4. Climbing description

for an unnamed peak, named “Peak named after the XIV Congress of Komsomol” (3465 m) via the Southwest Ridge, cat. 2B. “Peak named after the XIV Congress of Komsomol” is located in a spur dividing the upper reaches of the Sakashil-Su and Khunaly-Chat gorges (the upper left tributary of Sakashil). The first ascent was made on March 31, 1962, during the alpinada of Komsomol members from Tyrnyauz in honor of the XIV Congress of Komsomol, by a group of 4 people led by Master of Sports Chikhradze G. A. Day 1 — approach. To the bivouac — the same as the approach for ascents to “Peak of Tyrnyauz Komsomol members” and “Peak named after the XXI Congress of CPSU.” Day 2 — from the bivouac, the path initially goes the same way as to “Peak of Tyrnyauz Komsomol members” — along the right (orographic) bank of the river, but then instead of ascending the slopes to the left, you need to enter the upper floodplain, turn right, cross the river, which usually branches into several small streams here, and ascend to the old terminal moraine of the Sakashil glacier. The ascent is via coarse scree.

338. Shtavler via the Southeast Ridge (route is combined, category 2A, fig. 32, 44). From the Nakra village upwards (to the west) through the forest, then across grassy slopes, further across scree to reach the areas under the ascent of the Eastern gendarme of the Southwest Ridge of Shtavler peak. Initial bivouac. From Nakra village 4–5 hours. From the areas, via easy simple snow-covered rocks of the Southeast ridge, ascent to the Eastern gendarme. From the gendarme, a simple descent onto a snowy plateau. Via simple destroyed snow-covered rocks of the Southeast ridge ascend to the summit of Shtavler. From the initial bivouac 4–5 hours.

Сер­гей Дидо­ра. http://4sport.ua/articles?id=28268 Description of the route to Shkhelda Peak via the South Ridge, category 4B, to the traverse (R. Gelbling, 1903). To Shkhelda Peak via the South Ridge, category 4B, to the traverse (R. Gelbling, 1903). From the horizontal part of the Ushba glacier, an ice-and-snow ascent leads to a nunatak. The rocks are bypassed on the left. There are platforms on the nunatak in case of bad weather. The height gain is 250 m — 1–2 hours. Approaching the rocks of the eastern slope of the South Ridge — 300 m — 20–50 minutes; category 2-3 difficulty. Ascending the rocks and moving upwards, choosing safe sections until the overnight stay below the gendarme — 700 m — 5–8 hours, category 3-3+ difficulty. Height gain is 700 m; Bypassing the gendarmes towards the South Ridge, traverse — 100 m — category 3 difficulty. Ascent via the couloir to the South Ridge — 120 m — category 3 difficulty.

84. Shkhelda Zapadnaya via the Western ridge from the North (Category II route). The path from the Shkhelda alpine camp to the saddle between Pik Profsoyuzov and Shkhelda Zapadnaya with the initial bivouac at "Aristov's overnight stay" is described in route 82. Group size: 4-20 people. The path from the saddle to the summit of Shkhelda Zapadnaya is described in route 85. Descent follows the ascent route. Duration of the route is 3 days. Required equipment:

• 4-5 ice axes
• Crampons for all participants

293. Shkhelda Zapadnaya — Shkhelda Vtoraya Zapadnaya (route is combined, O. Aristova, category 3B, fig. 32, 41). From Shkhelda Zapadnaya (point 290) descend to the saddle along the easy-to-pass, but destroyed Eastern ridge. Then, move along the easy-to-pass jagged ridge, overcoming gendarmes head-on (“live” rocks, belay), reach the saddle below the Western ridge of Shkhelda Vtoraya Zapadnaya. 1.5–2 hours from Shkhelda Zapadnaya peak. From the saddle, ascend along the easy-to-pass rocks of the Western ridge, overcoming gendarmes head-on, and move to the rocks of medium difficulty below the rocky ascent. Traverse the ascent from the right (rocks) along a steep ice-and-snow slope. Then,

Fig. 12 44. Sugantau via the Northeast ridge (combined route by V. Maslov, category 3A, fig. 12). The path from the "Nakhashbita" clearing (group of 4-8 people) to the rocky platforms at the base of the Eastern counterfort of the South ridge of Sugantau peak, under the right side of the Gulchi pass saddle is described in route 46. Without reaching the platforms, continue ascending the Doppakh glacier, following its left side, to the icefall in the upper part of the glacier, between the eastern slopes of Sugantau peak and the rocky island in the center of the glacier. Traverse the icefall between the crevices on its left side, following the slopes of Sugantau peak (belay). Beyond the icefall:

• across the closed plateau
• along the gentle snowy slopes of the glacier Reach the Sugan-2 pass saddle, located between Sugantau peak on the left and Uzlovaya Sugan peak on the right. From the glacier, overcoming the bergschrund, ascend 80-100 m up the steep ice-snow slope (possible rockfall - piton belay). Then, ascend the moderately difficult rocks resembling "ram's foreheads" ("live" rocks - piton belay) to reach the Sugan-2 pass. This is the initial bivouac. From the "Nakhashbita" clearing, 6-8 hours.

Fig. 12 45. Sugantau via the North Ridge (combined route by N. Misyura, Category 3B difficulty, Fig. 12). The path from the base camp (a group of 4–8 people) on the right bank of the Psygansu River, near the tongue of the Nakhashbita Glacier, to the initial bivouac on the snow plateau under the left side of the North Ridge of Sugantau is described in route 48. From the base camp — 3.5–4 hours. The approach path from the "Nakhashbita" clearing to the Sugan-2 pass is described in routes 46 and 44. From the Sugan-2 pass:

• descend a steep ice-and-snow slope, with a bergschrund in the lower part, to the upper plateau of the Eastern branch of the Sugan Glacier
• approach the initial bivouac under the left (eastern) side of the North Ridge of Sugantau across the plateau. From the plateau (departure at 3–4 am), bypassing the rocky outcrop at the base of the North Ridge of Sugantau from the left (east), turn right and ascend a gentle 150–160-meter ice-and-snow slope (with protection) to a saddle on the North Ridge. A possible bivouac site is available here. On the saddle, turn left and ascend:
• a gentle, straightforward, occasionally moderately difficult slope

Fig. 19 75. Taymazi — Glavnaya via East Ridge (combined route, category 2B difficulty, fig. 19). The path from the Taymazi meadow (group of 4-20 people) to the initial bivouac on the Taymazi pass is described in route 74. At the pass, turn right and approach the ascent of the East ridge of Glavnaya Taymazi peak. From under the ascent, descend to the right into a small snowy hollow. Traverse the hollow, bypassing the ascent, to reach the first snowy couloir descending from the East ridge. Here, turn left, overcome the bergschrund via a snow bridge, and ascend a steep 150-180-meter ice-snow, and in the upper part - scree, narrowing couloir to reach the East ridge. On the ridge, turn right and ascend simple rocks of the 90-100-meter East ridge ascent with wide ledges (belay) to reach the pre-summit shoulder. From the shoulder, ascend a straightforward snow-covered East ridge, bypassing a gendarme on the right (belay), to reach the summit of Glavnaya Taymazi. From the initial bivouac, 2.5-3 hours. Descent follows the ascent route. Route duration: 2 days. Source: Naumov A. F. Karaugom, Digoria, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.

Fig. 19 73. Taymaz Western peak ascent via North-East couloir and Western ridge (combined route by A. Rzhevsky, category III difficulty, fig. 19). The path from "Taymazi" meadow (group of 4-8 people) to the exit onto the Taymazi East glacier is described in route 72. Upon reaching the Taymazi East glacier (closed crevasses), cross it, avoiding crevasses, upwards to the right under the North ridge - a spur of the Tsentralnaya Taymazi peak, separating the Taymazi East and Taymazi West glaciers. From the Taymazi East glacier, overcome the bergschrund via a snow bridge, then ascend a steep avalanche-prone slope, followed by a snow slope, and further up - a simple, fragmented rocky couloir to reach the broad North ridge - a spur of Tsentralnaya Taymazi. The ridge serves as the initial bivouac site. The journey from "Taymazi" meadow takes 5-6 hours. From the bivouac, descend from the ridge onto the snow plateau of the Taymazi West glacier and traverse it (closed crevasses), avoiding crevasses to the left, to approach a steep snow couloir descending northeast from the Western ridge and the North counterfort of Taymazi West. From the plateau, overcome the wide bergschrund in the center via a snow bridge, then ascend directly up the 500-600-meter ice-and-snow couloir (possible rockfall from the left walls - belay) and through a steep ice gorge (pitched belay) to reach the right side of the first pinnacle on the Western ridge of Taymazi West.

204. Kayarta Glavnaya via the South Ridge (Category 1B route). The path from the "Adylsu" alp camp to the Shternberg Pass through the Tyutyusu gorge is described in routes 184 and 203. From the pass, turn left and exit onto the rocky South Ridge of Kayarta Glavnaya peak. From here, ascend simple and solid ridge rocks. Bypass the first 30-meter-high gendarme on the right (belay!). Beyond it:

• ascend the severely damaged simple rocky ridge,
• then traverse along the right snowy slope to reach the rocky edge of the South shoulder,
• ascend 50–60 m up the moderately difficult rocks of the edge. Then: