the couloir between the rocky outcrops in the direction of the right lowering in the ridge. At first the snow is loose, then the slope becomes steeper, and the snow becomes hard. Movement along the ridge is via small snow hollows, and then through a narrow col we emerge onto a gently rising scree. Then again a snowy ascent and the path goes along a gently sloping ridge with alternating small snowy ascents and depressions. The snow is loose and friable, and in some places there are patches of flow ice. The summit itself is a large snow dome with a steep wall on the approach side (3–4 ropes). The ascent to the summit is in the middle part of the wall, as there is ice near the rocks, and movement along the rocks is very dangerous due to their instability. The movement is varied (from the snow plateau to the summit — 3 hours). The group reached the summit

Ча­сов processed this section of the path (7 ropes). The detour was made with thorough piton protection and using sport rappel (1 rope, an ice axe with a loop was left). Further, handrails were hung (2 ropes) traversing the wall to the snow-ice mulda. After a short horizontal section of the ridge, the first drop was followed by:

• another drop, one rope,
• then a mulda. Further, again, there was a horizontal section with a cornice and a very steep slope. Having ascended the wall to the mulda, the "two" cut steps along the ridge below the line of cornice break-off for three to four ropes and returned back to the remaining group at 18:00. The remaining "three" were busy with:

between the rocks. The movement is alternating, with protection using rock ledges. In this place, the first rope team натянула перила for the rapid passage of the second rope team (I–I,5 ropes). The couloir is prone to rockfall. The rocks are heavily destroyed. Further:

• we come out onto steep and hard snow
• in the upper part, the couloir becomes steeper (25–30°)
• there are sections of not very firm ice The movement is alternating. We come out into a lowering of the ridge onto a snowy plateau. The ridge in this place practically merges with one of the plateaus in the southern part of the glacier. (2–2.5 hours) From the snowy plateau, the ascent directly up the ridge rocks is impossible due to the presence of a bergschrund at the start of the ascent, and the rocks are steep and icy with few handholds. Therefore, the group moved along the ridge across the snowy plateau and ascended a steep snowy slope (30–35°). The ascent is in three stages with alternating protection; the snow is loose and crumbly, and a deep trench remains behind the leader. The ascent goes in the direction of an ice mulda on the ridge (4–5 ropes, 1 hour). The further path goes directly along the ridge. The ridge in this place represents endless ascents of varying steepness with small gentle sections between them. In some places, snow lies in a thin layer on the ice. Protection is alternating; some sections are traversed on front points. One of the ascents ends with a steep ice wall (3–4 m), where piton protection and step chopping are required. Sometimes, under a shallow layer of snow, ice crevasses are encountered.

Early in the morning, with 250 kg of cargo on the sleds. Having descended along the gentle snowy slope from the pass to the Fedchenko Glacier, we turned south, crossed the glacier, and approached the slopes of Pik Peredovoy. Here, the next intermediate camp was organized. The transition with sleds from the cave to the bivouac under Pik Peredovoy takes 10-12 hours.

3rd day

The group departed from the intermediate camp under Pik Peredovoy at 17:00 in the direction of the "rusty" counterforce. A long ridge branching off from the summit 6525 m in the western direction divides the cirque of Pik Revolyutsii into two parts: northern and southern. The northern part of the cirque is a series of gradually rising plateaus with sections of relatively steep ascent between them. In the upper part, there is a heavily broken icefall, which can be bypassed under the slopes of the western ridge of the 6300 m summit, and then a passage along huge snowfields is possible to the ridge of the 6525 m summit. The group rejected this path and chose a more logical and shorter route: into the southern part of the cirque, which is located somewhat lower and more gentle. Having bypassed numerous crevices, we approached the foot of the "rusty" counterforce. There is a convenient platform and water (3 hours).

4th day

From the bivouac, the group departed at 8:00 am. The ascent goes along a wide snow-ice couloir, the first from the "rusty" counterforce. The neighboring couloirs are narrow, steep, and covered with flow ice in the upper part. The path through the couloir:

Description and General Ascent Plan

Day 1

From the base camp located on the lake shore, next to the lateral moraine of the Abdukagor glacier (altitude 4000 m), the route passes along the left-bank moraine of the glacier to the point where the Kaskadny and Obvalov glaciers flow into it. Here, the moraine descends and has a convenient exit onto the ice. We crossed the merged Kaskadny and Obvalov glaciers and again reached the left-bank moraine of the Abdukagor glacier, where it sharply turns southeast (1 hour). A trail along the moraine leads to a flat area with water (1 hour). Slightly above the area, we descended from the moraine onto the glacier and began to move towards the middle part of the icefall formed by the left (orographically) branch of the Abdukagor glacier (30 minutes). The path goes:

• initially to the right,
• and higher - to the left (in the direction of travel) of its middle part (1 hour). The icefall is traversed in crampons. Above the icefall, there are three not very steep rises of the glacier, alternating with more gentle sections, which lead to the pass plateau. The glacier is heavily crevassed and covered with snow. Elevation gain from the icefall to the Abdukagor pass:
• 500–600 m