Ascent Passport

I. Ascent category: rock climbing 2. Ascent area: Caucasus, 2.8, Midagrabindon river gorge 3. Peak, route: "3836", East ridge, 3rd category 4. Estimated category of difficulty: 2A, partially rocky 5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain — 580 m Route length — 1200 m Section lengths:

• Category 3 — 46 m

1. Climbing type: rock climbing.
2. Climbing area: Caucasus, Midagrabindon gorge.
3. Peak, route: p. D. Gogaev (3836 m) East ridge.
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 3A rock, semi-independent.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1200 m, route length — 1500 m, section lengths:

• 2nd category of difficulty — 350 m
• 3rd category of difficulty — 110 m
• 4th category of difficulty — 95 m, average steepness of the route — 45°, steepness of key sections — 65°

6. Pitons driven: 5 rock pitons.

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Zrug gorge, Classification section number 2.8.
2. Zekara (3828 m) — via the North Ridge.
3. Proposed category: 1B-2A, first ascent.
4. Route type — rock.
5. Route elevation gain — about 600 m (from point R0). Total route length — about 2 km. Length of sections with category 4 difficulty — 10 m. Steepness of key sections — 80°. Average steepness of the route — 35°.
6. Pitons left on the route — none. Pitons used on the route — none. Chocks used on the route — 5.

Approach Description

From the confluence of the Zaki and Zrug rivers along the dirt road that runs along the Zrug River to the ruins of the church. About 20 km. A kilometer upstream, the river splits into two tributaries:

• Follow the right tributary eragrafically for 1.5 hours to the kosh.
• Then, head right along the stream (eragrafically, the left side of the gorge).
• Enter a small cirque formed by two ridges of p. Skryabina. Bivouac is possible. From the church, it takes 4–4.5 hours.

Route Description

P. Skryabina via the North Ridge, category III difficulty. From the bivouac, head right onto the ridge. Then, along the ridge for 250–300 m (R0–R1), category I difficulty. After that, the ridge turns into a mountain slope with minor ascents (R1–R2), 100 m, category II difficulty.

The route to the summit of Pik Skryabina via the Northeast Ridge (first ascent). The summit elevation is 3456 m.

Introduction

Pik Skryabina is located in a short spur of the Main Caucasian Range between the peaks of Khalatsa and Zekkara in the upper Zrug gorge. The distance from the village of Nar to the foot of the mountain is 12 km. The Transcaucasian Highway rescue team is based in Nar. The Zrug gorge is in a border zone, so it is necessary to obtain permits in advance. 10 km from Nar, on the riverbank, there are ruins of a 10th-century temple on a hill. It is possible to spend the night in a hut near the temple. In the summer, ascents to the surrounding peaks can be made from the hut.

Ascent Details

1. North Caucasus, Zrug gorge, Main Caucasian Range, classification point – 2.8.
2. Name of the peak: Pik Skryabina, route: via the Northeast Ridge.
3. Proposed category: 3B.
4. Route type: rock.