Kyrgyz Alatau

A description of the ascent route to the summit, divided into sections, with illustrations and a detailed analysis of technical difficulties.

Section 8

Ascent to Mount Everest via the Southeast Ridge, description of the challenging route, and key moments of the expedition.

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Description of the climbing route with a detailed analysis of sections and insurance features in different weather conditions.

The route starts from the bergschrund. In winter, the crevices are usually filled with snow and crossing the bergschrund is not particularly difficult. In summer, however, there may be a difference in the walls of the crevice of up to 3–5 m of sheer ice or very difficult firn that is challenging to belay. Section R0–R4: Ice slab with a slope of up to 50°. Alternating movement. Belay using ice screws. Section R3–R3: Rock islands covered with ice. In summer, due to the thin ice, the rocks may be exposed, so belaying is expected to be done using both ice screws and rock protection (pitons and nuts). Due to the specifics of the rock relief, thin rock pitons and small-sized nuts (preferably stoppers) are preferable. Section R4–R5:

Description of the first ascent of the Alamedin Wall (4550 m) in the Kyrgyz Range of Tian Shan via a Category III-V route.

II A C II O P O T I. Class — snow and ice Region — Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky ridge, Salk gorge Summit — Alamadinskaya wall (N), 4550 m Category — approximately 5B cat. dif., first ascent Height difference — 700 m, length — 1000 m Length of sections 5–6 cat. dif. — 880 m. Average steepness — 52° Pitons hammered in: | rock | bolt | nuts | ice | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :-: |

A photograph of the northern wall of Alamedin wall taken from a helicopter in 1989 from a height of 3800 meters.

PHOTO MI. Alamedin wall (C), north wall. Shot from a helicopter — February 1989, distance — 2 km, shooting point ㅅ, height — 3800 m. Lens — Т-43, focal length — 4/40

Ascent to Everest peak via South Col from Camp III (7250m) to the summit (8848m) with a description of technical details and key route moments.

Ascent to Elbrus peak via the classic route through Priut 11 from the north. Detailed route description, key difficulties, and necessary preparations.

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The route to Elbrus peak (4550) via the "normal route" through the "kosaia polka" with description and photographs.

4550

A description of the ascent route to Zakar, including technical information and a photograph from the summit.

Snapshot from the Transcarpathian summit

Ascent to the summit Alamedinskaya Stena (4550 m) along the Western ridge, difficulty category 4B, height difference 1065 m, average steepness 49°.

II ascents I. Climbing class: Technical Climbing region 7.4 (Tian Shan. Kyrgyz Ala-Too) Peak, its height, and ascent route Alamedinskaya Wall (N. peak) — 4550 m via Western ridge (ascent to N.). Proposed difficulty category: 4B Route characteristics: Elevation gain 1065 m Average slope 49° Length of sections: I — 510 m