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SSummitMateAscent to Mount Everest via the Southeast Ridge, description of the challenging route, and key moments of the expedition.
$ -7- $
SSummitMateDescription of the classic routes to the summit of Teke-Tor: category 3B route and Mukhamedov's category 3A route.
Teke-Tor (Category 3B). Muhamedova (Category 3A) 57.
SSummitMateTraverse of Uчитель (4527 m) and Еайчечекей (4515 m) peaks, difficulty category 2B, first ascent by a group led by M. Pronin on 8.07.84.
Traverse v. Uchitel', 4527 m — v. Kaichechekay, 4515 m, 2B — 7.08.84, Pronin M. — team leader, Timoshenko T., Fyodorov S., Timofeyev A.
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent route to the summit via the North wall, category 5A difficulty level, with traverse and overnight stays.
Photo MII General photo of the summit — team route route via N.face, 5A cat. diff. route via N.W. face traverse 5Е cat. diff. δ — control tower (○) — overnight locations The photo was taken on July 13, 1964, at 7°0, lens "Industar" 26 M, F=5 cm, distance to the summit 2 km, point M2, 3650 m.
SSummitMateDescription of the Polevoy 5B route to Simagin Peak with a detailed analysis of key sections and recommendations for belaying and descent.
Author: Dmitry Pavlenko, Bishkek Peak Simagina, Polevoy Route 5B The approach from Koronskaya Hut takes one to one and a half hours. From the bergschrund to the rocks, it's half a rope of ordinary ice. The authentic variant bypasses the lower rock leg on the left. The climbing is up to 5th category, but it's destroyed. I climbed straight up the leg. Climbing is 5+ and A1 with some artificial aids. In crampons, the second half of the rope can be climbed. The 60m rope ends just before a gap in the ridge where the authentic route comes out.
SSummitMate### Description of the first ascent of the North Face of Peak Svobodnaya Korea (4740 m) in Tian Shan, made in November 1999 by a team of climbers from Kyrgyzstan, complexity category 6A.
Free Korea. North Face (first ascent). 1999 approx. 6A category. Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Range. Passport Winter category. Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Ridge, Ak-Sai gorge. Peak Free Korea. North Face. 4740 m. Route 6A category (approx.) first ascent. Height difference of the route: 640 m (bergschrund 4100 – summit 4740). Route length 845 m. Length of the central part 285 m.
SSummitMateClimbing certificate for Kirgizstan Peak (4840 m) via the central counterfort of the north face, category 5B difficulty.
Ascent Passport Ascent classification — technical Ascent region — North Tien Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too ridge, Ala-Archa gorge Peak, its height, ascent route — Kyrgyzstan Peak (4840 m), via the central counterfort of the north wall. Presumed difficulty category — 5B Ascent characteristics: height difference — 1290 m average steepness — 80°, length of difficult section 5–6 hours, tr — 1040 m Pitons hammered in: rock — 215 ice — 69, bolt — none, of which for creating belay anchor points — 48 Number of climbing hours — 47
SSummitMateDescription of the "Vostokovnitsa" route, category 36 difficulty, to the peak of Teke-Tor via the North-Eastern edge.
Vostokovnits Route on p. Teke-Tor from NE NE edge 1986 36 cat. diff.
