Ascent Record

I. Technical Climbing Category. 2. Dombay Region, North-West Caucasus. 3. German Comsomol Peak, ~3600 m, from Belalakaysky Glacier. 4. Category of difficulty — 2A. 5. The route is combined, with a height difference from the glacier of ~1000 m. 6. Belay — without pitons. 7. Number of climbing hours from the moraine bivouac: ascent 5–6 hours, descent — 3 hours. 8. Training group: Starikov G.A. — 1st sports category, instructor Kruchikov Yu. — III, Koblyakov V. — III, Rakhmatov R. — III, Galimyanov N. — III

Fig. 54

1. Ascent to the summit of Bolshoy Bu-Ulgen (3915 m) via the east wall — Category 4B difficulty (Fig. 54)

From Dombay plain to the Northern refuge by car. From the Northern refuge, across the river Hokel via a log, and then to the Chotcha glade — bivouac. From the bivouac:

• Up the snowy slope towards the second eastern ridge of Bolshoy Buulgen
• Further ascent predominantly along the ridge to the first shoulder via steep (50–55°), местами за­рос­шим тра­вой ска­лам (стра­хов­ка!)
• After traversing 80–90 m along the ridge shoulder, descend to the right onto the glacier (крю­чьевая страховка!) — 40 m rappel and through the randkluft to exit onto the glacier

1. Class — technical.
2. North Caucasus, Aксаут gorge.
3. Peak Yuzhnye Bratcy via left eastern counterfort.
4. Proposed — Category 2B difficulty, first ascent.
5. Height difference — 600 m, length — 880 m. The average steepness of the route is 45°; maximum steepness in areas — up to 70°.
6. Pitons were not left on the route.
7. Climbing hours on the route — II.
8. Overnight stays on the route — none.
9. Leader: Timonin Sergey Nikolayevich, 2nd sports category.

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Malaya Belalakaya 3748 m via the center of the northern wall, made by a group of instructors from the "Alibek" alpine camp.

Group composition:

1. Abarbachuk Georgiy Samuilovich, Candidate Master of Sports, 2nd category instructor-methodologist.
2. Boyko Viktor Viktorovich, Candidate Master of Sports, 2nd category instructor-methodologist. Head of the training department — Master of Sports of the USSR Kovalenko Yuriy Ivanovich DOMBAY 1982

I. Climbing category

• Rock

2. Climbing region

• Western Caucasus from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass

3. Peak, route

• Belalakaya (Smaller) from Belalakaysky pass

4. Proposed category difficulty

• 3B

5. Route characteristics:

• Combined

Fig. 18

1. Ascent to the summit of Zadnaya Belalakaya (3740 m) — category 2A difficulty (fig. 18, A)

From Dombay plain across the bridge over the Alibek river and along the trail to the stream, descending from the large Belalakaya couloir. Cross the stream to the snowfield and ascend 300–350 m up. Then left into the Sofrujinsky couloir (rockfall hazard!) and up along it to a large overhanging rock. Further left-up along the steep section of the couloir to the trail and along it to the Medvezhья (Bear) clearing. From the Medvezhья clearing, first through alpine meadows (trail), then through snow and 300–350 m along the eastern slopes of Belalakaya to the Sofrujinsky bivouac. From Dombay plain 5–6 hours. From the bivouac (in rope teams!) along the Sofrujinsky glacier to the north-eastern ridge of Zadnaya Belalakaya. Exit to the ridge from the right in the lower part (bergschrund, protection!) and further to the right — up to the ridge saddle. From the saddle directly along the destroyed and loose rocks of the ridge to a ledge and along it to a couloir. Up the couloir to two rock outcrops left of the ridge inflection and exit to the ridge. Along the right side of the ridge up to the second outcrop of the crest. Behind it — to a wide couloir, then up to the ridge inflection and along the right side of the crest — exit to the summit.

• From the bivouac: 3–4 hours
• The entire route is rockfall hazardous!

Climbing Report on Mt. Belalakaia (3851 m), located in the area of the Main Caucasian Range and its spurs from Marukh Pass to Nakhar Pass, via the Western Counterfort, Category 4B (tentative)

I. The route was first ascended in 1972 by a group from the "Alibek" tourist camp, consisting of:

1. Grigorenko-Prigoda Yu.I. — Master of Sports of the USSR
2. Shumikhin V.S. — Master of Sports of the USSR On July 12-13, 1974, a group from the "Alibek" tourist camp made the ascent, consisting of:
3. Bondarev V.M. — Category I sportsman — team leader
4. Kokodii N.G. — Category I sportsman
5. Mishustin A.G. — Category I sportsman II. Brief geographical description of the ascent area Mt. Belalakaia (3851 m) is located in the Western Caucasus, on a spur of the Main Caucasian Range branching north from the peak Zadnaya Belalakaia. The black rocky pyramid of Belalakaia is encircled by several white quartz bands.

Route to the summit of Belalakaya via the Eastern ridge, cat. 4–5

Route to the summit of Belalakaya via the Eastern ridge, cat. 4Б

Mt. Belalakaya, 3861 m. 120 m, 20°, 1. 40 m, 70°, +4. 20 m, 30°, –2. 80 m, 60°, 3. 80 m, 60°, –4.

Report

On the ascent of the Karachay-Cherkess Republic team to the summit of Belalakaya Main 3861 m.

via the Eastern ridge through the chimney. 4B cat. diff. (variant) Presumably IV B cat. diff. Semenov M. A. – CMS (Candidate for Master of Sports) team leader Bogdanova M. V. – 2nd sports category experience Alpclub – Mountain Madness

2. Caucasus

2.2 From Marukh pass to Nakhar pass.

Participants of the ascent