Kuba-Kaya

Description of the "Pruha" route 6A to the eastern tower of Kuba-Kaya, climbed by Yu. Lishaev and D. Evseev in 2008, with a detailed description of the ascent and technical details.

Kuba-Kaya. East Tower. "Pruha" Route 6A (Yu. Lishaev — D. Evseev) The "Pruha" route goes along the reddish, overhanging wall. Climbed by Yuri Lishaev and Dmitry Evseev in 2008. On January 30 - February 1, the weather conditions made this the driest and least snowy route. Snow fell far behind our backs, and artificial protection points held in the frost just as they do in summer. The description and the thread of the first ascent were not very specific. Some pitons on the route were in poor condition, so we re-fixed our own at 2 belay stations. We climbed the first rope via our own, more logical path, and reached the beginning of the 2nd rope of the route. It's an interesting route, with more overhanging sections than on Chelebi on the Verba route. Kuba-Kaya, East Tower. "Pruha" route 6A 0-1 Up to the right, enter the inner corner. Climb up the corner. Rocks in the corner are reliably wedged, with a good crack on the left for protection. Exit to a small tree. From it, climb up and left to a ledge. There's a piton. 45 m V A1 1–2 Climb up through a system of cracks, with some pitons encountered. Gradually move right and up, bypassing destroyed overhangs. Despite the steepness of around 100°, the protection points are mostly reliable. Belay station on 2 pitons, hanging. There's no free climbing at all. 35 m A2+ 2–3 Climb up through an overhang, with increasing steepness. Almost all on pitons, but own protection points are also needed. Belay station on a gentler slope. Pitons are poor, but reliable hooks can be hammered in. 15 m A2

Description of the 1Б route to the top of V. bashnya in the Kubа-Kaya massif, 300 m long, divided into 5 sections with a detailed description of belay and terrain.

Kuba-Kaya (V. tower) — 1B “Paragliding” Massif: Kuba-Kaya (662 m); Complexity: 3B; Author: Leontyeva Ekaterina, Burakova Anna, Hristich Irina; Year of creation: 2014; Number of pitches: 5; Route length: 300 m From the road, approach through the butcher's broom bushes towards the wall, orienting yourself by a pronounced internal corner of reddish color, crossing the lower bastion of the eastern tower from right to left. The route has many loose rocks and earth, however, the stations are positioned so that when the first climber moves, nothing falls on the second. The rope must be 60 m. R0–R1 Station on a tree with two trunks, growing horizontally from a crevice and located 3 m above the ground. Start climbing not through the internal corner with a wide crevice, which begins from the station, but 1-1.5 meters to the left of it. Move upwards in the direction of a large, sprawling tree. From it, move up and to the left through the internal corner for about 10 m to reach the station. Station on a tree growing on the edge of a ledge.

The "Zigzag" route, category 3 complexity, to the summit of Kuba-Kaya (662 m), with a detailed description of the route, including tactical and technical details.

KubaKaya — 3. "Zigzag" Massif: KubaKaya (662 m) Authors: A. Lavrinenko, A. Kuzmenko Year of route creation: 2009 Route description: R0–R1: 55 m Start on a gray slab, direction towards the trees, then on easy rocks to a large grassy terrace. 10 m V; 45 m II R1–R2: On an inclined grassy terrace up to the right to a belt of rocks. 100 m easy R2–R3: 45 m. From the grassy terrace upwards, to 2 m large junipers, station on the left one. III R3–R4: 40 m. To the right, into an inner corner. Up the corner, then on easy rocks to the right upwards, in the direction of a rusty streak. Station on a tree. II

Description of the rock climbing route "Odessa 09" of 5B category of complexity on the Kuba-Kaya massif, with a length of 395 meters, consisting of 7 pitches.

Kuba — Kaya — 2. «Odessa 09» Massif: Kuba — Kaya (662 m) Complexity: 5B VI A2 Author: Lavrinenko A., Tsushko T., Kuzmenko Kolya Number of sections: 7 Length: 395 m Route description: The route passes to the left of the center of the wall along a series of internal corners, bypassing large cornices on the left in the upper part of the wall. Approach to the route is to the left of the lower bastion, through the forest for about 100 meters. R0–R1: 55 m. Start along a gray slab, direction towards the trees, then along simple rocks to a large grassy terrace. 10 m V; 45 m II

Description of the "Pravo na levo" (Right to Left) route 5B VI A2 on Kuba-Kaya, 405 m long, taking 6-8 hours, with a detailed description of sections and technical difficulties.

Kuba-Kaya — 1. “Right to Left” Difficulty: 5B VI A2 Authors: A. Lavrinenko, P. Shvets Year of creation: 2009 Number of pitches: 11 Length: 405 m Time to complete: 6–8 hours Route description: The route goes to the left of the center of the wall along a series of internal corners, bypassing large cornices on the upper part of the wall from the left. The approach to the route is to the left of the lower bastion, through the forest for about 100 meters. R0–R1: 55 m Start on a grey slab, direction towards the trees, then on easy rocks to a large grassy terrace. 10 m V; 45 m II R1–R4: Along an inclined grassy terrace upwards to the right to a belt of rocks. 100 m easy R2–R3: 30 m. Upwards on uncomplicated rocks to a group of trees. Belay station on a large juniper. II R3–R4: 45 m. From the juniper upwards, through a slightly overhanging 10-meter wall onto a ledge, then climbing upwards to the right to a large juniper. 10 m VIA2

Description of the "Marsala" route, category 5B difficulty level, to the top of Kuba Kaya in Crimea, technically challenging and involving crack protection and climbing.

Crimea, Kuba Kaya. "Marsala" Route, 5B Kuba Kaya, along the left edge of the tower v. Kuba Kaya Tsentralnaya, 5B, (S. Pugachev — P. Shvets, 2008) The technically challenging part of the route follows a pronounced, sometimes overhanging internal corner in the left part of the Central tower. Mainly, it's A1–A2 level aid climbing, with the upper 30 meters being IV-V category climbing. The length of this part of the route is 100 m. 4 pitons were left behind - at 12 m, 35 m, 45 m, and 70 m. It wasn't possible to fully commit and feel some kind of extreme; everything was calm and reliable. If you "connect" the upper part with the lower part of the "9 Marta" route, you get a full-fledged Crimean 5B. Crimea, Kuba Kaya. "Marsala" Route, 5B Crimea, Kuba Kaya. "Marsala" Route, 5B

Description of the "9 марта" 4A route to the top of Куба-Кая (Crimea), climbed in 2008 by P. Shvets and S. Pugachev.

Crimea, Kuba-Kaya. "9 March" Route, 4A Kuba-Kaya, via the right part of the tower to the top of Koba-Kaya Central, "9 March", 4A, (P. Shvets — S. Pugachev, 2008) Total length — 300 m Of which: IV-V category — 120 m A1 — 6 m The route was climbed as a "reconnaissance" and is unlikely to be repeated. There are 3 logical and beautiful options to ascend the Central tower, all not below 5B, and only the right part of it promised some relief. We chose the simplest option between the hangings of the lower belt and climbed. Within the first 30 m, we found holes for skyhooks and a drilled hole with a Chinese construction anchor as a sleeve (very fresh). Apparently, it was for rappelling, because further up, until the summit, we didn't encounter any more pitons. Further on, avoiding unnecessary adventures and bypassing all the steep but short walls, we approached the Central tower, chose the simplest of the three options — the left gap — and climbed it. Soon it turned out that it wasn't that simple to conquer in that short spring day. For environmental reasons, graffiti like "Kisa and Osya were here" are currently not in vogue, so we limited ourselves to a minimally harmful (but very useful for descent) drilled hole. The sun promised an early sunset, so we decided to ascend to the summit via the simplest route, i.e., via the right part of the tower and the western ridge. We found rocks of 4-5 category difficulty, местами разрушенные, but overall very pleasant and picturesque. To cap off the day, we were gifted a fantastic view when: the sea was shrouded in a pink mist all the way to the horizon,

Route of 3B category of complexity to the top of Kay in Crimea, length 320 m, time of passage 4-6 hours, 7 pitches.

Cuba — Kaya 6. "Seventh" Difficulty: 3B V Authors: Lavrinenko A., Shvets Year of route creation: 2009 Number of pitches: 7 Length: 320 m Time to complete: 4–6 hours Route description: Approach from the upper road straight through the bushes to the wall. The start is easy to find — the most logical and monolithic internal corner. R0–R1 60 m. Up left along the corner, protection — friends and pitons, mostly not difficult, but there will be a couple of steep walls. Station on the upper tree. (The most convenient place) IV R1–R2 35 m. Up the corner 15 m, then along its left edge bypass the red hanging rock from the left, and exit up to a tree. Station. IV R2–R3 50 m. Up through a system of cracks, through a small overhang, then up along the cracks, trending right, through a corner with a "cork", exit onto simple rocks. Then move left along large blocks. Station on a ledge. List: 10 m V 30 m IV 10 m II