Kuba-Kaya. East Tower.

"Pruha" Route 6A (Yu. Lishaev — D. Evseev)

The "Pruha" route goes along the reddish, overhanging wall. Climbed by Yuri Lishaev and Dmitry Evseev in 2008.

On January 30 - February 1, the weather conditions made this the driest and least snowy route. Snow fell far behind our backs, and artificial protection points held in the frost just as they do in summer.

The description and the thread of the first ascent were not very specific. Some pitons on the route were in poor condition, so we re-fixed our own at 2 belay stations.

We climbed the first rope via our own, more logical path, and reached the beginning of the 2nd rope of the route. It's an interesting route, with more overhanging sections than on Chelebi on the Verba route.

Kuba-Kaya, East Tower. "Pruha" route 6A 0-1

Up to the right, enter the inner corner. Climb up the corner. Rocks in the corner are reliably wedged, with a good crack on the left for protection. Exit to a small tree. From it, climb up and left to a ledge. There's a piton. 45 m V A1

1–2 Climb up through a system of cracks, with some pitons encountered. Gradually move right and up, bypassing destroyed overhangs. Despite the steepness of around 100°, the protection points are mostly reliable. Belay station on 2 pitons, hanging. There's no free climbing at all. 35 m A2+

2–3 Climb up through an overhang, with increasing steepness. Almost all on pitons, but own protection points are also needed. Belay station on a gentler slope. Pitons are poor, but reliable hooks can be hammered in. 15 m A2

3–4 Right and up, following the pitons. There are holes for sky hooks (10 mm), and some own protection points. Belay station before a cornice. 25 m V A2

4–5 Climb up a hanging crack (around 100°) for about 10 meters, then along a more gentle terrain, with some underclimbs. Belay station under a cornice. 2 pitons. 30 m V+ A2+

5–6 Bypass the cornice on the right. The first ascensionists went far to the right, leaving a piton on a bare slab. But the description and the drawing didn't mention this, so we climbed straight up, which turned out to be interesting.

Passage of the section:

• Up through an overhang
• On aid climbing - through small cracks
• Behind the overhang - right and up
• Further - good terrain, mostly climbing, exit to a pine tree
• From it - through a crack to a gentler slope

Belay station on a juniper. 45 m V A3

6–7 Up along a gentle slab, then up and left to a ridge, and further along the ridge. 40 m III

7–8 Up along the ridge, simple climbing, exit to a ledge. 45 m II Along the ledge to the right, around the corner, exit to a grassy slope, and down to the forest, to the road.

Kuba-Kaya, East Tower. "Pruha" route 6A, view from the right