Pik Semionova Tien-Shanskogo

First traverse of the south-eastern ridge of the Peak Semionova-Tian-Shansky, Kyrgyz Ala-Too Range, 1987, 1st sports category.

I. The route is combined Kyrgyz Range, Ak-Sai gorge, Kyrgyz Ala-Too, Kyrgyzstan Republic Peak Semenova-Tyan-Shanskogo via the south-eastern ridge. First ascent. Height difference: 275 m, route length: 925 m, sections: I cat. dif. — 20 m, IV — 840 m, II cat. dif. — 40 m, II cat. dif. — 400 m. Pitons used: | Ice screws | Rock pitons | Nuts | | :------: | :------: | :------: | | 40 | 12 | 6 |

Route description along the rock wall with detailed characteristics of the terrain and recommendations on belay organization at various sections.

Route description by sections R0–R1 — steepness 80°, cracks, well-suited for 2.5–5 cm offset wired nuts, many loose rocks; R1–R3 — everything is available for organizing protection and free climbing; R3–R4 — monolithic wall 40 meters long with a steepness of 75°, smooth, passed through a crack 10–15 cm wide, very difficult climbing, as the crack edges are smooth, large nuts and cams are required for protection; R4–R6 — everything is available; R6–R7 — relief is shallow, mostly shallow cracks, climbed using positive holds, short pitons and small stoppers; R7–R8 — an open corner with a shallow crack 2.5–3.5 cm wide, crack is blind, relief is shallow — sloping shelves 1.5–3 cm wide, 20–40°; R8–R9 — the same as R7–R8, but with less steepness — 70°; R9–R10 — an open blind corner, walls are smooth, 2 expansion bolts were hammered and left for protection, at the exit from the corner there is an overhanging blind crack 3–4 cm wide, 50–80

Description of the ascent route indicating the categories of difficulty and length of the sections.

1 0 3 35–45 40 III–IV– 16 2 0 2 65–70 15 IV+V– 15 2 0 4 55–65 40 IV–IV+ 14 1 0 3 45–50 30 III–IV– 13 1 0 2 60–65 10 IV+V– 12 1 0 4 45–55 40 III–IV– 11 2 0 8 120024,07 KT. 75–80 30 V–V+ 10 2 0 8 45–60 70 III–IV– 9 2 0 2 70–80 10 V+ 3 1 0 6 55–65 30 V– 7 0 0 3 40–450 25 IV– 6 0 0 4 55–400 40 III+IV 5 1 0 8 55–70 60 IV+,V– 4 2 0 1 55–600 35 IV+ 3 0 0 1 15–250 20 II–III 2 0 2 0 45–500 80 III 1 KPT-113 11207914 KAT 16 N 44 Fig. 3. Route scheme in UIAA symbols (beginning).

Ascent to the summit of Taubinsky, 4100 meters high, via the northwestern counterfort.

н. Cewanoba-Tayбinowsкого 10,15 a.m. August 10, 2008

Ascent to the summit of Semenov-Tian-Shansky via route 4A category of difficulty.

ASCENT TABLE FOR Pik Semenova-Tyan-Shanskogo via route 4A cat. diff.

Ascent to Elbrus peak via the classic route through Priut 11 from west to east. Route description, key points, and necessary preparations.

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Route passport 5B cat. diff. to Semenov-Tian-Shansky peak via West wall, Kyrgyz Ala-Too range, Tian Shan.

Passport I. Category — technical. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz range, Ak-Sai glacier. Peak Semenova-Tian-Shansky, 4875 m, via the right part of the Western wall. Route 5B category of difficulty, combined. Height difference — 970 m, main part of the route height difference — 565 m, average steepness — 68–70 degrees, Length of sections with 5B–6 category of difficulty — 120 m. Pitons driven: rock blade pitons ice screw 57 0 64 4 IO 0 5 0

Description of the ascent route with a photograph of the mountain wall, taken on February 17, 1988 from a distance of 2 km from a height of 4300 meters.

Photo of the wall on the left. Taken on February 17, 1988 at 18:00. "Triplet" lens, Φ = 40 mm, distance 2 km, height 4300 m.

First ascent of the central bastion of the western wall of the peak Semenov-Tian-Shansky (4875 m) in the Kyrgyz Ala-Too range via a 6A grade route.

Ii a c ii o p t I. Technical class Tian–Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge Peak Semenova–Tian–Shansky, 4875 m, via central bastion of W. wall Proposed — 6A cat. dif., first ascent Height difference: 975 m, (main part of the route 560 m), length 2000 m length of sections with 5–6 cat. dif. — 480 m, average steepness of main part of the route 72° Pitons driven: | rock | bolt | chocks | ice screws |

Detailed description of a challenging mountaineering route across rocky and glacial terrain, highlighting key sections and technical maneuvers.

Description of the route by sections. sec. 0–I. Steep hard ice. sec. I–2. Destroyed rock wall. sec. 2–3. Snow-covered shelves. Control tur. sec. 3–4. Inner corner filled with ice, then a snow-covered shelf entering a steep rocky ridge. sec. 4–5. Along the ridge, first on the left in the direction of travel, then with the help of ITO, transition to the right part of the ridge. sec. 5–6. Steep rocky ridge leads to a snowy shelf. sec. 6–7. Wall with small gentle holds. sec. 7–8. Traverse through a couloir to a large shelf. sec. 8–9. Rocky wall, complex climbing, few holds, pendulum used for passage. At the end of the section, relief like "ram's foreheads".