Ascent Log

Completed in the 1982 Leningrad City Alpinism Championship

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir range, Turkestan range, AkSu valley
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Petrogradets 5163 m via the center of the "south-east wall"
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B cat. diff. (rocky)
5. Route characteristics: height difference 4200–5163 m (963 m), length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category 490 m, sections with 5th cat. diff. — 395 m, sections with 6th cat. diff. — 95 m, average steepness 72°
6. Pitons driven: for insurance, rock — 122, ice — 0, bolt — 0, chocks — 39; for creating artificial anchors, rock — 29, ice — 0, bolt — 0
7. Number of climbing hours: 37 over 4 days
8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics: 3 overnight stays — shared (2 short lying, 1 — sitting)

Passport

1. Technical class
2. Pamir-Alai, Ak-Su gorge
3. Pik Petrogradets (5164 m), via the center of the southeast wall through the spall.
4. Assumed — 6A cat. tr. first ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 960 m, length — 1160 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. tr. — 640 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 74° (4200–5120 m), including 6 cat. tr.:
   • 83° (4560–4600 m)
   • (4700–4940 m)
   • (5020–5060 m)

5090 5120

PASSPORT

1. Technical class.
2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Karasu gorge.
3. Petrovgradets (5163 m) via the Eastern ridge.
4. Second ascent, 5B cat. sl. is assumed.
5. The length of sections with 6–5B cat. sl. is about 300 m, 5A cat. sl. is about 450 m. The average steepness of the main sections is 80–90° (4800–4900), 70–80° (4900–5000), all of them are 5–6 cat. sl.
6. Pitons hammered: rock, drilled, chocks, ice — 29, 27, 38.
7. Travel hours — 27, days — 3.
8. Two nights in a tent on the ledges.

Ascent Log

I. Technical category 2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Kara-Suu gorge 3. Peak Petrogradets (5163 m) via the eastern edge from the saddle between Peak Iskander (5120) 4. Proposed - 5B category of difficulty, first ascent 5. Elevation gain: 1413 m, route length - 1850 m Length of sections with 5-6 category of difficulty - 820 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route - 70° (4190-5000), including 6 category of difficulty - 85° (4720-4760), 60° (4760-4763), 105° (4810-4815) 6. Pitons driven | Rock | Ice | Nuts | Bolts |

Ministry of Sports and Tourism of the Krasnoyarsk Krai

KRASNOYARSK REGIONAL FEDERATION OF ALPINISM

Russian Championship in Alpinism

2014

Class: High-Altitude Technical

Report

On the ascent of the Krasnoyarsk Krai team to Peak Parus Western 4850 m via the north wall. First ascent, 5B category of difficulty. Krasnoyarsk 2014.

Ascent Passport

1. Region — Turkestan Range, Lyaylyak gorge area, Ashat gorge
2. Summit — Parus (3), 4850 m, via the center of the north wall

Parus (3rd peak), SW edge, cat. 5B 1480, 2043, 72°; 641 (39); 158 (39); 3/2; 5 days, 6 nights. 41 hours against Trench standard D. Egorov, I. Belyaev, S. Mikhailov, Ch. Khlyustikov (Masovy) from July 14 to 19, 1989 Photo-2. Route profile on the left (ridge) Taken from p. Ashat on July 13, 1989. S ≈ 5 km, H ≈ 2500 m, op/a. Silhouette - Elektro. Photo-3. Route profile on the right (triangle) Taken from the cirque of v. Parus on July 11, 1989. S ≈ 7 km, H ≈ 3500 m, op/a. Silhouette - Elektro.

Tactical Actions of the Team

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — technical 2. Ascent area — Pamiro-Alai, Turkestan Range, Uryam gorge 3. Peak 4800 m (Parus Vostochny) via the right part of the North-Eastern wall, rock 4. Proposed — 6A category of difficulty, first ascent 5. Height difference: 900 m, length — 1090 m, length of sections with 6A–6B category of difficulty — 305 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route: base of the wall — ridge — 74° (3900–4510), base of the wall — summit — 60° (3900–4800) 6. Pitons hammered on the route Friends 74/22; rock pitons 67/32; ice screws 0/0; chocks 75/28; drilled pitons 7. Team's walking hours: 4 hours and days — 5. 8. Night stay: 0 — 2nd under the route, comfortable in a tent, 3rd — on an inclined platform, sitting, 4th — on the ridge

43 I Championship of the All-Union Council of the All-Union Voluntary Sports Society (VDSSO) of Trade Unions on Alpinism 1989 Technical Class REPORT on the ascent (first ascent) to Peak 4800 m (Parus Eastern) via the bastion of the North-East wall, approximately 6A category of difficulty, by the team of the "Olimp" Alpine Club of the Sumy Regional Council of VDSSO Trade Unions from August 9 to 17, 1989. Team Leader: Mityukhin F.P. Team Coach: Mityukhin F.P. 1989. Addresses:

• "Olimp" Alpine Club of the Sumy Regional Council of VDSSO Trade Unions 244011, Sumy, Novomestenskaya St., 26

5.4 .2 .

4 АК

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Turkestan Range, Ashat gorge.
3. East Parus (4800) via North ridge, combined route.
4. Approximately 4800 m, diff. 6, first ascent.
5. Height difference — 800 m, length of sections V cat. diff. — 65 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 30°
6. Pitons hammered: