Traverse of peaks Ozyorny - Khimik, combined, Category 3

Route description:

From the Ulutau alpine base through the sports ground, where the trail begins, which goes past the former "Churko dorm", then along the stream (to the left of the stream), flowing from under the glacier on the northern slope of the "Treugolnik" peak. Further, the trail turns left and goes along the rocky outcrops to the training rocks "over the camp". Here the trail is lost, you need to move up the grassy slopes to the moraine deposits and further along the moraine deposits and ascents up past the cirques of the Treugolnik and Moskovsky Komsomolets peaks to Ozyorny lake. There are bivouac sites near the lake. Going around the lake to the right, you come out onto the Ozyorny glacier. Straight ahead will be the ridge between peaks Zimny and Ozyorny (a pronounced depression in the ridge). You need to move not to this ridge, but to move along the glacier to the right along the long "fence" of the Northwest ridge of peak Ozyorny to a wide snow, in the lower part scree, couloir with a clearly visible ridge in the ridge before the gendarme. Up the couloir to the right past rocky outcrops (to the right) to the ridge. The first gendarme is bypassed on the left along the shelves, then exit to the right onto the ridge and further along the ridge to the next gendarme, which can be bypassed on the right along the shelves and come out onto a large snow ridge, from which the pre-summit snow and ice ascents open up. Here it is possible to organize a bivouac, since further movement goes entirely on snow, which in the second half of the day becomes very soggy.

172. Svetgar East via the North Edge (combined route, K. Tolstova, cat. 4B, fig. 24, 27). From the col between the North and East summits of Svetgar (route 171) go left and 200 m up destroyed rocks and a gently sloping snow-ice slope on the right side of the first rocky outcrop of the North Edge, then along moderately difficult rocks of the North Edge to a ledge. 1.5 hours from the col. From the ledge, along moderately difficult rocks, passing a shoulder, reach a snow-ice slope. Then go 300–400 m up a steep snow-ice slope-ridge with rock outcrops (covered crevasses, cornices) to below the second rocky outcrop of the North Edge. Below the second outcrop, at the boundary between ice and rock, go right. Then go 60–80 m up rocks of above-average difficulty («loose» stones) to a snow-ice slope. Then go 30–40 m along a steep snow-ice slope, then along rocks of above-average difficulty to below the Big Gendarme. From below the gendarme, 30–40 m to the right and along rocks of above-average difficulty with short difficult sections of a corner-couloir, 60–80 m up to a ledge behind the Big Gendarme. From the ledge, 150–200 m up a snow-ice slope, a ridge, and difficult rocks of the North Edge. Then go 280–300 m along the steep, sharp snow-ice (cornices) North Edge, overcoming II and III gendarmes head-on, and IV and V gendarmes, bypassing them on the right («loose» stones), to ascend to the summit of Svetgar East. 10–12 hours from the initial bivouac.

Fig. 6

Т­Ю­Т­Ю Рис. 10 becomes Т­Ю­Т­Ю Fig. 10

272. Ullutau Western peak via Western ridge (combined route, category 2B difficulty, fig. 18, 30).

The path from the Ullutau alpine camp (group of 4-20 people) to the initial bivouac on the Garvash pass is described in route 278. From the saddle platforms, follow the straightforward, heavily damaged and snow-covered (cornices) rocky Western ridge, passing three ascents, to approach the Teeth, which are bypassed by traversing from the left, and then approach the wall (5-8 m high). The wall is overcome directly via medium-difficulty rocks (pitons insurance). Then, along a narrow 40-60-meter ridge, approach the couloir on the right side of the Western ridge ("live" rocks, insurance). Up the steep rocks on the left side of the narrowing snow-covered 80-90-meter couloir - ascent ("live" rocks, pitons insurance) to the Western shoulder. From the Western shoulder, ascend to the summit of Ullutau Western peak via the rocks of the Western ridge. From the Garvash pass, it takes 3-4 hours.

Fig. 30

Peak Aviazii via the western ridge through Kurmychi peak, category 1B difficulty

Ascend to Kurmychi peak via the SE ridge (category 1B route). From the top of Kurmychi, descend along the broad snow-covered, scree-filled eastern ridge to a small snow plateau. From the plateau, follow a broad snowy ridge, then a broad, heavily broken simple rocky ridge, bypassing small gendarmes on the right (belay!), to ascend to Peak Aviazii. The journey from Kurmychi peak takes 1–1.5 hours. Descend via the ascent route. The duration of the route is 1 day.

Peak Avatsii 16th northwestern 56a, cat. difficulty 4B The path from the Shhelda camp through the Kurmy gorge or via VTsSPS. From the camp to the overnight stay takes 5–6 hours. We approach the wall along the snow, intersected by sloping couloirs. We enter the rocks in the right part of the right couloir. Further, we move on the left side of the couloir. Movement along the snow is possible. It is not recommended to exit to the middle part of the couloir (rockfall hazard). On the right, the couloir is fenced by four pointed gendarmes. Behind the last one, to the right of the couloir, there is a platform for an overnight stay and a control cairn. From the platform, we move up the snow-ice slope on its left (in the direction of travel) side. We move under the base of the couloir, separating the main wall massif from the rocky outcrop. We ascend the couloir upwards (approximately Zverevki). Staying on the left (in the direction of travel) side, we ascend to the base of a sheer wall. Then we traverse to the right along a randkluft to a rocky ridge in the ice slope. There is a bivouac site. From the bivouac, we ascend difficult rocks of the ridge, sometimes using pitons for support, and exit to the western wall descending from the summit. Along the wall, we ascend one rope length to a wide inclined ledge. Along the ledge, we move to the right and further upwards along a small groove, exiting to the pre-summit ridge.

А­Х­SУ via Western ridge, cat. 2А From the CSP:

• go up along the trail on the slope of the «Shkhelda gorge» — first through the forest, then along the grassy slopes — to the Shkhelda glacier;
• 300 m above the glacier's tongue, exit onto its lateral moraine;
• follow the moraine, keeping to the right bank of the glacier, and move about 500 m up the gorge;
• then exit to the right onto the trail;
• ascend along the trail on the grassy slope along the glacier to the clearing near the rocks with black stripes — Aristov's bivouac.