5. Assault team and observation group composition. | # | Full Name | Year of Birth | Sports Rank | Responsibilities and Participation in Events | | :-: | :------------------- | :-----------: | :---------: | :------------------------------------------- | | 1. | Lapshin L. L. | 1943 | MS | Team Captain and Coach | | 2. | Lavrukhin V. I. | 1948 | CMS | Deputy Captain | | 3. | Tkachev V. K. | 1937 | MS | Participant | | 4. | Korzhavin A. P. | 1939 | CMS | Participant | | 5. | Kim T. | 1947 | CMS | Did not participate | | 6. | Filipov A. K. | 1947 | CMS | Did not participate | Observation Group:

1. Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category — technical
2. Climbing region — Pamir-Alay
3. Peak, its height, and route — Zamin-Karor, East peak 4767 m, from the north through the central part of the black triangle, first ascent.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 6th cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: Height difference: 1452 m. Length of sections:
   • RII – 465 m
   • RIII – 275 m

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent category — technical. 2. Ascent area — Gissar Range. 3. Ascent route — first ascent via the north wall of Peak 4630 m, Zamin-Karor NE. 4. Ascent characteristics: height difference 1450 m, average steepness 74°, length of complex sections 1390 m. 5. Pitons hammered: rock 227, ice 41, bolted 11. 6. Total climbing hours — 65. 7. Number of nights on the route — 4, all uncomfortable, semi-reclined, and in hammocks. 8. Team. The ascent was made by a team of instructors from the "Varzob" alpine camp of the CS DSO "Tadzhikistan". 9. Surname, name, patronymic of the team leader, participants, and their qualification:

I. Climbing category 2. Climbing area 3. Peak, its height, and route 4. Estimated difficulty category 5. Route characteristics: height difference section lengths average steepness 6. Pitons hammered: for belay rock 199, ice 9, bolt 38 chocks

4290

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category – technical
2. Ascent area – Gissar Range
3. Ascent route – 3. Karor (2B) First ascent via the north wall of peak 4702
4. Ascent characteristics:
   • Height difference 1240 m
   • Average steepness 75°
   • Length of complex sections 711 m

№ 34. Zamin Karor / II / 5A cat. diff. NW buttress. V. Martynov, 1975

§ 1. General characteristics of the route

The present route (except for the upper part) runs along the northwestern buttress of Centralnaya Zamin Karor peak. In its lower part, the buttress is not clearly defined. In the upper part, the route passes along the walls of the summit and pre-summit towers. The route is logical; to the left are smoothed vertical walls, and to the right is a huge rock-snow-ice gully that exits onto the saddle between Centralnaya and Glavnaya Zamin Karor peaks; rock and ice falls occur on both sides of the route (buttress). The terrain on the route is predominantly rocky (about 86%):

• Rocks in some areas are covered with ice until they are exposed to sunlight (12–1 pm).
• The rocky terrain consists mainly of monolithic rough rocks, but there are areas of broken rocks, which requires caution and proper movement tactics due to the risk of rockfall.
• There are many thin, shallow cracks in the rocks, as well as crevices where duralumin or wooden wedges can be used. About 12–14% of the route consists of firn and ice. The total length of the route is approximately 1300–1350 m (about 33 ropes), the average steepness (excluding key sections) is about 60°, the steepness of key sections (350–400 m long) is 70–80°, and the height difference is 1000–1050 m.

Passport

I. Class of ascent — technical 2. Region of ascent — Gissar Range 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Central peak of Zamin-Karor (4303 m) via N buttress from Central Col. 4. Proposed difficulty category 5B cat. dif. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1120 m, average steepness — 68°, length of sections with 5–6 cat. dif. 6. Number of pitons for belaying and creating RPS:

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Technical class.
2. Yaghnob. Hissar Range.
3. Summit Zamin-Karor 2nd West via N-3 slope, 4525 m.
4. Category 5B (rated).
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1400 m; length of sections with category 5–6 difficulty — 460 m; average steepness — 70–75°.
6. Pitons hammered for belay:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Gissar Range
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: P-ya Zapadnaya peak Zamin-Karor 4525, Lapshin route
4. Difficulty category: 5B – rated
5. Route characteristics: via the northwest wall
   • Height difference: 1500 m
   • Average steepness: 65–70°
   • Length of sections: R1 – 215 m; R2 – 160 m; R3 – 250 m; R4 – 300 m; R5 – 520 m; R6 – 65 m

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technically challenging.
2. Ascent area — Gissar Ridge, Yaghnob.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Second Western p. Zamin-Karor, 4525 m, via the Northwest wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1400 m, average steepness 63°, length of sections: 5th cat. diff. — 520 m, 6th cat. diff. — 50 m.
6. Pitons hammered: rock for belay 96, for creating belay stations 2; bolt pitons —, ice —.
7. Number of climbing hours — 20.5 h.
8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics — 1 overnight stay, lying down.