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First ascent description of the Korona peak (4810 m) in the Kyrgyz Ala-Too range via the ice wall in winter 1995.

I. Climbing category — technical Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky Range. Peak Korona (1st), 4810 m, via the ice wall 3 cat. complexity, ice and snow route. Estimated cat. complexity — LA 5– (winter), first ascent. Height difference: 1360 m. Wall section height difference — 600 m. Total length — 1995 m. Wall length — 770 m. Length of sections with 5 cat. complexity — 610 m. Average steepness — 53° (3450–4050 m). Pitons driven: rock 9, chocks 18, ice screws 110 Climbing hours: 14.5 hours; days — 2 Overnights: 1st in a hut on Uchitel glacier (processing).

Description of the route to the summit of Korona (I) via the western counterfort with a detailed analysis of the sections and recommendations on belay and equipment.

Оyatsa mapuryatapo sections Sect. 3. The start of the route is to the right of a pronounced rocky outcrop. The bergschrund wall is 3–5 meters. Then, along the icy slope, along the rocks to the right of K. Kelyugin's route, up the S wall, 3rd grade. Belaying: through ice screws Movement: on a double rope with the use of ice axes (French: piolet-traction is not mentioned but "айс-фифи" is translated as "ice fifis" or more likely "ice axes" in this context, but it is kept as "ice-fifi" or simply using "crampons" and tools for self-arrest) is not accurate here, so it is translated as "ice-fifi" Sect. 3. An ice step with a steepness of up to 60°, then under the rocks of the left side, the ascent is 16–20 meters. Belaying through ice screws, organization of handrails, rope handling to the first. In these areas, preliminary processing with 6 ropes. Sect. 3–6. Ice slope up to 55° along the rocky side. Entrance to the shoulder of the western counterfort. Before exiting to the shoulder, the steepness of the ice is up to 60°. Movement with the organization of handrails and rope handling to the first. Belaying through ice screws, using ice-fifi and ice axe. Control cairn in the area of section No.4. Sect. 8–10. Movement along the rocks, 3rd cat. diff., exit to the cushion of the Korona glacier and further along the route 3A cat. diff. to the Korona (I-ya) summit. Alternating and simultaneous movement, belaying through ice screws, rock pitons, and chocks. On the shoulder of the western counterfort — a control cairn. Sect. 10–12. Along the icy slope with a steepness of 40–45°, exit to the saddle between the I-st and II-nd towers. From the saddle, 1.5 ropes to the summit. Alternating movement, belaying through ice screws, rock pitons, and chocks.

Route diagram of the ascent to the summit in symbols and graphical representation.

ROUTE DIAGRAM IN SIMVOLDS, 1:5000

Climbing Mount Everest via the South Col: a description of the classic route, key challenges, and essential skills for mountaineers.

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The first winter ascent to the summit of Korona (4810 m) via the ice wall of 3rd category of difficulty, Kyrgyz Ala-Too Range, Tian Shan.

I. Climbing category — technical Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge. Peak Korona (1st), 4810 m, via ice wall, 3rd cat. diff., ice-snow route. Assumed category — (winter), first ascent. Height difference: 1360 m. Wall section height difference — 600 m. Total length — 1995 m. Wall length — 770 m. Length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 610 m. Avg. slope — 53° (3450–4050 m). Pitons hammered in: rock 9 placements ·18