The area — Caucasus, Dagestan mountains. The peak — Eridag (NW) 3887 m via the cornices of the central part of the right bastion of the NW wall. It is proposed — 6B cat. dif., second ascent. The nature of the route — rock.

Characteristics of the route:

The height difference of the route — 1167 m. The height difference of the wall section — 1030 m. The length of the route — 3025 m. The length of the wall section (excluding the length of the traverse along the ledges of the summit tower) — 1175 m. The average steepness of the route — 64°. The average steepness of the wall — 75°. The average steepness of the bastion — 80°. The length of sections of 6 cat. dif. — 700 m, 5 cat. dif. — 200 m.

Left on the route:

Rock hooks — 0, anchor hooks — 3, piton hooks (8 mm) — 1, chock stones — 0. Hooks used on the route:

• stationary pitons — 10
• removable pitons — 25 (8 mm). Total protection used — 228, including skyhooks — 143. Number of climbing hours — 51, days — 4. Number of nights — 3. Team leader — Klenov Alexander Valerievich, HMS.

Ascent Passport

1. Region 2.10, Caucasus, Dagestan Mountains, Chekhychay gorge.
2. Erydag (NW), 3887 m, via the ledges of the central part of the right bastion of the NW wall.
3. Proposed — 6B cat. diff., first ascent.
4. The route is rock climbing.
5. Height difference of the route 1167 m, route length 3025 m, wall height difference 1030 m, average wall slope 75°, average bastion slope 80°, length of the wall part of the route (excluding the traverse along the ledges of the summit tower) 1175 m, length of sections with 5th category difficulty – 200 m, passed on aid climbing (conditionally 6B cat. diff.) – 700 m, including difficulty A1 – 150 m, A2 – 500 m, A3 – 50 m.
6. Left on the route:
   • rock pitons — 5
   • bolt pitons (removable) — 7
   • "spit" sleeves (12 mm) — 9

2005 Russian Mountaineering Championship. Technical Ascents Class

Report

On the first ascent by the team of the Dagestan Alpine Federation (combined team of the Southern Regional Rescue Squad of the Russian Emergency Ministry) on Erydag (NW), 3887 m via the cornices of the central part of the right bastion of the NW wall, category 6B.

Addresses

354003, Krasnodar Krai, Sochi, 151-a Plastunskaya St., Southern Regional Rescue Squad of the Russian Emergency Ministry, tel.: (8622) 68-03-03, 68-02-02 367015, Republic of Dagestan, Makhachkala, 17 Erliha St., Dagestan Rescue Squad of the Russian Emergency Ministry Tel./fax: (8722) 67-23-75 Photo of the wall profile from the right, at 3300 m, from K. Dorro's route, February 2000.

RUSSIAN ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP 2010 HIGH-ALTITUDE CLASS

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Erydag (NW) via the center of the NW bastion of the NW wall by the team from Volgograd Region VOLGOGRAD 2010

Ascent Passport

1. Area: Caucasus, Dagestan Mountains, Chekhychay Gorge.
2. Erydag (NNW), 3887 m, via the center of the right bastion of the NW wall (Voronin route).

2010 Russian Mountaineering Championship, High Altitude Category

Report on the ascent of the team from Irkutsk to the NW peak of Erydag, 3887 m, via the center of the NW bastion (S. Voronin, 2001)

Irkutsk, 2010, Ascent Details

1. Location: Eastern Caucasus, Dagestan Mountains, Chekhychay River valley. Classification table section: 2.2.
2. Peak: Erydag NW, 3887 m, route via the center of the NW bastion (S. Voronin, 2001), route #48b.
3. Difficulty category: 6B.
4. Route type: Rock climbing.
5. Wall height: 1050 m. Route length: 1300 m. Length of sections by difficulty category: V - 405 m, VI - 540 m. Average slope: Bastion - 80°, wall section - 75°, entire route - 60°.
6. Pitons left on the route: 5 (3 anchor, 2 chock stones). Pitons used: anchor - 134/15, chock stones - 47/13. Drill screws used: stationary - 11/6, removable - 14/8 (mostly in old holes, including 1 for hanging a hammock on the 2nd night), + about 45 points on skyhooks and fiffies.

Ascent Passport

1. Region 2.10, Caucasus, Dagestan mountains, Chekhychay gorge.
2. Erydag (NNW), 3887 m, via the center of the right bastion on the NW wall (Voronin route).
3. Proposed category: 6B in winter, third ascent.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Route height difference: 1127 m. Length of the wall section: 1165 m. Section lengths:

1. Climbing Passport

1. Region: Caucasus, Dagestan Mountains, Chekhychai gorge.
2. Erydag (NNW), 3887 m, via the center of the right bastion of the NW wall, Voronin Route.
3. Second ascent. Estimated category 6B.
4. Rock climbing route.
5. Route height difference: 1100 m, route length: 2700 m, wall height difference: 950 m, wall section length: 1200 m (excluding traverse along the ledge from R23 to R24), average wall steepness: 75°, average bastion steepness: 80° (from R0 to R22), length of sections with category V difficulty: 405 m, category VI: 540 m, length of sections with artificial aids (ITO): 545 m, with complexity A1: 15 m,

ASCENT REPORT

1. Ascent category
   • rock
2. Ascent region
   • Eastern Caucasus
3. Peak Erydag Main 4100 m via bastions of NW wall
4. Proposed category of difficulty 5B (Second ascent)
5. Height difference
   • 1200 m Length

Ascent Passport.

I. Ascent Class

• rock climbing.

2. Ascent Region

• Eastern Caucasus, YarnDagohiy ridge.

3. Peak, its height, ascent route — YarnDag Main 4150 m via the left part of the North-West wall.
4. Category of difficulty

• 5A.

5. Route characteristics:

• section length — new 5 km. tr. 44 I m. Height difference — 930 m. Average steepness 70°.

Minutes

of the analysis of the first ascent via the left part of the West wall of v. Yarydag Glavnaya, made by the group of the alpinist club "Donbass", consisting of:

• 1. Ruchka V.Ya. — leader
• 2. Sedristy S.I. — member
• 3. Lapchenko V.F. — member
• 4. Reshetnyak V.A. — member November 4–6, 1980. Attendees:
• B.G. Sivtsov — Master of Sports of the USSR, supervisor, head of the alpinist club "Donbass" gathering.
• A.T. Siryachenko — Master of Sports of the USSR, head of the rescue team.