Ascent Passport Terskolak (NW) 2B, via S slope and W ridge

Table of Contents

• APPROACH
• ASCENT — start
• ASCENT — glacier
• ASCENT — gendarme
• ASCENT — wall
• DESCENT
• ROUTE SECTIONS TABLE
• APPENDIX 1

From the Baksan valley, through the Donguz-Orun pass, we enter the Nakra valley. Along the trail, which follows the left (orographically) bank of the Nakra River, we reach the confluence of the Kvish and Nakra rivers. We cross a small bridge over the Kvish River and begin ascending along the left (orographically) bank of the Kvish River to the left lateral moraine. There are areas for overnight stays in the upper part of the moraine. The journey from Terskol to these areas takes around 10 hours. From the moraine, staying on the right side (as we move forward), under the slopes of v. Leyrag, we pass onto the plateau under the Kvish pass. The ascent to the Kvish pass can be challenging, depending on the season. In August, there is steep, razored ice. The ascent to the Kvish pass is to the left of the icefall, sticking to the rocks. A rock ascent is possible. The rocks are of medium

PASSPORT

I. Technical category 2. Central Caucasus, Elbrus region 3. Chatyn Glavny peak via the bastion of the Eastern wall 4. Assumed 5B category of complexity, first ascent. 5. Elevation gain 1950 m, length — 3250 m. Length of sections with 5B-6 category of complexity — 640 m. Average steepness of the main sections: bastion 70° (3592–4060), buttress 59° (3216–3592), including 6 category sections: 252 m (3320–3380), (3742–3780), (3815–3855), (3987–4045). 6. Pitons driven: rock 73/0; bolt pitons — 2/2; chocks 163/0; ice screws 34/0. 7. Team's travel time 33 hours and days — 2.5.

Ascent Passport

1. Technical class.
2. Central Caucasus.
3. Peak Chatyn Glavny via the "diamond" on the N face, Myshlyaev's route.
4. Complexity category — 6.
5. Elevation gain: 830 m, length 1010 m, length of 5–6 sections — 540 m. Average steepness of the route is 65°. Major sections 83°.
6. Pitons driven: | Rock | Bolts | Ice | Chocks | | :--- | :---- | :--- | :----- | | 109 (48+) | 76+ | 16/3 | 50 |

1. Climb characteristic: technically challenging.
2. Climbing area: Adyl-Su gorge, Central Caucasus.
3. Climbing route with indication of peaks and their heights: Cheget-Kara-Bashi peak via the northwestern ridge, 3667 m.
4. Climb characteristic: height difference 750–800 m, average steepness from 45° to 60°, length of difficult section 15 m, 10 m, 40 m.
5. Number of pitons: rock — 10, ice — –, drill — –.
6. Number of walking hours: 10.
7. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics: –.
8. Team name: "Elbrus" alpine camp.
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants, and their qualifications:
   1. Plemyalkov Pavel Kirillovich — Master of Sports of the USSR.

293. Shkhelda Zapadnaya — Shkhelda Vtoraya Zapadnaya (route is combined, O. Aristova, category 3B, fig. 32, 41). From Shkhelda Zapadnaya (point 290) descend to the saddle along the easy-to-pass, but destroyed Eastern ridge. Then, move along the easy-to-pass jagged ridge, overcoming gendarmes head-on (“live” rocks, belay), reach the saddle below the Western ridge of Shkhelda Vtoraya Zapadnaya. 1.5–2 hours from Shkhelda Zapadnaya peak. From the saddle, ascend along the easy-to-pass rocks of the Western ridge, overcoming gendarmes head-on, and move to the rocks of medium difficulty below the rocky ascent. Traverse the ascent from the right (rocks) along a steep ice-and-snow slope. Then,