Sha­an-Ka­ya — 3

Author: Alex­ander Za­ko­lod­ny, Khark­ov.

2012 © — new route on Sha­an-Ka­ya, 6A

Sha­an-Ka­ya is that, lately: base jumpers, rope access... attracts unusual mountains. Long winter, r line on the summit, after which... goal of Grishchenko to me with visiting the museum since the times of Zenit. As a partner I g, helped me to dry. The route passes left. On the march pulls! In these rock climbers, these people... grief and around looked straight crack left, gi m-t. or, as later i shlyambura). l initiative and

Shaan-Kaya — 13

Author: Alexander Maximenia, Minsk Crimea. Shaan-Kaya. Solo Shaan-Kaya is located not far from Alupka. The mountain rises 250–300 m in the middle of a pine forest. The landscape is unreal and mesmerizing. Under the wall, there are piles of huge boulders. Among this chaos, there's a cozy grotto where I settled and became a caveman for this week. March 12. Arrived in Crimea. By evening, I reached the mountain and settled in the grotto near the wall, which was not visible in the fog. March 13. The weather improved. The sun is shining. I'm testing my gear and nerves on the old bolted route in the center of the wall. The route was drilled about forty years ago by Yalta residents when attempting to pass the wall, and it's well-preserved for its age. After 70 m, it ends, and I rappel down. March 14. Climbed to the second belay on Hyperborea. Checking every move, I creep up the wall — not just moving, but literally creeping. There's no one around, and every wrong decision can have unpredictable consequences. March 15. Ascended via the fixed rope and climbed further

Shaan-Kaya — 12. "Synthesis of Consciousness"

Massif: Shaan-Kaya (985 m) Complexity: 5B, VI, A1 Author: A. Geniush, Kudryavtsev Year of route creation: 2008 Number of pitches: 7 Length: 300 m Time to complete: 4–6 hours Total length of the route is 213 m, suggested complexity category is 5B. R0–R1 (42 m, A2, f 6b) — The route starts between the "Arsenal" and "Maximen" routes, among the ivy, a crack for anchors and medium-sized stoppers begins. Move up the crack towards a small pine tree, then tackle a slight overhang in its central part, where a crack leads under the small pine. After the tree, ascend 10 m on anchors and stoppers to reach the belay station, which is set on two anchors. R1–R2 (38 m, A2, f 6B) — From the station, shift 1 m left and upwards to a vertical crack, then move up through it towards an internal corner. The corner is well-passed using medium and large cams and stoppers. The corner leads to a narrow horizontal ledge that goes left. Traverse 6 m along the ledge; there are 2 anchors on the traverse. From the anchors, lower slightly to the station, which is set on 2 anchors. The traverse itself is not complicated and is relatively safe. R2–R3 (35 m, A3, f-7a) — The next pitch starts with a beautiful flake forming a small internal corner with the main wall. Ascend 8–10 m through this corner to a sloping ledge. From the sloping ledge, move through an overhang with a small internal corner to a large internal corner. On the overhang, there are 2 intermediate bolts:

• To the 1st anchor, ascend via the small internal corner on small, partially driven anchors.
• To reach the 2nd anchor, use large skyhooks (3 pcs.).

Shaan-Kaya — 11

Author: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa Alexander Lavrinenko Shaan-Kaya is located in the Alupka area. It is not part of the Southern ridge, but is jutting out to the sea, in front of the Alupka wall. The wall height difference is about 250 m. In the central part, the wall overhangs. There are 6 routes laid on the wall (Note: as of December 2001, 8 routes have been completed), all 6B category. To get under Shaan-Kaya, you need to:

• Reach Alupka "Pitomnik" stop

Shaan-Kaya — 9

Author: Alexander Lav­rin­enko, Odesa Shaan-Kaya is located near Alupka. It is not part of the South Ridge, but is protruded towards the sea, in front of the Alupka wall. The wall's height difference is about 250 m. In the central part, the wall overhangs. There are 6 routes laid on the wall (Note: as of December 2001, 8 routes have been climbed), all are of 6th category of difficulty. Alexander Lav­rin­enko To get to Shaan-Kaya, you need to:

• Get to the Alupka "Pitomnik" stop
• From there, go up the road
• Pass through the vineyards
• Get on a dirt road, which leads practically under the wall Water is available at a spring within 15 minutes walk from the wall.

Route №12 “Zub”

(D. Popov, A. Shelkhakov, 1999) 5B V+ A2 345 m (10 pitches). Average completion time — 5–7 hours. A long and infrequently visited route. Some intermediate pitons are unreliable. Navigate through the boulder field to reach the base of a massive chimney-fissure. Follow the wall to the right, towards the flake “Zub”. The route starts on the large flake “Zub” leaning against the wall. From the top of the flake, the route transitions to the main wall, then to a large ledge. From the left part of the ledge, the route goes up through a series of internal corners. The exit to the yayla is via a piton traverse through an overhang. R0–R1: 35 m. Up the monolithic wall on the left side of “Zub” to the right, towards a tree. Pitons are present. Belay station on a tree. 35 m V+. R1–R2: 20 m. Up the slab, exit to a gentler slope. Belay station on a tree. 20 m V+ A1. R1–R2: 20 m. Up the slab, exit to a gentler slope. Belay station on a tree. 20 m V+ A1. R2–R3: 20 m. Descend into a gap between “Zub” and the main wall. Swing pendulum-style to the wall and reach the belay station. 20 m.

11

Chelebi (657 m). Scolopendra

Massif: Chelebi (657 m) Difficulty: 5B Author: Lavrinenko A., Polyakov M. Route description:

• 0–1 Start — behind a large rock standing near the wall, upwards through cracks, in the direction of a large tree, the rightmost one. Near the tree — a belay station, a comfortable ledge. 27 m IV 2–3 Upwards through a system of corners, climbing + ITO, there are holes for skyhooks, 2 bolts, exit onto a destroyed ledge, here is a bolt. From it, upwards to the right, careful climbing, to a tree. On the tree, a belay station.
• 50 m

Chelebi — 8

Author: Alexander Lav­ri­nen­ko, Odessa Che­le­bi, Crimea. Descriptions of alpinist routes The Che­le­bi massif is located in the western part of the Main ridge of the Crimean mountains, between the "Bai­dar­skie vo­ro­ta" pass and the Il'­yas-Ka­ya mountain. Relative height 200 m, absolute height 600 m above sea level. Despite the relatively low height, 5 routes of 5th and 6th category of difficulty pass through the central part of the wall. The routes are very popular (e.g., Bershov's route, there are several ascents per day). Descent from the wall is possible both from the left and the right. The left path (if looking towards the sea) is shorter:

• Follow the yayla along the cliff towards the Bai­dar­skie vo­ro­ta for about 600–700 m.
• Near the descent couloir, there is a group of trees.
• Down the steep scree, then right along the wall.

Chelebi — 7

Author: Aleksandr Lav­ri­nen­ko, Odessa Che­le­bi, Crimea. Descriptions of alpinist routes The Che­le­bi massif is located in the western part of the Main Ridge of the Crimean Mountains, between the "Bai­dar­skie vo­ro­ta" pass and the Il'­yas-Ka­ya mountain. The relative height is 200 m, the absolute height is 600 m above sea level. Despite the relatively low height, 5 routes of 5th and 6th category of difficulty have been laid through the central part of the wall. The routes are very popular (for example, the Ber­shov route, there can be several ascents per day). Descent from the wall is possible both from the left and from the right. The left path (if looking towards the sea) is shorter:

• Follow the yaila along the cliff towards the Bai­dar Gates for about 600–700 m.
• Near the descent couloir, there is a group of trees.
• Down the steep scree, then right along the wall.