Chkalova — Fizkultnik traverse, cat. 3A

Route description.

The starting point of the route is described in the ascent to Peak Chkalova via the Northeast ridge. The descent from the summit of Chkalova goes towards the summit of Fizkultnik along the destroyed ridge, which leads to the upper part of the Til glacier. Crossing its moraine, approach the heavily destroyed rocks. Overcoming the gendarme, proceed to the main, northern point of the Fizkultnik summit. Ascend via the outer corner (12–15 m), which leads to a ledge running along the western side of the summit tower (piton belay). From the main northern summit, descend in a southerly direction to the Northeast summit and, overcoming it, head southwest through a firn basin towards the western summit. The ascent to the western summit of Fizkultnik is along the ridge, and from it, at a distance of 200 m, is a technically straightforward path to the Southeast summit. Descend from the Southeast summit to the col between Peak Komsomola and the summit of Fizkultnik. From here, descend to the right branch of the Bogdanovich glacier and further down the glacier to the initial bivouac site in the area of the Talgar pass. The traverse takes 10–11 hours.

Recommendations:

1. Number of participants — 6–8 people.
2. Initial bivouac on the moraine of the Bogdanovich glacier.

Fizkulturnik - Chkalova, traverse, category 2B

Route description

From the initial bivouac in the Talgar Pass area, move along the Bogdanovich Glacier towards the saddle between Peak Komsomola and Fizkulturnik peak. From there, ascend to the ridge of Fizkulturnik peak, approach its base, and ascend to the southeastern summit. After descending, move along a relatively easy ridge towards the western summit of the Fizkulturnik massif. After ascending and descending from it, cross the cirque and ascend to the northeastern summit of Fizkulturnik. Then, the ridge, gradually rising, leads to the main summit. From it, descend to a sub-summit and continue descending to the left. The first gendarme after the main summit can be overcome directly or bypassed from the southern side (cautiously!). When ascending to the saddle between the first and second gendarmes, the section is hazardous (rockfall), and the rocks are heavily destroyed. The second gendarme is taken directly with thorough belaying. When descending from it, belaying is necessary; it is also possible to bypass it from the right - only if there is a deep snow cover closing the crevices. The following sections of the route:

• A gentle snow plateau in the upper reaches of the Til Glacier;
• Ascend between groups of rocks along snow-covered slabs;
• Move to the saddle between Fizkulturnik and Chkalova peaks;

Fizkulturnik 2A cat. sl. from Aiyak glacier

Description of the route.

The initial bivouac is in the area of Talgar Pass, through which the approach to the route is made. From here, the path to the summit is clearly visible. Crossing the terminal moraines of the Bogdanovich Glacier, approach the foot of the ridge. The Til Glacier can serve as a landmark. Ascend the smoothed rocky outcrops and "bighorn sheep's foreheads". Continue ascending along the talus and moderately difficult rocks on the left side of the Til Glacier. After 300 m, cross over to the glacier (insurance via ice axe, step cutting). Overcoming the glacier on crampons (there are crevices), approach the gendarme, which is overcome head-on. Behind the gendarme, ascend a small crumbly wall to the forepeak, which is taken head-on or bypassed on the right.

Full Traverse Route Diagram

from the southwest to the northeast of the Peak Kommunizm massif. The Peak Kommunizm massif is located in the Malo-Almatinsky spur of the Trans-Ili Alatau, in the Tian Shan mountains, in the upper reaches of the Komosomolka river, a tributary of the Left Talgar river. The absolute height of the Kommunizm massif is 4376 meters above sea level. There are six climbed routes to Peak Kommunizm, two of which are category 4B. The approach path to the Kommunizm massif is through the Abay pass along the moraine and the Bogdanovich glacier to the overnight stay at the southwest wall of Peak Kommunizm, category 4B.

General Characteristics

of the full traverse of the Kommunizm massif (from southwest to northeast). The route begins on the southwest wall of Peak Kommunizm, which has an elevation of 3770 m. The relative height of the southwest wall is 606 m. The overall steepness is 65–70°. On the right, the wall is bounded by a very steep, narrow snow-ice couloir starting from the very summit. On the left, there are a series of isolated buttresses dissected by narrow couloirs. The upper part features very steep, in places vertical, sections of great length. In the center of the wall, there is a steeply falling, weakly expressed buttress. (via peaks: Smena (4080), Uzhbinka (3910), Zub (3880), Snow Plateau (3825))