Shaan-Kaya — 13

Author: Alexander Maximenia, Minsk

Crimea. Shaan-Kaya. Solo

Shaan-Kaya is located not far from Alupka. The mountain rises 250–300 m in the middle of a pine forest. The landscape is unreal and mesmerizing. Under the wall, there are piles of huge boulders. Among this chaos, there's a cozy grotto where I settled and became a caveman for this week.

March 12. Arrived in Crimea. By evening, I reached the mountain and settled in the grotto near the wall, which was not visible in the fog.

March 13. The weather improved. The sun is shining. I'm testing my gear and nerves on the old bolted route in the center of the wall. The route was drilled about forty years ago by Yalta residents when attempting to pass the wall, and it's well-preserved for its age. After 70 m, it ends, and I rappel down.

March 14. Climbed to the second belay on Hyperborea. Checking every move, I creep up the wall — not just moving, but literally creeping. There's no one around, and every wrong decision can have unpredictable consequences.

March 15. Ascended via the fixed rope and climbed further

The iron ends quickly, so I constantly have to downclimb and remove it from under myself. I'm stretching my 110 m of rope. It was enough just above the third belay. Now, down to rest. Tomorrow: hammock in hand, and forward.

March 16. Took with me:

• two liters of water
• two hundred grams of chocolate

I planned to climb with one overnight on the wall. I dropped the lower rope. While passing the large internal angle — a ledge (4th rope), I saw bats in the crevices, which were continuously squeaking. However, they didn't show aggression towards me or my friend.

Reached the end of the fifth rope. Here, there's the only ledge on the route where you can stand or sit, and there's a sign: Chairs and sofas must be comfortable. After hanging another 30 meters of rope, I rappelled to the ledge, hung my hammock-sofa, and settled in for the night.

It's cold to sleep, but not below zero. The weather has deteriorated — fog, possibly with rain or snow. But the wall is heavily overhanging, and the precipitation doesn't reach me — that's a relief. I'm listening to music and even sleeping periodically.

March 17. Finished the last chocolate — and forward. Along the way, I was pleased with the sign at the end of the seventh rope: "Mandarin ducks bring good luck in love" — took note and climbed further.

The eighth rope is, perhaps, the critical point. Until I passed it, there was no certainty that I would complete the route. The most challenging moment:

• bolt
• skyhook
• 2nd skyhook
• hook
• fall (5 m)

Reached the upper point. The hole for the skyhook was chipped during the fall. But I managed to reach from the lower skyhook to the crevice and hammer in a nut. Barely breathing — I exited, it held.

Centimeter by centimeter, I crept further. When passing the last five meters at the end of the eighth rope, I encountered an unusual natural phenomenon — when fingers start to unclench on their own — but managed to save myself.

While slowly descending — behind my back. It was getting dark, and there was one rope left to the top, but there was no choice — hung the hammock and to sleep. Wet snow is falling, but it barely reaches me.

March 18. Slowly — slowly gathered and started moving. At the exit to the "garden," the route ends with a "coil," i.e., not steep rocks without a clear relief. When it's wet — it's very sharp. I also had to unroll 60 meters on wet and slippery "ogodas" (ledge). Fog, rain — visibility is about 50 meters. On the descent, I had to search for my "home." Squeezed out like a lemon.

March 19. Resting. I think Hyperborea is the most interesting route in Crimea for now. The entire route:

• is overhanging
• goes diagonally

which adds sharpness, especially when going solo. The tension doesn't subside throughout the route; there are no easy sections. For beauty, I tied a yellow cord at the belays.

March 20. Gathering my things and leaving this paradise corner.