Author: Aleksandra Lavrinenko, Odessa

Changes on Forosskiy Kant

On Per'ya route 5A (left variant):

1st rope - there were 8 old pitons, half of them had torn off ears. 3 new bolts were driven in the right places. A station was made on 2 × bolts, a ledge near a tree. 2nd rope - a station was drilled on a ledge near a tree. 3rd rope - a piton was replaced at the station, another one was added. 4th rope - pitons were replaced, 3 were driven instead of 4. A station was drilled near a small pine (previously it was on a pine). Further the route goes out to the kant, there are stations.

On the left side of the southeast wall and the western counterfort (Feathers), 5a *)

The route starts 60 m to the right of the western counterfort and passes:

• in the lower part — along a steep and smooth wall;
• in the upper part — along the western counterfort (Edge), transitioning to it through a chain of several spalls, named Feathers due to their external resemblance. (R0: 200 m, 20–30, no rope). On the section R1–R3 — upwards through a narrow vertical gap. Climbing is challenging (R1–R3: 70 m, 80°, V+). On the section R3–R4 — left and upwards first along the wall, and then 10 m along a chimney formed by the lower spall of the Feather to a shelf with a tree (R3–R4: 30 m, 75°,

Via the Western Counterfort (Kant) on the right, 5a (variant 5b) *

The route goes via the Western counterfort (Kant). Its beginning is on the right side of the counterfort base, 20 m to the right of the grotto (R0: 150 m, 20–300, no technical difficulty). On the R1–R3 section, there is challenging climbing along a 70-meter large cleft:

• R1–R3: 70 m, 85°, V+ On the R3–R4 section — upwards and leftwards along rocks of medium difficulty to the "Lapa" flake (R3–R4: 40 m, 70–600, III). On the R4–R5 section — upwards to "Lapa" from the left. First, through the cleft between "Lapa" and the wall. In the upper part, the cleft turns into a chimney (R4–R5: 40 m, 85°,

Along the western counterfors (Edge) from the left (edge to edge), 5a *) (by A. Grishkevich and V. Volkodav, 1970)

The route begins at the base of the couloir descending from the Green inner corner. Initially, move up along the talus and simple rocks towards the steep wall. In its left part, find a sheer crack (R0: 200 m, 30°, easy). On the R1–R2 section — first up the crack, and then slightly to the right (R1–R2: 20 m, 80°, V; 20 m, 75°, IV). On the R2–R3 section — first up along the chip, and then to the right of two overhanging bastions (R2–R3: 40 m, 70°, III). On the R3–R4 section — slightly to the left, and then up the chimney with trees into the "bowl" under the Green inner corner. Then to the right towards a large 40-meter ledge on the counterfors resembling a paw, which is how it got its name (R3–R4: 80 m, 60–70°, III). On the R4–R5 section — up onto the Paw from the left. Initially along the crack between the Paw and the wall. In the upper part, the crack turns into a chimney (R4–R5: 40 m, 85°, V+). On the R5–R6 section — from the Paw, initially 5 m up the steep wall, and then two options. A relatively new one — up to the bolted route and along it 20 m up the sheer slab. The old one — to the right towards an old bolted route with rusty and partially broken ears. However, it's still possible to climb by using a rope thrown over the broken bolts for insurance. Along it, 20 m to the left and up (R5–R6: 35 m, 85°, V+). On the R6–R9 sections — initially up, and then traverse to the right under the overhanging wall to a large pine tree. From it:

• left and up,

Author: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa

Forosskiy kant. Routes of the "Green corner"

At the end of January, we (Alexander Lavrinenko and Sergey Pugachev) climbed a new route in the left part of the Forosskiy kant, along the left edge of the "Green corner". The route looks so logical that it's surprising it wasn't climbed earlier. In the very corner, human tracks are visible, but whether it was completed to the top - I don't know; at least, I saw 2 rappel loops. The route starts at the same point as the left variant of the Kant, and goes left; the 2-grade route goes even further left. 125 ± 2 m, 5B, TD "along the left edge" Pugachev, Lavrinenko 35A TD - Timofeev's route

On the right side of the «green corner», 5a (route by V. Timofeev, 1981)

The western part of the massif and the most complex southeastern wall are separated by a large internal corner, descending from the summit plateau and named Green due to the moss covering it. The route starts at the base of the couloir descending from the Green internal corner. From the alpinist camps, proceed about 150 m towards Baydarskie Vorota until the beginning of the ascent to the Green corner. From the road, start moving up the scree towards the steep wall (R0: 100 m, 30°, easy). On the section R1–R2 — overcome a small wall, move right along the ledge to the large internal corner, turning into a sheer chimney on the left side of the slab. Up the slab to the top of the outcrop:

"To the left of Kant" 4B

The beginning — 3 ropes are shared with KPK and 4A "To the left of the Green corner" — stations are drilled, because in these areas it is possible to accumulate several teams. R4–R5 — the station was on a small tree, inconvenient. Hammered in 2 hammers. R5–R6 — added a hanger to the one that was already there. R6–R7 — near a tree, made a station on a ledge with 2 hangers. The route further leads to KPK.

On the left side of the western counterfort, 4b

The western part of the massif and the most complex southeastern wall are separated by a large internal corner, descending from the summit plateau and named Zelyony (Green) due to the moss covering it. The route begins at the base of the couloir descending from the Zelyony internal corner. From the climbers' parking lot, walk about 150 m towards Baydarskie Vorota until the start of the ascent to the Zelyony corner. From the road, start moving up the talus slope towards a steep wall (R0: 100 m, 30°, easy). On the R1–R2 section — overcoming a small wall, move right along a shelf to a large internal corner turning into a sheer chimney on the left side of a pillar. Up it to the top

Foros kant — 7

Along the left side of the "green corner", 4a (20 m, V) (route by A. Brynza, 1991)

The western part of the massif and the most complex southeastern wall are separated by a large internal corner, descending from the summit plateau and called Green due to the moss covering it. The route starts at the base of the couloir, descending from the Green inner corner. From the alpine camps, walk about 150 m towards Baydarskie Vorota until the beginning of the ascent to the Green corner. From the road, start moving up the scree towards the steep wall. Having overcome a small wall, move right along the shelf to the large inner corner located on the

Foros kant — 1. "Papa Carlo"

Massif: Foros kant (600 m); Grade: 3B, V; Author: A. Kuzmenko, V. Razuvaev; Year of route creation: 2005; Number of pitches: 7; Length: 355 m; Time to complete: 3–5 hours The route goes through a standalone bastion in the western part of the massif. Logical, but uneven. The key pitch is clearly "five". The start of the route is at the base of the corner - a couloir that limits the counterfort on the left. R0–R1 50 m. Up the couloir, then along the internal corner, from the corner move to the right wall, and exit to a ledge. There's a tree on the ledge, but it's better to set up a station on your own anchors above, under the start of the next pitch. 50 m III R1–R2 50 m. Up the crack, then along the internal corner, climbing is difficult, there are 2 drill holes. In the upper part of the corner - traverse 5 m to the left, and exit to a large tree via a crack. Station. (Key pitch. The entire crack is suitable for medium and large placements, and medium friends) (50 m V) R2–R3 30 m. From the station, up and to the right into the internal corner. 5 m of difficult climbing in the corner, then it becomes easier - climb up to a tree. (5 m V, 25 m II–III) R3–R4 50 m. Up through несложным internal corners to a ledge with trees. II R4–R5 50 m. Up to a ledge, then up, without going left, station on a large tree. III R5–R6 25 m. From the tree up along the internal corner, exit to a forested ledge. II