Jailyk via NW buttress (K. Tolstov's route, cat. 5A) The routes along the NW buttress and N wall start from the Tyutyusu gorge, which explains their low traffic; however, for winter conditions, the routes on the northern aspect of Jailyk are more preferable due to the possibility to ascend almost entirely on ice. Approach and Bivouac

• The initial bivouac is located at the end of the left-bank moraine or on the snowy plateau of the Tyutyu glacier — opposite the North wall of Jailyk peak.
• From the bivouac, ascend along the glacier, then along a 60-meter ice-and-snow slope to approach the left side of the wide rocky Lower Island to the right of the North wall of Jailyk peak. Ascent to the Lower Rocky Island
• From the slope, to the right of the avalanche cone, ascend straight up through difficult rocks of a vertical 10–12-meter corner, a 4-meter chimney, and steep 10-meter rocks of medium difficulty onto a ledge.
• From the ledge, ascend 100–120 m along steep, crumbling rocks of medium difficulty, alternating with small walls, under a 40–50-meter wall.
• Ascend a difficult chimney up and to the right onto a ledge.
• From the ledge, ascend up and to the left along smooth, higher — crumbling rocks of the wall and exit from it onto a weakly expressed ridge.

PASSPORT

1. Technical class.
2. Central Caucasus, Adyrsu gorge.
3. To Jailyk via the South ridge.
4. Category 5A.
5. Route length 803 m. Steepness of the main part of the route (wall) — 90 (R6–R15).
6. Pitons hammered: | Rock | Nut | Ice | | :--: | :--: | :-: | | 34/5X | 22/4X | 0/0 |

Dzhailyk via Western Ridge (V. Ruzhevsky route, 5A cat.) The route is sometimes called “Women's Five” or “Dombay Five”, implying easy dry rocks (up to cat. V) that can be realistically climbed in a day even by women. We have a good opinion about women climbers, as this route is not that easy; moreover, in bad weather it becomes virtually impassable, unlike “Monakh”.

• A bivouac can be set up at “Verkhne-Kichkidarskie nochyovki” (Upper Kichkidar Camps) or on the saddle below Donkin Pass.
• From the Western Yunom Glacier, move from the bivouac to the base of the Western Ridge of Dzhailyk peak.
• Via the avalanche debris and ice-snow slope of the Central couloir, along the rocks on the left side, approach the first inner corner at the base of the Western Ridge.
• From “Verkhne-Kichkidarskie nochyovki” it takes about 1 hour. From here:
• Up the moderately difficult 30-meter inner corner, then via smoothed steep 40–50-meter slabs ascend to the Western Ridge of Dzhailyk peak.
• Via monolithic steep slabs of above-average difficulty with short difficult walls on the Western Ridge, ascend 200–250 m to the Lower Triangle summit plateau.
• From the plateau, 50–60 m up a steep smoothed slab of above-average difficulty, then 30 m up a wall with a chimney-crack to a rock outcrop.

Climbing Passport

1. Central Caucasus. Elbrus Region, Adyr-Su gorge. 2.4.1 according to KMGV.
2. Name of the peak: Dzhailyk (4533 m); "Big Chimney" 3rd wall of the South Ridge shoulder.
3. Proposed: 5B category of difficulty, new variant of D. Laskavy's route, 78; 2.4.1.38 according to KMGV.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Route height difference: 550 m. Route length: 900 m. Average slope: 40° from R0 to R6. Wall section from R2 to R6: 70°.
6. Hooks left on the route: 2 pcs.

Ascent Passport

1. Technical grade
2. Caucasus. Adyr-su gorge
3. Djailik via the left part of the 1st South Western ridge (M. Franzuzov's route variant, 70)
4. First ascent of a new 5A variant approximately
5. Height difference: 600 m Length: 1000 m Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty grade: 40 m Average steepness of the wall part of the route: 67° Height difference of the wall part: 150 m

Ascent Passport

I. Technical category 2. Central Caucasus, Adyr-Su, Kulumkol valleys 3. Jailyk peak via the right edge of the 1st Southern bastion of the Western ridge, 4533 m 4. Proposed — 5B cat. diff., first ascent 5. Height difference: 730 m, length — 1015 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 240 m. Average steepness of the wall section of the route — 79° (3850–4100 m), including 6 cat. diff. — 75–95° (3905–4050 m) 6. Pitons hammered:

• rock: 53 (hammered) / 50 (left)
• bolt: 12 / 4
• chocks: 85 / 70

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, northern spur of the Main Caucasian Range, branching off from Mestia-tau peak, Djailyk knot between Donkin and Killar passes.
3. Peak — its height, ascent route: Djailyk 4533 m, combined route via south-southwest wall of the southern ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference: 890 m.
   • Average steepness up to the summit ridge: 64°.
   • Average steepness of the most difficult "key" part of the route: 89°.

Passport

1. Technical category
2. Central Caucasus, Adyr-Su gorge
3. Jailyk peak via the West face of the South shoulder, D. Laskavyi route, 1978, cat. 5B
4. Height difference 850 m
5. Average slope 58°
6. Length of sections with cat. 5–6 difficulty – 157 m
7. Pitons used:

   Category	For belay	For artificial climbing

North Caucasus and Southern Federal Districts Climbing Championship

high-altitude technical class

REPORT

On the ascent of Jailyk peak via the 3rd wall of the S. shoulder of the S. ridge (D. Laskavy's route) 5B category of complexity by the team from Rostov Region for the period from July 24–25, 2024.

I. ASCENT DOCUMENTATION

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Adyr-su gorge, section 2.4.1.
2. Peak Dzhailyk, left part of the 3rd wall of the Yugrebnya shoulder.
3. Difficulty category: 5B.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Height difference — 730 m; route length — 1000 m. Length of sections: 5th diff. cat. — 50 m, 6th diff. cat. — 75 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — 85°, entire route — 55°.
6. Pitons left on the route: total — 4, including bolted — 1. Pitons used on the route: