Route Description

The most convenient approach to the start of the route is via the Mametova Pass with a descent to the Byrdjiga Glacier. Here, on the moraine, the initial bivouac is set up. The exit to the route is in the lower part of the Byrdjiga Glacier. A long couloir, from the base of which the sharp peaks of the Aristov Peak are visible. Along a wide couloir that narrows sharply at the upper part, approach the so-called "gates" R1. Then straight up the walls, 1015 m with good ledges for belay stations, ascend to the eastern ridge under the summit tower. The summit tower is 2 steep walls up to 80° with small inclined ledges at the top. Then exit to the summit. Descent from the summit tower along the eastern wall on a rope (twice 40 m):

• First descent to an intermediate platform
• Second descent to the base of the tower From here, descend along the couloir with scree to the Byrdjiga Glacier to the initial bivouac. The ascent takes 8–9 hours.

Recommendations

1. Number of participants — 4–6 people.

Description of Aristov's route cat. diff. from the west

The most convenient approach to the start of the route is through the Mametova pass with a descent to the Byrdjiga glacier. Here, on the moraine, the initial bivouac is set up. The exit to the route is in the direction of the Aristov pass - a pronounced lowering between the Karlytau peak and the beginning of the ridge of the Aristov peak. From the Aristov pass, a straightforward ridge with two gendarmes follows, which are bypassed on the right via not steep snow shelves. Then, one should approach the summit tower and exit to the saddle via a snow couloir. Descent from the summit tower along the eastern wall on a rope (twice at 40 m):

• First - descent to an intermediate platform
• Second - to the foot of the tower From here, a descent along the couloir with scree to the Byrdjiga glacier to the initial bivouac. The ascent takes 8-9 hours.

Recommendations

1. Number of participants - 4-6 people.

Route Description

The approach to the start of the route is made via the Bogdanovich Glacier to the Komсомольский Pass. In the pass area, there is a starting bivouac. From it, the ascent begins along the northern ridge for 300 m towards the peak of Карлытау. At the very beginning, the ridge is gentle but icy; closer to the peak, the steepness increases to 35°. Here, one should descend to the ridge of the Aristov peak into a lowering referred to as the Aristov Pass. From the Aristov Pass, there is a straightforward ridge with two gendarmes, which are bypassed on the right via not very steep snowy ledges. Then, one should approach the summit pinnacle and exit to a saddle via a snowy couloir. The descent is made via the ascent route. The ascent takes 9–10 hours.

Recommendations

1. Number of participants: 4–6 people.
2. Starting bivouac: in the area of Komсомольский Pass.
3. Departure from the bivouac at 5:00 AM.
4. Equipment for a group of 4:

Route Description

Peak Aristova, named after one of the first Soviet climbers — Oleg Aristov, — is a rocky tooth and towers rising above the lateral ridge, which branches off from the Malo-Almatinsky spur at the location of the Karlytau peak. From there, the ridge stretches east-southeast for about 4 km, dividing the lateral valleys of the glaciers:

• Aristova
• Byrdzhiga. The initial bivouac is on the Aristova glacier plateau. The exit to the route should be no later than four hours, on a slope with a steepness of 55–60°. The ascent goes straight, a little south of a small group of rocks descending from the summit ridge. Deep snow cover:
• Creates convenience for ascending on beaten steps with insurance through an ice axe.
• Is avalanche-prone.