I. Climbing category — rock climbing 2. Climbing area — Kyrgyzsky Ridge, Golubina lake area 3. Peak Ala-Archa 4088 m via Eastern ridge, route characteristic — ridge climb 4. Proposed complexity category — 3A 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 520 m, length — 880 m, including sections of 3*-4th cat. diff. — 90 m, 3rd cat. diff. — 350 m; average slope — 42° 6. Pitons hammered: rock — 17(0), chocks — 8(0), ice — 0 7. Duration — 12 hours 8. Overnight stays — none 9. Team leader — Kuzovov D.S., Master of Sports

Brief description of the route by sections

Sections R0–R2. Snow and ice slope. Simultaneous movement. Insurance through ice screws. Crossing bergschrunds via snow bridges. Sections R2–R4. Rocky gully and a series of walls. Rocks are destroyed, iced over. The most difficult section on the route. Insurance:

• pitons
• nuts In the upper part of the gully, behind a jendarme, there's a control cairn. Alternating movement. Sections R4–R5. Rocky ridge, very sharp. Loose rocks, everything is snowy, overhanging cornices! Insurance via rock outcrops. Alternating-simultaneous movement.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent classification — technical
2. Ascent region — North Tien Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too ridge, Ala-Archa gorge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Kyrgyzstan Peak (4840 m), via the central counterfort of the north wall.
4. Presumed difficulty category — 5B
5. Ascent characteristics: height difference — 1290 m average steepness — 80°, length of difficult section 5–6 hours, tr — 1040 m
6. Pitons hammered in: rock — 215 ice — 69, bolt — none, of which for creating belay anchor points — 48
7. Number of climbing hours — 47

Vostokovnits Route

on p. Teke-Tor from NE NE edge 1986 36 cat. diff.