Khrebet Sarydzhaz

Ascent to Khan-Tengri peak via the eastern counterfort of the northern wall, the most difficult combined route of 6th difficulty category.

Report On the ascent of Khan-Tengri peak via the eastern counterfort of the northern wall from the North Inylchek glacier. Team of the CS "Lokomotiv" Conventions — — Route 1964 of the team DSO "Burevestnik" — — — Route 1970 of the team DSO "Lokomotiv" I. Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of the ascent object A. Geography of the area Khan-Tengri peak is located in the Tengri-Tag range, the second highest range of Tian Shan. The range is stretched in the latitudinal direction and serves as a boundary between the North and South Inylchek glaciers. Khan-Tengri peak is the most significant summit in the range, noticeably standing out among other peaks. The lower part of Khan-Tengri is composed of dark-colored limestones and shales, and the upper part is made of light marble. The boundary of the rocks forming the peak is very visible on the northern wall. The North Inylchek glacier is relatively flat and less dissected in its upper part. In the area of Khan-Tengri peak, it reaches an altitude of 4000 m above sea level.

Description of the first ascent via the right part of the East face of Khan-Tengri peak, 6995 m, 6B category of difficulty, climbed by the team in August 1988.

Passport High-altitude class Tian Shan, Tengri Tagh ridge Khan Tengri peak, 6995 m, via the right part of the East face Proposed - 6B cat. sl. first ascent Elevation gain: 1865 m, route length - 2280 m. Length of sections with 5-6 cat. sl. - 1270 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route is 64° (5220-6795), including 6 cat. sl. sections: 80° (5550-5570), 85° (5730-5755), 85° (5855-5865), 90° (6135-6155), 80° (6580-6590), 85° (6720-6760). Pitons used: | Rock | Bolt | Nut | Ice | | :--: | :--: | :-----------------: | :--: |

Report on the ascent of the combined team of climbers from the Caucasian Republican Council of the Spartak Sports Society to Khan-Tengri peak in 1968 via a new route from the north.

Kazakhstan Republican Council of the Spartak Voluntary Sports Society Report on the ascent of Khan-Tengri Peak (6995 m) from the north by a team of climbers in August 1968 B. Studenin, 68 Almaty 1968 Introduction

Climbing report on Peak Maksim Gor'kiy (6,050 m) in Tian Shan in 1959 via the northeast ridge, rated 5B difficulty.

Orography and Glaciation Peak Maksim Gor'kiy (6,050 m) is undoubtedly one of the most technically challenging peaks in the vast mountain range of Tien Shan. This beautiful peak rises above the middle part of the Stalin Ridge, with Peak Chapayeva (6,371 m) to the east beyond a saddle, and Peak N. Krupskaya (5,900 m) — still unclimbed — to the west, beyond a sharp drop in the ridge. Peak Maksim Gor'kiy has the shape of a giant trapezoid, sharply elevated above the ridge line. The summit ridge stretches from west to east for almost 2 km, with the highest point located in the eastern part, rising 150–170 m above the ridge. Three lateral spurs descend towards the South Inylchek Glacier: — southeast; — south; — southwest. Moreover, in their lower parts, these spurs branch out into a series of rocky ridges heavily glaciated, thus forming numerous rocky walls. The southeast and south spurs merge at around 5,900 m and then connect to the summit dome via a short ridge. All ridges are sharp and typically crowned with large cornices overhanging to the east. The southwest ridge extends to approximately 5,500–5,600 m, where it transitions into a steep edge. To the east, the peak drops with a 1.5 km wall into the multi-kilometer cirque of the Chapayev Glacier. Between the southeast and south ridges lies a cirque with the Karatash Glacier.