XVIII. Brief Explanation of the UIAA Scheme

The ascent along the snowy cone of the talus does not constitute part of the route but is considered a difficult section because the loose deep snow interspersed with ice blocks complicates movement. Sec. R0–R1 · Bergschrund — a crevasse perpendicular to the slope, the upper edge of which overhangs and acts as a springboard. Sec. R1–R2 · Firn couloir with a steepness of 50°. Sec. R2–R3 · Ice groove through a rock belt 50 m, up to 65°. Sec. R3–R4 · Firn slope with a steepness of 50°. Sec. R4–R5 · Entry onto the "ram's foreheads" along the line between the upper rock steps. Sec. R5–R6 · Snow-covered "ram's foreheads". Sec. R6–R7 · Rocky ascent 150 m, 60°. Sec. R7–R8 · Ice wall 40 m, exit onto a ledge between seracs. Sec. R8–R9 · Traverse left to bypass the icefall. Sec. R9–R10 · Snow ascent 30°. Entry onto the saddle. Sec. R10–R11 · Flat snow field towards the Eastern ridge of the North summit of Western Belukha. Sec. R11–R12 · Wind-swept ice ridge with rocky outcrops 45°, 500 m. Sec. R12–R13 · Summit ridge with snow cornice to the left, up to the North summit of Western Belukha 300 m. Sec. R13–R14 · 1000 m along a sharp snowy ridge traverse to the main summit of the Specified Belukha 4456 m. Caution, snow cornices! Sec. R14–R15 · Descent along the Western ridge of the main summit onto the Western plateau, 400 m vertically.

E­ca­sa3 4456

3

Ascent Passport

1. Region — Altai, Akkem valley.
2. XX let Oktyabrya — Belukha Zap. — Delone via East counterfort (4A) of the Western plateau, traverse.
3. Proposed — 5A category of difficulty variant.
4. Elevation difference 1500 m, length about 10 km. Average steepness of the wall part of the route — 55°, length — 1200 m.
5. Pitons hammered: rock — 30 ice — 20
6. Travel hours — 32, days — 7 (including 2 days of bivouac on the route due to bad weather).

Report

on the second traverse of the peaks XX let Oktyabrya — Delone along the central counterfort, main ridge, from Akkem glacier, 5B category of difficulty (KTMGV #1.31) by the team of Altai Regional Sports Committee and Gorno-Altaisk Rescue Service of EMERCOM of Russia. Team leader: Slobodchikov I.V. — 1st sports category. Coaches: Plotnikov I.A. — Master of Sports of International Class Yakubovsky V.I. — 1st sports category. 1996. PHOTO #2. Profile of the wall to the right of peak XX let Oktyabrya The photo was taken from Akkem glacier in 07.1994. Camera — "Smena-8M".

1. Geographical Location of the Climbing Area and its Sporting Characteristics The traverse of the Akkem Wall was carried out in the Central Altai region, in the highest area of the Katunsky ridge. This region is home to several peaks over 4000–4200 m, including the highest point in Altai - Belukha mountain (4506 m). The powerful double-headed Belukha massif (over 70 km), rising half a kilometer above the surrounding peaks, divides the entire Katunsky ridge into two parts, differing in height and character. To the west, the peaks do not exceed 3300–3400 m, rising only 300–400 m above the snow line and lacking significant snow cover. To the east of Belukha, the ridge continues, almost without descending, for about 50 km with peaks reaching 3600–4000 m. The main center of glaciation of the Katunsky ridge is the Belukha massif (the Eastern and Western peaks are separated by a relatively shallow saddle 40–50 m).

• To the north, the massif drops off with a very steep rocky wall over 1000 m high.
• To the south, it slopes more gently towards the surface of the Katunsky glacier. Six valley glaciers descend from the slopes of the Belukha massif, two of which (Katunsky and Chyorny), located on the southern and southwestern slopes, give rise to the Katun River, the main water artery of Altai. Most of the glaciation of the Belukha massif is concentrated on its northern slopes. From here:
• To the west flows the Myshutaiyry glacier (Kucherlinsky), giving rise to the eponymous river, which flows into the Katun.
• To the north - the Akkemsky glacier, feeding the Akkem River, also flowing into the Katun.