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May 8, 2025
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Ascent to the summit of Volnaya Ispaniya via the north wall along the route by V. Kizel of 5B category of complexity.

Ascent Log

  1. Region of ascent: Central Caucasus.
  2. Object of ascent: peak Volnaya Ispaniya.
  3. Route: via the north face (Vladimir Kizel, 1952).
  4. Difficulty category: 5B.
  5. Climbing hours — 22 days — 3
  6. Overnights – 2, the first before the rock chimney, the second on the "крыша" (roof).
  7. Departure for the route January 4th at 7:00 AM. Reached the summit January 6th at 11:00 AM.
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Report on the winter ascent of a team to the summit Volnaya Ispaniya (4200 m) in the North Caucasus via V. Kizel's route of category 5B.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent category — winter.
  2. Ascent area: North Caucasus.
  3. Peak, route: p. Volnaya Ispaniya, 4200 m, V. Kizel's route.
  4. Category of difficulty: 5B.
  5. Height difference: –580 m, route length — 850 m, length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 120 m. Average steepness of the route — 55°.
  6. Pitons hammered: rock – 16/4, chocks – 27/7, ice screws – 27, bolt pitons – 4/3*. Left on the route: bolt piton – 1, chock – 1.
  7. Team's working hours: 18 hours and days – 2.
  8. Overnight stay: sitting, on ice ledges.
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Report on the 1995 winter ascent to Volnaya Ispaniya peak via the North wall following the Category 5B route.

ASCENT REPORT

  1. Category: winter ascent.
  2. Central Caucasus, Adyl-SU gorge.
  3. Peak Volnaya Ispaniya via the North face (Kizel's route).
  4. Difficulty category: 5B.
  5. Height difference — 580 m, length — 850 m, out of which 5th and 6th difficulty categories — 110 m. Average steepness — 50°.
  6. Pitons used: Ice screws: 38 (0) Rock pitons: 5 (0) Existing bolted pitons on the route (6 pieces) were used for belaying.
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Description of the winter ascent of the SKA-13 MVO team to Peak Volnaya Ispaniya via the North wall, complexity category 5B, completed in one day on February 14, 1992.

Passport

  1. Class of winter ascents.
  2. Caucasus, Main Caucasus Range.
  3. Peak Volnaya Spain, via North face, 4200 m.
  4. Category 5B difficulty.
  5. Elevation gain: 400 m, length 600 m. Length of sections: 5th category – 140 m. 6th category – 20 m. Average steepness of the route – 54°, average steepness of the key section – 80°.
  6. Hooks left on the route – 2 pcs.
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Report on the ascent of Volnaya Ispaniya Peak (4271 m) via the S wall, difficulty category 5B, combined route, 800 m long.

Ascent Passport

  1. Caucasus, Adyl-Su gorge, section 2.4.32.
  2. Volnaya Ispaniya peak, 4271 m, via N wall (V. Kizel, 1952).
  3. Difficulty category — 5B.
  4. Route character — combined.
  5. Route height difference — 500 m; Route length — 800 m; Length of sections:
    • V difficulty category — 55 m
    • VI difficulty category — 40 m
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