Description of the rock climbing route by A. Naumov on the traverse of Chutkro peaks Western - Central - Eastern (category III complexity).
Fig. 3. Chutaro Zapadnaya — Vostochnaya (a rock route, A. Naumova, 3B cat. diff., fig. 2, 3). From Chutaro Zapadnaya (point 2) descend via a wide easy 100–120-meter rocky Vostochny ridge. Then, bypassing the I and II gendarmes of the saddle from the right along the ledges and easy crumbling rocks, approach the 10–12-meter wall at the base of the Zapadny ridge of Chutaro Tsentralnaya summit. Up the moderately difficult rocks of the wall (piton) straight up. Then ascend 50–60 m traversing steep moderately difficult rocks on the right side of the Zapadny ridge (protection) of Chutaro Tsentralnaya. Then, via talus, bypass the summit tower from the right, exiting onto its Vostochny ridge. Here, turn left and ascend the easy wide 60–80-meter Vostochny ridge to the summit of Chutaro Tsentralnaya. From Zapadnaya — 1–1.5 hours. From Tsentralnaya, descend via the easy rocky Vostochny ridge. Further down the easy ridge, overcoming all low gendarmes in the zone, exit onto the saddle below the Zapadny ridge of Chutaro Vostochnaya. From the saddle, overcoming a 12–15-meter moderately difficult wall (piton) in the zone, ascend the easy 150–200-meter rocky Zapadny ridge to the foot of the ascent of Chutaro Vostochnaya. Up the steep rocks of the 15-meter ascent («live» rocks, protection) to the summit of Chutaro Vostochnaya. From Tsentralnaya — 1–1.5 hours. A descent variation to the saddle is via the ascent route along the Zapadny ridge. From the saddle, descend left (south) initially along the left, then the right side of a wide rocky couloir (rocks, «live» rocks, protection), then via «ram’s foreheads», easy rocks, talus, and grassy slopes to the base camp.
Ascent to the summit Jeanne d'Arc via the southwest wall with exit onto the ridge, first ascent.
2015 North Face of V. Chutkharo West
Ascent to the summit of Samerchkhle in the Bezingi gorge via the southwestern counterforce, description of the route and its key features.
Samertsle Panorama of Chutharo - Samertsle massif (3) (4) to N. wall 700 m, 300 m, 60°, 17 cat, 10 h Gorudulin, A. Dmitriev, V. Molnar, V. Khudal 83
Description of the route to Chutharo West summit via the Western ridge, difficulty category 3A, with details on passing rock terrain and key sections.
Fig. 3. Chutkharo Western peak via Western ridge (rocky route, A. Naumova, category III difficulty, fig. 2, 3). At the grassy col (point 1), turn right and ascend a wide grassy slope, talus, and easy rocks to the Western ridge of Chutkharo Western peak, to the right of its first pinnacle. Bypass the pinnacle on the right via easy rocks. Then, proceed along easy rocks and large talus of the Western ridge to approach the second pinnacle, which is bypassed on the left via ledges. Traverse the simple, rocky, and rugged Western ridge, overcoming or bypassing numerous pinnacles, to reach a narrow saddle.
Description of the route to the summit of Sаmertskhle Zapadnaya (Western Sаmertskhle) via the Western ridge, difficulty category 3Б, with details of the ascent and descent options.
Samertskhle Zapadnaya via Western Ridge (rock climbing route, A. Naumova, category 3B difficulty, fig. 2, 4). On the wide col of the massif between the peaks of Sandro and Samertskhle (big tour, landmark 10) turn right and move along the simple 200–300-meter wide Western Ridge of Samertskhle Zapadnaya, overcoming low gendarmes and ascents head-on. Then 8–10 m along the sharp medium-difficulty (belay) Western Ridge. Further along the ledges and simple rocks on the right side of the Western Ridge. Bypass the "Jvari" gendarme on the right (belay), approach the summit ascent. From here, traverse right along narrow ledges to reach a rib, from which a 30 m traverse to the right along smooth slabs (pitons) leads to a narrow vertical couloir - chimney. Up the couloir - chimney ("live" stones) 10 m to a ledge, and from it up a steep smooth 30-meter slab (pitons) to a narrow ledge. Along the intermittent narrow ledge under the overhanging walls, traverse with a slight ascent to the right onto a narrow saddle of the Southern Rib. On the saddle, turn left and, bypassing the overhanging stones, ascend 40 m up the medium-difficulty wall ("live" stones, pitons). Further along simple rocks, ascend to the summit of Samertskhle Zapadnaya. From the big tour, the exit point to the massif's col, 5–6 hours. Descent option along the simple rocks of the Eastern Ridge to the saddle. From the saddle, to the right (south) and down along the easy simple destroyed rocks of the couloir (stones). Further: Descent along the snow-ice slope to the grassy slopes Along the grassy slopes through the saddle of the Lechumi Ridge Return to the base camp
Report on the first ascent of the northern spur of the northwestern ridge of the 3428 m peak in the Baksan gorge area, grade 4A complexity.
Report on the First Ascent by the Team of the Multifaceted Mountaineering Club "Freeline" from Essentuki TO THE SUMMIT 3428 m via the northern counterfort of the northwestern ridge Presumably 4A category of difficulty Leader: Donskov Andrey Mikhailovich Coach: Motiienko Nikolai Ilyich Essentuki 2017
Report on the first ascent to the peak 3428 m via the North-West ridge, category 1B on the Caucasus.
Report on the First Ascent to the Peak 3428 m via the Northwest Ridge, Presumably Category 1B, by the Team of the "Freeline" Multidisciplinary Mountaineering Club from Essentuki, July 14-15, 2018 Climbing Report Form | № p.p. | 1. General Information | | | :----------: | :------------------------------: | :-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | | 1.1 | Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader | Semenova Olesya Artemovna, 1st sports rank | | 1.2 | Full Name, Sports Rank of the Participants | Popov M.L., CMS; Donskov A.M., 1st sports rank; Ivanov R.I., 2nd sports rank; Shchedrin G.A., 2nd sports rank; Konstantinov G.A., 2nd sports rank; Kovalev R.A., 3rd sports rank; Shevchuk E.S., 3rd sports rank; Gyulushanyan R.S., badge; Ivashchenko S.V., badge | | 1.3 | Full Name of the Coach | Motienko N.I. |
Description of the route to Peak I Maya (4B category of complexity) with a detailed indication of the ascent and descent path, as well as possible bivouac locations.
Description of the Pik I Maya 4B cat. sl. route From the base of the central couloir of Pik I Maya to the right side 200–230 m to the right side of the rocky outcrop. In its center — an exit to the ridge on its summit. Control cairn. From it: 70 m along the ice couloir on the left side 30 m along the slabs 100 m along the ice crust under the wall of the II couloir to the inner corner Traverse left 25 m 4th wall of the couloir upwards to the left along the rocks of medium difficulty under the inner corner of the 4th gendarme, S/3 of the ridge 20 m along the corner, a slab is hanging above Ascent to the shoulder