1. Bodorку East via Southwest by the couloir and West ridge (combined route, 2A cat. of difficulty, fig. 18, 28). The path from the Chetem tourist base (a group of 4–8 people) to the Tiber pass is described in route 235. From the pass, descend along the scree, then along the snowy couloir to the Lyчат glacier and, turning right, approach its right side (closed crevasses) under the wide snowy couloir descending from the saddle of the Bodorку massif, located between its peaks. The initial bivouac is on the plateau.

From the Bashil tourist base, ascend along the trail on the left bank of the Bashil river. Having passed the canyon, along a wide green terrace high above the river, exit to the marshy meadows, beyond them - across the fields, through a small grove - to the moraine deposits and along them approach the tongue of the Bashil glacier.

  • Bypass the tongue from the left and exit onto the glacier along the moraines.
  • Further along the left side of the flat glacier, approach the roches moutonnées at the first stage of the icefall.
  • Bypass the first stage of the icefall from the left along steep scree and roches moutonnées and exit to the sites at the end of the left-bank moraine.

From the Bashil tourist base - 4–5 hours.

Descend from the moraine to the right onto the glacier and ascend along the left side of its eastern branch, then turn right and cross it (closed crevasses) in the direction of the Lyчат pass, located in the Main Caucasian Range between the Lyчат peak on the right and Bodorку on the left.

From the Bashil tourist base - 7–8 hours.

From the glacier, having passed along the snow bridge over the bergschrund, ascend along a gentle, heavily crevassed ice-and-snow slope to the Lyчат pass.

From the pass:

  • descend along the easy, heavily destroyed wet rocks of the steep narrow couloir;
  • exit to the scree;
  • descend along the scree to the Lyчат glacier.

Along the left side of the glacier, approach under the wide snowy couloir descending from the Bodorку massif.

From the Lyчат glacier plateau, having passed along the snow bridge over the bergschrund, ascend along a gentle wide ice-and-snow couloir (avalanches possible) to the saddle of the massif (cornice).

On the saddle:

  • turn right,
  • then ascend along the steep, sharp, heavily destroyed and snow-covered ascent (cornice, insurance) of the Northwest ridge - to the shoulder.

From the shoulder:

  • along the simple snow-covered gentle Northwest ridge, ascend to the peak of Bodorку East.

From the Lekzyr glacier - 2–3 hours.

Sources

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