E­ca­sa3 4456

XVIII. Brief Explanation of the UIAA Scheme

The ascent along the snowy cone of the talus does not constitute part of the route but is considered a difficult section because the loose deep snow interspersed with ice blocks complicates movement. Sec. R0–R1 · Bergschrund — a crevasse perpendicular to the slope, the upper edge of which overhangs and acts as a springboard. Sec. R1–R2 · Firn couloir with a steepness of 50°. Sec. R2–R3 · Ice groove through a rock belt 50 m, up to 65°. Sec. R3–R4 · Firn slope with a steepness of 50°. Sec. R4–R5 · Entry onto the "ram's foreheads" along the line between the upper rock steps. Sec. R5–R6 · Snow-covered "ram's foreheads". Sec. R6–R7 · Rocky ascent 150 m, 60°. Sec. R7–R8 · Ice wall 40 m, exit onto a ledge between seracs. Sec. R8–R9 · Traverse left to bypass the icefall. Sec. R9–R10 · Snow ascent 30°. Entry onto the saddle. Sec. R10–R11 · Flat snow field towards the Eastern ridge of the North summit of Western Belukha. Sec. R11–R12 · Wind-swept ice ridge with rocky outcrops 45°, 500 m. Sec. R12–R13 · Summit ridge with snow cornice to the left, up to the North summit of Western Belukha 300 m. Sec. R13–R14 · 1000 m along a sharp snowy ridge traverse to the main summit of the Specified Belukha 4456 m. Caution, snow cornices! Sec. R14–R15 · Descent along the Western ridge of the main summit onto the Western plateau, 400 m vertically.

120 m 70–80° I

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The route passes through the part of the Ak-Kem wall visible from Lake Ak-Kem, with an exit to the Western plateau. The route begins from the left upper cirque of the Ak-Kem glacier at an altitude of 3100 m. Section R0–R1. Snow slope. Section R1–R2. Bergschrund 4 m. Insurance through an ice axe. Section R2–R3. Firn slope under a hanging glacier. Section R3–R4. Tongue of a hanging glacier. Ice is hard. Section R4–R5. Snow cushion of a hanging glacier with ice islands. Section R5–R6. Firn bergschrund. Section R6–R2. Belt of ice-filled rocks. Steepness 45–50°. Section R7–R8. Icy rock belt 65°. Section R8–R9. Ice slope with rock islands.

I. Belukha-cross by the Central Counterfort of the Northern wall 5B cat. difficulty (first ascent). The ascent was made on August 2-5, 1984 by a group of trainers from the MAL "Altai-84" camp:

• Loktionov V.M. — leader, Master of Sports, instructor;
• Kochetov V.S. — participant, Candidate for Master of Sports, instructor;
• Veiko V.P. — participant, Candidate for Master of Sports, instructor;
• Soloboev V.E. — participant, Candidate for Master of Sports, instructor. Moscow, 1986 In the 1983 and 1984 seasons, the international mountaineering camp "Altai" operated in the Belukha area. The Northern wall of the Belukha massif (photo 1) drew the most attention and heightened interest from all mountaineers, as it turned out to be unclimbed (at that time). Two routes were particularly tempting:
• through the center of the Northern wall of East Belukha (via the direttissima);
• Belukha-cross with ascent via the Central counterfort of the Northern wall.

RUSSIAN ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIPS. ICE-SNOW CLASS

Report

on the first ascent to Belukha (3), 4400 m via the direttissima of the northern wall by the team from Altai Krai Sports Committee. Coaches:

• Plotnikov I.A. — Master of Sports of International Class
• Kuznetsov N.A. — Candidate Master of Sports 1996

Passport

1. Ice-snow class

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Belukha (V), 4506 m via the right part of the northwest wall (3rd passage, approximately 5B cat. sl.) by the team of the Altai Regional Sports Committee. Coaches: Plotnikov I.A. — Master of Sports of International Class, Kuznetsov N.A. — Candidate Master of Sports 1996 year

Passport

1. Ice and snow class
2. Altai, Katunsky ridge, Akkem valley
3. Belukha (V) summit — 4506 m via the right part of the NW wall, combined route
4. Proposed — 5B cat. sl., 3rd passage
5. Height difference: 1306 m, total length — 1800 m

1.1. Russian Mountaineering Championship. Ice and Snow Ascent Class

Report

On the first ascent to Belukha (V) peak via the right part of the NW wall by the team from the Mountain-Altai Emergency Rescue Service (PSS) of the EMERCOM of Russia, Gorno-Altaysk. Team Leader: Slobodchikov I.V. — 1st sports category Coach: Yakubovsky V.I. — 1st sports category Slobodchikov Igor Vladimirovich, 1st sports category, address: 659700, Altai Republic, Gorno-Altaysk, Kommunisticheskij Ave., 160, apt. 33. Yakubovsky Valery Ivanovich, 1st sports category, address: 659700, Altai Republic, Gorno-Altaysk, Altayskaya St., 26, apt. 2.

Passport

1. Class: ice and snow
2. Altai, Katunsky ridge, Ak-kem gorge

Ееаяха peak. 4500