uncomplicated but steep ascent lead to a 5-meter wall,
• the wall is passed head-on with simultaneous bypassing of a gendarme on the ridge to the right. Passing the next two inclined slabs and the chimney between them requires attentiveness, as a fall can result in a significant drop. It is recommended to:
• ascend the chimney by 2–3 meters,
• then move to the right slab,
• moving right and upwards, reach uncomplicated rocks. After 100 meters of easy ridge movement, approach an inclined, ice-covered slab with an internal angle adjoining it on the right. It is necessary to overcome the slab, ascending as close to the angle as possible, using its overhanging parts for support and fractures for anchor points.

Federation of Alpinism of Russia

Report

On the ascent to Jannu peak (7710 m), Nepal, Himalayas, via the center of the North face, 6B cat. difficulty (approximately), by the team "Russian Path — Walls of the World", on May 26, 2004. Leader: Odintsov A.N. Participants:

• Totmyanin N.A.
• Ruchkin A.A.
• Mikhailov M.M.

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Aiguille du Midi via the route Eperon des Cosmiques Category 3B by the training department of the Polytechnic tourist club under the guidance of Molodozhen V. A. August 1, 2018

I. Ascent Report

| № | 1. General Information | |

Ascent Passport

Region – Subpolar Urals. Ridge – Narod-Ityinsky Ridge (kряж). Gorge – Bolshaya Lemva River Valley. Mountain massif – Parnokaiz. Section number according to KMGV-2001 – №8. "Other mountain systems, massifs". Name of the peak – 1194.7 (Parnokaiz Glavny). Height – 1194.7 m. Route name – via the central couloir of the southern slope and the southeastern ridge. First Ascent

Ascent Passport

1. Region: Subpolar Urals, Sablinsky Ridge.
2. Summit: Sablya (1497 m) Route "LADOGA" via the left part of the NNE wall from Gofman's Glacier.
3. Assumed 6B category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route character: rock.
5. Height difference of the route: 820 m, including the wall part: 570 m. Route length: 915 m, including wall part — 602 m. Length of sections: 5th category of difficulty – 165 m, 6th category of difficulty – 217 m. Average steepness:

Ascent Passport

1. Kola Peninsula. Khibiny mountain range. Otkol Cirque. Classification table section number: #8.6
2. Peak name — Poachvumchorr, 1095 m, to the bastion. Route name "PV".
3. Assumed — 4B cat. dif. First ascent.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Route elevation gain: 650 m by altimeter. Route length: 610 m. Length of sections with 5 cat. dif. — 45 m.
6. Pitons left on the route: total — 3; including bolted — 0. Total artificial climbing aids (ITOs) used: 0 points.

As­cent Pass­port

1. Kola Penin­sula. Khibiny mo­untain range. "Poyasov" Cirque. Section num­ber of the clas­si­fi­ca­tion ta­ble: №8.6
2. Name of the peak — Takhtarvumchorr — 1143 m, name of the route — "Down the cen­ter of the Poyasov wall".
3. Pro­posed — 6A cat. dif., first as­cent.
4. Na­ture of the route: rock.
5. Height dif­fer­ence of the route: 350 m (by al­ti­me­ter) Length of the route: 400 m. Length of sec­tions of V cat. dif. — 120 m, VI cat. dif. — 156 m. Av­er­age steep­ness: main part of the route — 88.5°, whole route — 83°. 6. Pitons left on the route: to­tal — 3; in­clud­ing bol­lard pitons — 2. Pitons used: sta­tio­nary bol­lard pitons: 2 pcs. To­tal ar­ti­fi­cial points of sup­port (APS) used: 105 points. Team's work­ing hours: 30 h.

Aiya — 3, 4

Author: Streltsov S., Sevastopol

Cape Aiya. The wall with a mark of 498.1 m, separating the Kazань-Dere tract and the "Lost World"

"Pour­quoi pas?" Route, cat. IV. Streltsov S., Volsky I. — 1986 (Variant I) cat. III–IV. Streltsov S., Streltsov M. — 2003 (Variant II)

Tactical Tips for Passing the Wall

I. Landing

Both route variants start from the water. In this regard, it is useful to follow the landing recommendations outlined in the descriptions of the "OBANA" route — 2001, "Piranha" — 2002 on the "Arfen" peak — 235.2 m. Variant I:

• Landing conditions are simple.

Mshatka-Kaya. Eastern bastion, variation of the route "Po uglu" 5A (V A1 240 m (5 pitches) t 5–7 h). E. Poltavets (Kharkov) and V. Makoed (Odessa) 2013. The line passes through the inner corner with a non-monolithic relief. The route is prone to rockfall. You can approach the start of the route from the left, like for route №?. There's also an option to approach via the couloir separating Mshatka-Kaya and Zamok: from the road, go up the scree path, overcome a несложную стенку and ascend towards the couloir separating the massifs. Then follow the couloir. The cork is bypassed on the left via rocks (10 m II). From the couloir:

• left and up to the ridge (30 m I),
• then right and up to a large tree at the base of the wall. After rain and during snowmelt, the couloir is prone to rockfall. Route description: