Peak Avatsii 16th northwestern 56a, cat. difficulty 4B

The path from the Shhelda camp through the Kurmy gorge or via VTsSPS. From the camp to the overnight stay takes 5–6 hours.

We approach the wall along the snow, intersected by sloping couloirs. We enter the rocks in the right part of the right couloir. Further, we move on the left side of the couloir. Movement along the snow is possible.

It is not recommended to exit to the middle part of the couloir (rockfall hazard).

On the right, the couloir is fenced by four pointed gendarmes. Behind the last one, to the right of the couloir, there is a platform for an overnight stay and a control cairn.

From the platform, we move up the snow-ice slope on its left (in the direction of travel) side. We move under the base of the couloir, separating the main wall massif from the rocky outcrop.

We ascend the couloir upwards (approximately Zverevki).

Staying on the left (in the direction of travel) side, we ascend to the base of a sheer wall. Then we traverse to the right along a randkluft to a rocky ridge in the ice slope.

There is a bivouac site.

From the bivouac, we ascend difficult rocks of the ridge, sometimes using pitons for support, and exit to the western wall descending from the summit. Along the wall, we ascend one rope length to a wide inclined ledge. Along the ledge, we move to the right and further upwards along a small groove, exiting to the pre-summit ridge.

We ascend on the right side of the ridge for about 3 rope lengths — rocks of medium difficulty:

• Ascend one rope length to the base of a 4-meter internal corner.
• Ascend the corner and traverse horizontally to the left.
• Exit to rocks of medium difficulty, along which we reach the summit.

The ascent to the summit from the overnight stay on the moraine (or VTsSPS pass) takes 15–16 hours.

The descent from the summit via the route of category I-B difficulty to the Kurmy-Auz glacier through a waterfall to the overnight stay on the moraine (or VTsSPS pass) takes 3–3.5 hours.