Object 18413206

Glacier0.01 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Description of the first ascent of the Kelbashi peak (3243 m) via the northern ridge, complexity category 3А₃, with a detailed analysis of the route and technical characteristics of the sections.

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FIRST ASCENT ROUTE DIAGRAM (according to UNAF) to the summit of Kelbashi via the North ridge ~16 km

I+ The summit of Kelbashi (3243 m, photo I) is situated in the Sofiyskiy ridge between the Stolichny and Karadjasch passes. It is present on all topographic maps. The name is local. The first ascent was made by a group led by S.A. Chuеnko in January 1982 as part of the traverse "60 let KChAO–Peshtera–Septemvri–Kelbashi". This route is categorized as 3A. From the Karadjasch pass to the summit of Batak via the south ridge, there is a categorized route 2A. The present first ascent was made within the framework of the Stavropol krai sports committee alpinada "Arkhyz-88" by members of the rescue team of this event. The north-eastern slopes and part of the north ridge up to the junction with the spur running down to the summit of Septemvri (see the orographic diagram) are covered with ice. Only the summit area is free of it. From the "Syrzavod" base camp, the path initially follows the Kashka-Ecshek stream, then in the direction of the saddle between the summits of 60 let KChAO and Peshtera. Approximate time — 3 hours.

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Description of the first ascent to the unnamed peak 3130 m in the Sofiyskiy area of Arkhyz along the southern ridge from Karadjasch pass, difficulty category 2A.

February 22, 1982

ASCENT DOCUMENT

ASCENT CLASS— Rock climbing
ASCENT AREA— Western Caucasus, Northwestern spur of the Sofiyskiy ridge to the north from the Karadjasch pass, 3130 m
PEAK, ROUTE— "BATAK" (proposed by the first ascenders) via the southern ridge from the Karadjasch pass
EXPECTED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY— 2A
ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS— Ridge route, absolute elevation gain 330 m
NUMBER OF PITS SET— 2 (on the ascent)
DURATION OF THE ASCENT— 3.5 hours
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A description of the 4A category climbing route along the Kara-Jash ridge in the Western Caucasus, with a detailed description of the path, obstacles, and necessary techniques.

Passport

  1. Section number according to KMGV — 2010 — 2.1. Western Caucasus, mountain region — Arkhyz, Orlenok gully, mountain massif (ridge) Kara-Jash
  2. Names of peaks: 2900 m (Kara-Jash North-East) — Kara-Jash (3171) — 3170 — 3201 (NRB) — 3226 (Taulan, «Dimitrov-100»)
  3. Heights of peaks: 2900–3171–3170–3201–3226
  4. Route: traverse of peaks: 2900 m (Kara-Jash North-East) — Kara-Jash (3171) — 3170 — 3201 (NRB) — 3226 (Taulan, «Dimitrov-100») from north-east to south
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Description of traversing the ridge with ascents to the Kara-Jash and other peaks, complexity category 3.4, with illustrations and route excerpts.

Bugaratov Ksenets, Arasi, Valia Orgenei Vershye — 2006 (Kara-Dezhi N-E), Kara-Dezhi (3171), 3178 — 3201 (NRB), 3226 (Turgene, Denisphona) (3227) Route: "Tramers mershin 2006 (Kara-Dezhi N-E) — Kara-Dezhi (3171) 3178 — 3201 (NRB)" Krovec, Illyandota, 44 c.c. (Klaboporgonizsy) Photo from balia Orgenei — Third section promerce — route 3.4 c.c. passing the central part of the traverse — Kara-Jash — 3170 — 3201 (NRB)

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Report on the first ascent of the traverse of the peaks Kel, 3200, and Kelbashi via the eastern wall and ridge, made by a group of climbers on August 8, 2010, with a complexity category of 3B.

Report on the First Ascent of the Traverse v. 3150 (Kel) — v. 3200 — v. 3243 (Kelbashi) via the E Wall and E Ridge

Approximate difficulty: 3B category. Completed by the "Ushba" Climbing Club team on August 8, 2010, under the leadership of Dmitry Anatolyevich Lyublinsky. Address: Russia, Saratov, Khimicheskaya St., 7, apt. 154, phone: (8452) 911 633, +7 927 109 21 10

Climbing Report

  1. Type of ascent: Combined
  2. Region: Caucasus: Sofiya Valley
  3. Peak, route: v. 3150 (Kel) — v. 3200 — v. 3243 (Kelbashi) via the E Wall and E Ridge
  4. Anticipated difficulty: 3B, category: first ascent
  5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain — approximately 270 m, route length — approximately 1615 m,
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Description of the ascent route to the summit via the pass and a col at an altitude of 3150 meters.

product under the start of the route v. 3150 (kel)

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Ascent to Elbrus peak via the classic route with a glacier, 65 km long and 2700 m elevation gain.

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Description of the traverse of the peaks 60 let KChAO, Peshchera, Septemvri and Kelbesh in the Western Caucasus, difficulty category 3A, climbed in January 1982.

CharacteristicValue
CLIMB CLASStraverse
CLIMB AREAWestern Caucasus, Arkhyz, northern spur of the Sofiyskiy ridge between the valleys of the Psyysh and Sofiya rivers
PEAK ROUTE60 let KChAO, Peshtera, Septemvri (proposed by the first ascenders), Kelbashi
ASSUMED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY3A (winter)
ROUTE DESCRIPTION– Rock and snow, mostly ridge, absolute altitude difference 643 m
NUMBER OF PITOONS12
NUMBER OF TRAVERSE HOURS12 hours (from the start of the route to the summit of Kelbashi)
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