Appendix I

Ascent Record

I. Ascent class — rock: 2. Ascent region — Main Caucasus Range and its spurs from Chipperazau pass to Orotokara peak. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Bashil peak, 4257 m, 4800 m via the south face. 4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 800 m, average steepness — 75°, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 185 m. 6. Number of pitons: for belaying and for creating M.T.O. average steepness — 75°, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 185 m. 6. Number of pitons: for belaying and for creating M.T.O. average steepness — 75°, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 185 m 6B pitons: for belaying and for creating M.T.O. final 69, 18 bolted, 3 ice. 7. Number of walking hours — 26 (excluding descent). 8. Number of nights and their characteristics — 2, semi-reclining, in a tent. 9. Surname, name, patronymic of participants and their qualification: Merlis Viktor Petrovich — MSMK, leader

Passport

I. Category — technical. 2. Main Caucasian Range and its spurs from Chipperaza pass to Ortokara peak. 3. Bashil peak, 4257 m, center of the South wall bastion. 4. Proposed 5B category of difficulty first ascent. 5. Height difference: 800 m. Length: 1050 m. Length of 5–6 category of difficulty sections: 215 m. Average steepness of main sections: 73° (3510 m–3980 m). Including 6 category of difficulty — 40 m (3580 m–3900 m), 93°. 6. Pitons driven:

$ 3700 $

8. Gaw­wa

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent type: rock
2. Ascent area: "in accordance with KTMVG" Caucasus, from Chipperazau Pass to Kitlod Pass.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Bashil — 4257 m, via the center of the West Face.
4. Expected difficulty category: 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 780 m, average steepness 70°. Section lengths: 1st diff. cat. — 0, 2nd diff. cat. — 0, 3rd diff. cat. — 70 m, 4th diff. cat. — 415 m, 5th diff. cat. — 300 m, 6th diff. cat. — 80 m.
6. Pitons driven: | For belaying | For creating artificial holds | | :----------: | :---------------------------: | | Rock — 83 | 37 |

236. Bodorку East via Southwest by the couloir and West ridge (combined route, 2A cat. of difficulty, fig. 18, 28). The path from the Chetem tourist base (a group of 4–8 people) to the Tiber pass is described in route 235. From the pass, descend along the scree, then along the snowy couloir to the Lyчат glacier and, turning right, approach its right side (closed crevasses) under the wide snowy couloir descending from the saddle of the Bodorку massif, located between its peaks. The initial bivouac is on the plateau. From the Bashil tourist base, ascend along the trail on the left bank of the Bashil river. Having passed the canyon, along a wide green terrace high above the river, exit to the marshy meadows, beyond them - across the fields, through a small grove - to the moraine deposits and along them approach the tongue of the Bashil glacier.

• Bypass the tongue from the left and exit onto the glacier along the moraines.
• Further along the left side of the flat glacier, approach the roches moutonnées at the first stage of the icefall.
• Bypass the first stage of the icefall from the left along steep scree and roches moutonnées and exit to the sites at the end of the left-bank moraine. From the Bashil tourist base - 4–5 hours. Descend from the moraine to the right onto the glacier and ascend along the left side of its eastern branch, then turn right and cross it (closed crevasses) in the direction of the Lyчат pass, located in the Main Caucasian Range between the Lyчат peak on the right and Bodorку on the left. From the Bashil tourist base - 7–8 hours. From the glacier, having passed along the snow bridge over the bergschrund, ascend along a gentle, heavily crevassed ice-and-snow slope to the Lyчат pass. From the pass:

Eastern

152. Bo­dorku Za­pad­na­ya via Za­pad­ny ridge (com­bined route, cat. 1B diff., fig. 20, 23). From Ly­chat­skie plos­chad­ki (climb 148) on the left side of Ly­chat glacier (closed cre­vasses) ap­proach Ly­chat pas­sage. From the glacier, via snow, then scree slope, fur­ther via badly dam­aged wet rocks of steep nar­row couloir as­cend to Ly­chat pas­sage, then turn right and reach Za­pad­ny ridge of Bo­dorku Za­pad­na­ya. From here, 400–500 m up­wards via easy dam­aged rocks with short sim­ple over­com­ing en route gen­darmes and rises, by­pass­ing more dif­fi­cult sec­tions via ice-snow slopes on the left. And via steep ice-snow (closed cre­vasses, cor­niche) slope of Za­pad­ny ridge as­cend to the sum­mit of Bo­dorku

151. Bo­dorku Za­pad­nuyu from the south via the couloir and the Eastern ridge (combined route, category 1B difficulty, fig. 20, 23). On the saddle (point 150) turn left and ascend via an easy gentle, in places sharp (belay required), with short simple walls, heavily destroyed and snow-covered (cornices) 300–400-meter rocky Eastern ridge to the summit of Bo­dorku Za­pad­nuyu. From the Ly­chad­skie plo­schad­ki 3–4 hours.

240. Bodorku Western — Eastern

(combined route, 2A cat. of difficulty, fig. 18, 28). The path from the Bashil tourist center (group 4–50 people) to the upper plateau of the Eastern branch of the Bashil glacier is described in route 236. Across the plateau (closed crevasses), bypassing the broken part of the Eastern branch on the right, approach the broken ice-and-snow western slope of the Northern ridge of the Bodorku massif. From the glacier, first ascend along the center of the gently sloping ice-and-snow western slope in the direction of the snowy summit dome of Bodorku. Then, above the lower crevasses and ice falls, ascend upwards — to the left in the direction of the saddle of the Northern ridge. Bypassing numerous crevasses, the ascent along the ice-and-snow slope to the saddle of the Northern ridge — the Bodorku pass. The path to the Bodorku pass from the Chegem tourist center is described in route 241. On the saddle (when ascending via Bashil glacier), turn right and move along the wide, gently sloping ice-and-snow Northern ridge (cornices on the left); bypass rocky sections via ice-and-snow couloirs on the right. Having traversed an ice crevasse via a snow bridge, ascend a steep ice-and-snow slope to the ice dome of the Bodorku Western summit. From the pass — 1.5–2 hours. From the Western summit, descend along the gently sloping easy, местами острому, сильно разрушенному и заснеженному скальному (rocky, presumably) Southeastern ridge to the saddle (cornice). From the saddle, ascend along the steep, острому, сильно разрушенному и заснеженному rise (cornices, protection required) of the Northwestern ridge to the shoulder. From the shoulder, ascend along the simple, snow-covered, gently sloping Northwestern ridge to the summit of Bodorku Eastern. From the Western summit — 3–4 hours.