Kuba-Kaya — 1. “Right to Left”
Difficulty: 5B VI A2 Authors: A. Lavrinenko, P. Shvets
Year of creation: 2009 Number of pitches: 11 Length: 405 m Time to complete: 6–8 hours Route description: The route goes to the left of the center of the wall along a series of internal corners, bypassing large cornices on the upper part of the wall from the left. The approach to the route is to the left of the lower bastion, through the forest for about 100 meters.
R0–R1: 55 m Start on a grey slab, direction towards the trees, then on easy rocks to a large grassy terrace. 10 m V; 45 m II
R1–R4: Along an inclined grassy terrace upwards to the right to a belt of rocks. 100 m easy
R2–R3: 30 m. Upwards on uncomplicated rocks to a group of trees. Belay station on a large juniper. II
R3–R4: 45 m. From the juniper upwards, through a slightly overhanging 10-meter wall onto a ledge, then climbing upwards to the right to a large juniper.
- 10 m VIA2
- 25 m V
- 10 m III
R4–R5: 25 m. Upwards, to a flattening, then upwards, in the direction of a cornice. Before reaching the internal corner leading under the cornice, belay station. IV–V
R5–R6: 35 m. Move to the right of the corner, then on a slab climbing to a passage under an overhanging little corner, and through it, upwards along the internal corner. Belay station on a bolt. VIA2
R6–R7: 15 m. Upwards, then to the left upwards, onto a ledge. On the ledge, belay station on personal anchors. V+
R7–R8: 45 m. From the belay station, cross to the left into an internal corner, then up the corner. Belay station on a bolt. VIA2
R8–R9: 40 m. From the belay station upwards along a crack, 8–10 m, then a complex pendulum to the left onto a thin crack. Upwards along the crack, under a cornice, then through cornices along overhanging corners, exit onto the yayla. Belay station on a tree. VIA2