South Central Caucasus

Description of the category 3B route to the peak Skryabin (3456 m) via the north-eastern ridge on the Main Caucasian Range.

The route to the summit of Pik Skryabina via the Northeast Ridge (first ascent). The summit elevation is 3456 m. Introduction Pik Skryabina is located in a short spur of the Main Caucasian Range between the peaks of Khalatsa and Zekkara in the upper Zrug gorge. The distance from the village of Nar to the foot of the mountain is 12 km. The Transcaucasian Highway rescue team is based in Nar. The Zrug gorge is in a border zone, so it is necessary to obtain permits in advance. 10 km from Nar, on the riverbank, there are ruins of a 10th-century temple on a hill. It is possible to spend the night in a hut near the temple. In the summer, ascents to the surrounding peaks can be made from the hut. Ascent Details North Caucasus, Zrug gorge, Main Caucasian Range, classification point – 2.8. Name of the peak: Pik Skryabina, route: via the Northeast Ridge. Proposed category: 3B. Route type: rock.

### Description of the Route Details on traversing the 2B category complexity route to Peak Skryabin via the North Ridge, including approach details and technically challenging sections.

Approach Description From the confluence of the Zaki and Zrug rivers along the dirt road that runs along the Zrug River to the ruins of the church. About 20 km. A kilometer upstream, the river splits into two tributaries: Follow the right tributary eragrafically for 1.5 hours to the kosh. Then, head right along the stream (eragrafically, the left side of the gorge). Enter a small cirque formed by two ridges of p. Skryabina. Bivouac is possible. From the church, it takes 4–4.5 hours. Route Description P. Skryabina via the North Ridge, category III difficulty. From the bivouac, head right onto the ridge. Then, along the ridge for 250–300 m (R0–R1), category I difficulty. After that, the ridge turns into a mountain slope with minor ascents (R1–R2), 100 m, category II difficulty.

Description of the ascent to Zeкара Peak (3828 m) via the North Ridge, complexity category 1Б-2А, climbed by a group of rescuers in 2007.

Ascent Passport Caucasus, Zrug gorge, Classification section number 2.8. Zekara (3828 m) — via the North Ridge. Proposed category: 1B-2A, first ascent. Route type — rock. Route elevation gain — about 600 m (from point R0). Total route length — about 2 km. Length of sections with category 4 difficulty — 10 m. Steepness of key sections — 80°. Average steepness of the route — 35°. Pitons left on the route — none. Pitons used on the route — none. Chocks used on the route — 5.

Description of the ascent route to Peak D. Gogaev (3836 m) along the eastern ridge, complexity category 3A, with a detailed description of the path and diagrams.

Climbing type: rock climbing. Climbing area: Caucasus, Midagrabindon gorge. Peak, route: p. D. Gogaev (3836 m) East ridge. Estimated category of difficulty: 3A rock, semi-independent. Route characteristics: height difference — 1200 m, route length — 1500 m, section lengths: 2nd category of difficulty — 350 m 3rd category of difficulty — 110 m 4th category of difficulty — 95 m, average steepness of the route — 45°, steepness of key sections — 65° Pitons driven: 5 rock pitons.

Climbing passport for the ascent to the 3836 m peak in the Midagrabindon river gorge in the Caucasus, complexity category 2A, rock climbing category.

Ascent Passport I. Ascent category: rock climbing Ascent area: Caucasus, 2.8, Midagrabindon river gorge Peak, route: "3836", East ridge, 3rd category Estimated category of difficulty: 2A, partially rocky Route characteristics: Elevation gain — 580 m Route length — 1200 m Section lengths: Category 3 — 46 m