Ascent Passport

Ascent Category — Rock Climbing

ASCENT AREA — CENTRAL CAUCASUS, PRIELBRUSIE, MONGOLIAN PEOPLE'S REPUBLIC PEAK NORTH-EAST via the South Ridge. Estimated category: 3B. Route characteristics: height difference — 530 m, average steepness — 45°, section lengths: I — 70 m, II — 150 m, III — 440 m, IV — 60 m. Pitons hammered on the route: for belay, for creating intermediate belay points: rock — 17, ice — , bolted — . Travel time — 8 hours. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics: none. Names and patronyms of the leader and participants: OSIPOV OLEG FYODOROVICH — CMS, leader; SALAZKO MIKHAIL NIKOLAEVICH — 1st category, participant; LAVROV NIKOLAI VLADIMIROVICH — 2nd category, observer; SNEZHKO YURIY VASIL'EVICH — 3rd category, observer. Team coach: Head of the training department at Adyl-su tourist center, senior instructor, Master of Sports of the USSR KUSSEL-MOROZ N.A. The ascent was made on August 14, 1978.

1st day. From the "Phelda" camp, the path goes along the right orographic slope of Adyl-su to the "Jan-tugan" camp along the road and further along the trail to the old camp approximately a kilometer from the Jan-tugan tourist center. Then the trail turns left and goes along a steep grassy slope between two forest masses. After ascending the grassy slope between the two forest masses, we come out onto the scree and then along a faintly expressed ridge, we ascend to the bivouac site below the VCSPC pass. The journey to the overnight stay takes 4–5 hours. 2nd day. From the bivouac, we reach the VCSPC pass. We descend along the steep scree onto the Kurmы glacier. Along the glacier, we approach a wide couloir coming from the saw-toothed ridge between the peaks Andyrchi Main and M.N.R. South. Along the wide couloir,

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М.­Х.­П. 3882 м.

В. М­H­P ХО­ХА­П Route to the summit — Route of descent

Brief Description of the Route

From the Adyl-su alpine camp, descend along the road to the confluence of the Kuriu River and the Baksan River. Then, ascend into the Kuriu gorge to the left (in the direction of travel) of the waterfall. Next, follow the trail to the cow shed on the moraine ridge. After passing the cow shed, proceed along the moraine to the tongue of the Kuriu glacier. Traverse the glacier, staying on the right-hand side, to the rocky shoulder below the peak MNR Severnaia. Set up a bivouac on the shoulder. The journey from the Baksan River takes 5-6 hours. From the shoulder, ascend along the glacier to a wide couloir between MNR Pikhnaya and MNR Tsentralnaya. Climb the couloir, bypassing an icy rocky outcrop on the left, and ascend 100 m to a col on a long ridge. From the col, ascend upwards and to the right along a pronounced internal angle for 60 m. Then, traverse 60 m to the right along ledges below overhanging "rusty" rocks. Continue upwards and to the left for 80 m along a wall and a chimney, exiting onto the southern ridge of the peak MNR Tsentralnaya. Ascend along the sharp ridge (the gandari can be bypassed on the left via ledges) and broken rocks to below the summit tower. Below the summit tower, descend 10 m to the left into a depression and ascend along an internal angle to the western ridge of the peak MNR Tsentralnaya. Continue along easy rocks and ledges on the ridge for 200 m to reach the summit of MNR Tsentralnaya. The journey from the initial bivouac takes 8-10 hours. Descend from the summit along the western ridge to a col between MNR Tsentralnaya and MNR Dro-Zapadnaya, and then down a wide couloir onto the Kuriu glacier plateau. Special equipment for 4 people:

1. Main rope 2 × 40 m.
2. Rock hammers — 2 pcs.
3. Carabiners — 8 pcs.
4. Rock pitons — 8 pcs.
5. Auxiliary cord — 5 m.

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Let's go up the upper part of the ridge for 10 m. (on the right there is a descent to the level of the chesnovoi kupurka, the struggle on the right is on the rocky gredemok 1:2). Having reached the gredemok, we turn to the right and go up along the ridge up to the chermmusa, to which a rope is attached to the rocky slope. The slope is traversed along the oimenitelnai wall, 6 ropes (along the slope) long. Then a perpendicular ascent to the right on the gredemok 1:3 is made along it to the wall. The end of the ascent is marked by a chermmusa, on the edge of which there is a large, crooked and picturesque acorn-like formation. On the descent route there is a ppoyragka insurance point. Duration = 6–7 hours

¹

в.­ МГП (IV on the С­ wall), 4Б­ cat.­ diff.