Triangle — 9

Authors: Bublik Sergey, Shimko Nikolay, Ukraine. Photos: Shimko Yu., Komlyk Yu., Vasilyeva N.

A new route in Crimea on Triangle peak

The route is dedicated to our friend Masha Khitrikova...

New route in Crimea on g. Tre­уголь­ник — «So­ko­li­naya okhota» 4А

First ascent 2013: Dmitriy Lesnoy, Viktor Reyzner (Kherson)

About the route «So­ko­li­naya okhota» 4А (preliminary).

The route is located to the right of the bastion, where the route "Gendalf Seryy" 4А is laid. The upper large part of the route passes along a not ярко expressed ridge. It was expected to be 2А–3А, but it turned out to be more difficult due to several sections of 6а–6а+ at the beginning. The entire route was climbed freely, with free climbing. The relief is generally monolithic, there were not many loose rocks, and those we removed from the wall, so it is now not prone to rockfall. In two places, we had to approach trees through a couple of meters of lush vegetation (R1 and R6), a first ascent, after all. The line of the route is logical, it goes exactly where you want to go. The main difficulties are at the beginning, on the 1st and 2nd ropes. All stations are on trees; we didn't drill bolt holes, only hammered in 1 piton when transitioning to the right after R1, because there was nothing to place there.

About the name

On the 6th rope, while leading, I heard desperate cries of birds above. Deciding that the falcons were возмущались at our approach, I began to calm them down aloud and promised that we wouldn't touch anything. After a few seconds, they approached, and I realized that two falcons were hunting a smaller bird, which was crying. And right in front of me, at a distance of about eight meters in the air, a scene unfolded that I had only seen in documentaries:

New route in Crimea on g. Treugolnik — “Gendalf Seryy” 4A

The bastion to the left of Treugolnik's main wall. Maybe it was climbed before, but it's not in the classifier and there are no descriptions anywhere. On the route, we didn't find any hooks or drill holes, nor any signs of previous passage. The first time we came with the intention to make a first ascent, we were unlucky with the weather — it was raining. So, we decided to just scout the approaches and get as close as possible to examine and photograph everything.

Gora Treugolnik, route “Gendalf Seryy” 4A

First ascent (2011): Dmitry Lesnoy, Maxim Berezhnoy (Kherson)

It turned into a whole reconnaissance expedition in harsh conditions :). We had never been under Treugolnik before, but knew it was possible to approach from the quarry. We decided to head straight to the bastion from the road through the forest, and return via the quarry to compare these two approach options. The second option, through the quarry, turned out to be much more convenient and readable. The second time, the decision to climb this route was practically spontaneous, the weather was favorable, and we completed it as a two-person team in 10 hours without using any technical equipment or hanging belays — everything was done on-sight by both participants.

Approach

Sokol Peak — «Time Machine» 6A

A new route «Time Machine» 6A has been completed on Sokol Peak (Crimea, Sudak). The route length is 390 m. It took more than a week to complete the first ascent with breaks for New Year holidays and rest days. The climb started on December 29, 2011, and finished on January 11, 2012. Route authors:

• Sergey Pugachev
• Sergey Nadtochiy

Technical description of the route

R0–R1: II, 20 m, 55°, F5a; The start of the route is at the base of an inclined slab, moving towards a large juniper tree. Station on a tree. R1–R2: VI, 50 m, 80°, A2, e4, (four bolts). From the station after the tree, move left to an overhanging crack, then up through it. After the second bolt, climb left onto a destroyed slab (ignore the separate lying boulder) — climb to the right. After the bolt, move left to a vertical crack and continue up it to the station.

Sokol - 35

Khokhol's Route via Ryzyi Karniz 5B (6A?)

Climbed by Alexander Kruglenko in 1980-1989. The difficulty is somewhat high for a 5B grade. The start is about 50 meters to the left of "Brovi". Between "Brovi" and Ryzyi Karniz, a black streak is visible from the road in the lower third of the wall. To its right are two internal corners (gullies). The route follows the second one. The first bolts are visible from below (their condition is normal). After reaching the ledge below "Brovi", move left. At the beginning of the route, several loose slabs are carried to the wall. The first bolt is visible about 10 meters up. R1 - From the lower slab (standing), move up towards the bolt (pitons, skyhooks, small nuts). Up via bolts, then left to a crack (skyhook). Up the crack to a small cave on aid climbing (pitons), with some free climbing sections (medium-sized nuts). From the cave, up (a hole for a skyhook, then standing), through a damaged crack (loose rocks, a standing position along the way) to a belay station (a bolt and a "carrot"). R1 45 m 85° VI A3 (the grade might be subjective and the actual difficulty lower). R2 - Continue up through a cornice on slabs (bolts), then right to cracks and up them to a ledge. R2 40 m 80° V+. From R2, due to lack of time, we went right to R2 of the "Gran'" route. Attention! The route's continuation is described very approximately. From R2, left to a thin crack, up it. Then, after passing a series of cornices, approach Ryzyi Karniz. It is climbed in its right part via a crack. Alternative: From R2, traverse right 40-45 meters along the ledge, which turns into a crack, to R2 of the "Gran'" route. The difficulty is about IV. Then follow "Gran'", or, continuing the traverse right, reach "Brovi" (about 15 meters).

Crimea, Sokol mountain. "Ryžiĭ kar­niz" (Red Cornice) route, 5B. (author: Lishaev Yu. "Fantik"), cat. difficulty 5B The route has a variation — the first one and a half ropes follow the "Vos'merka" (Eight) route, and then a transition via bolts to the third rope of the "Bol'shoĭ kar­niz" (Big Cornice). Approaching the route "Ryžiĭ kar­niz" route R0–R1: 50–55 m 6B, first 12 m up a diagonal crack to the right with self-belay, then a delicate traverse to the right onto a resonant "nashlyopka" (overhanging rock formation), then via bolts, belay station on a ledge on one bolt and one piton. R1–R2: 45 m 5c+, move up and left towards a crack, protection mostly pitons (watch out for moss!), belay station on two bolts in a corner. R2–R3: 40 m 6a+ (sometimes A1), protection on pitons and bolts, belay station under a large cornice on a bolt? (either one or two). "Ryžiĭ kar­niz" route (sections R2–R3 and R3–R4) "Ryžiĭ kar­niz" route (sections R2–R3 and R3–R4) R3–R4: 25–30 m 6b+ (or A2–), protection on large nuts and bolts, belay station on a plateau on a small tree. Recommended equipment:

• 50 m rope

New route on Sokol "AlisA" 5B

In Crimea (Sudak region) on Sokol mountain between "Vos'merka" and "Ryzhiy Ugol" routes a new route "AlisA" 5B has appeared. Sokol mountain (Sudak) The "AlisA" route is 160 m long from R0. The start of the route is the same as the R0 station of "Ryzhiy Ugol". On the wall, there is an inscription "AlisA". You need to go through a vertical slit - a groove above the inscription.□

Thread of the "AlisA" route

R1, R2, R3 stations are equipped with rappel rings. R4 station is on a plateau - a tree. The route is thoroughly cleaned of loose rocks and flakes. The route is recommended for well-prepared climbers in technical and psychological terms.

• relief skyhooks
• hole skyhooks
• vertical and horizontal cams
• topo guides in sufficient quantity

Sokol. "Pesnya" (Lebedinaya pesnya / Swan Song) route 5B (V+ A2 188 m), 5 pitches. First ascent: A. Kruglenko (Feodosiya) — A. Paksyutkin (Simferopol), 2007. The start of the route is from the large starting ledge as described for routes №31–38 (according to the guidebook) of Sector II. Routes of the Central Sector of Sokol

Technical description of the route:

• R0–R1: (48 m, V+ A1+) From the starting ledge, the first few meters follow the bolts of the "Vos'merka / Eight" route, then move up, bypassing the bulge shaped like an "eight" on the right. Above the bulge, use the corners and cracks to reach a plate and follow it to an inclined, overgrown corner (anchors, pitons, "carrot" left by the authors). Set up a belay station in the corner on your own protection points.
• R1–R2: (45 m, V+ A2) Move up through the plate to the base of an overgrown crack, then up the crack for 18 m. From here, move left "to 11 o'clock" across the plate to a small ledge. There is little relief for protection. Protection:

"The Final Stroke" (5b).

We made the first attempt to climb the route with Max Polyakov in winter 2009, but various reasons prevented us from completing it. We removed the ropes and left. Now, on April 1 and 2, Sanya Khomenko and I finished the route. Description by sections: the route starts from the same ledge as "Vosemorka", "Pesnya", "Khokhol cherez zerkala", and goes between "Pesnya" and "Khokhol". The beginning is easy to read; there is a bolt 8 meters above the ledge. Sokol, "The Final Stroke" route (5B). The route line is highlighted in blue. High-resolution photo 0–1 A small approach, then onto the bolts to a piton, from it up to the right to a crack with grass. Up through a series of cracks, sometimes on a slab. Belay station on a bolt and a hook. 40 m, A3. From the station, it's recommended to climb to the next bolt without accepting the belay to reduce the fall factor. 1–2 Up to the right on a slab with cavities (anchors, skyhooks), get over the bend, then on a more gentle slab to the station. There's a bolt. 35 m, VI, A3. 2–3 From the station, up to the left through an overgrown crack for about 10 meters, then ITO on the slab in the direction up to the left to a sloping ledge. On it, a station — a bolt and an anchor. 40 m, VI, A3. 3–4 From the station, 4 meters up to the left, then up on the slab to a small ledge, up to the right to the second ledge. From its left part, up through a series of cracks. Station on a bolt. 35 m, VI, A3. 4–5 From the station, up to the left, then up into an internal corner formed by the edge of a large flake and a wall. Up the corner, then up to the right under a small cornice. Through the cornice up to the right, then traverse to the right onto a ledge. Station on a bolt and a hook. 35 m, V, A3.

So­kol — 29

Ho­hla po ze­re­ka­lam 5B cat. dif.[№14]

(A. Kruglenko, aka «Ho­hol») Ho­hla po ze­re­ka­lam 2nd rope R0–R1: 50 m, 6B, A1. Up the crack through a characteristic tree, then up left to a neat traverse left to a piton. After it — a tricky move (hole). Station on a bollard and pitons. R1­–­R2: 50­–­55 ­m, 6B, A1. Up and slightly left via a system of cracks to a bollard, through it — exit to a flattening, then right up a neat traverse