Section R0–R1. Crossing a not very high bergschrund along the southern snowy slope, in some places along rock shelves, exit to a snowy pad. Control tour. Section R1–R2 · 200 m along crumbling rocks and snowy slopes with a total steepness up to 50°. Section R2–R3 · The first gendarme is passed on the left along the wall 55°. Convenient crevices for running belay. Section R3–R4: Rocks of medium difficulty along the counterscarp ridge. Section R5–R6: Rocks filled with ice. In some places, snowy overhangs and cornices. In the upper part of the section, the second gendarme is passed on the left. Section R5–R6: Ice ridge with rock outcrops.

XX-act OK-tropk

1. Class of ascent — rock
2. Re­gion of as­cent, ridge — Al­tai, Katunsky Belki ridge
3. Peak, its height, route of as­cent, na­ture of route: peak XX let Oktyabrya, 4167 m, via cen­tral coun­ter­fort from Ak-kem gla­cier, com­bined
4. Es­ti­mated dif­fi­culty cat­egory — (5a)
5. Main char­ac­ter­is­tics of route: height dif­fer­ence — 1267 m, length of 5th cat. dif­fi­culty sec­tions — 400 m, av­er­age steep­ness 57°
6. Pitons ham­mered: rock and stop­pers — 55, ice screws — 40, bol­lard pitons — none
7. Num­ber of trav­el hours — 10

ASCENT CERTIFICATE for Peak XX let Oktyabrya via the NE edge

1. Class — technical
2. Altai, Katunsky ridge
3. XX let Oktyabrya, 4280 m, via the NE edge
4. 4B category of difficulty, first ascent
5. Elevation gain 850 m, total length of the edge 1900 m, average steepness of the edge 40°
6. Pitons driven (for belaying only): rock — 3, bolt — 0, chocks — 0, ice — 31.
7. Climbing hours — 10
8. Overnight stops on the route — 1 (bivouac)
9. Team leader — Meshkov Igor Nikolaevich, Master of Sports

6. Bronya 3260 m

Gro­ma 25 cm. 2 mi­be­re:

• 800
• 1000
• 30
• 300
• 4000

10. 1000 res­se­mo­tseo, K. Akt­au­e 11, 12. 1125, 1125, 112. 112.85 r. Section R0–R1. Straight ridge 150 m. 40°. Section R1–R2. Ridge 300 m · 20°. Section R2–R3. 1st gendarme — key section. Two walls, through cracks and rocks 7–8 m., 80°. Total length of the section is 100 m., steepness 45°. 5 m. descent by

PASSPORT

1. Altai, Katunsky ridge, Akkem gorge.
2. Peak Bronya, 3260 m via South-Southwest ridge.
3. Proposed category 1B difficulty (ascents via this route have been made multiple times before).
4. Elevation gain 550 m, total length 2300 m.
5. Moving time 10 hours.
6. Leader: Drakin A.V. participants:

• Ziatkov N.I.
• Alshakov V.B.

Passport

I. Altai Katunsky ridge. Akkem gorge. 2. Mt. Boris, NE slope, height 3375 m. 3. Proposed 3A–3B cat. dif. (first ascent). 4. Elevation gain 550 m, length 1000 m. 5. Average steepness of the key section of the route 45–50°. 6. Climbing hours (from the base camp on Akkem lake and back) 15 h. 7. Used pitons: ice screws — 8 8. Leader: Drakin A.V. CMS Participants:

PASSPORT

1. Rock class
2. Altai, Katunsky ridge. Akkem lake area.
3. Assumed 1B category of difficulty first ascent
4. Height difference 800 m, length 1300 m.
5. 9.5 walking hours from the camp on the shore of Akkem lake to the camp
6. Drakin A.V. CMS
   • Belyaev P.A. 3rd sports category
   • Vinnikov K.E. 1st sports category
   • Egorov L.M. 3rd sports category

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