277. Mazeri East via East Ridge (a combined route, I. Solodueva, cat. 5A, fig. 32, 40). From Okhotnichye Ploshchadki (point 258), cross Ushbinsky Glacier to the right (closed crevasses) and ascend its southeastern branch to Mazeri Pass, located between the wall of South Ushba and the first pinnacle of Mazeri East Ridge. From the glacier, bypassing the bergschrund on the right, ascend a steep snow-firn slope (falling rocks from Ushba walls) and steep moderate rocks to Mazeri Pass. For the ascent path to Mazeri Pass from Gulsky Glacier, see point 256. From the pass, ascend easy rocks of the East Ridge to the first pinnacle (cairn). Bypass the second pinnacle on the left via crumbling ledges, then reach a notch. From the notch, ascend steep easy and moderate rocks of the East Ridge with a 3-4-meter difficult wall to the third pinnacle, from where a 25-30 m rappel descends to a col beneath the fourth pinnacle. Overcome the fourth pinnacle, and then the fifth ("Tower") directly via easy and moderate snow-covered rocks of the East Ridge with a 30-40 m rappel to a col area (cornice). Continue along the East Ridge:

• a small snow-covered seventh pinnacle (cornices);
• descend from the ridge to the left and traverse via crumbling rocks of moderate and above-moderate difficulty,
• crossing snowy-ice gullies,
• ascend a steep snowy slope to a snowy notch of the East Ridge of the seventh pinnacle with "Mazeri Gates". From the notch:

¹

1st day. From the "Phelda" camp the path goes along the right orographic slope of Adyl-su to the "Jan-tugan" camp along the road and further along the trail to the old corral approximately 1 km from the Jan-tugan hostel. Then the trail turns left and goes along a steep grassy slope between two forest areas. After ascending the grassy slope between two forest areas, we come out onto the talus and then along a faintly expressed ridge we ascend to the bivouac site below the V.Ts.S.P.S. pass. The journey to the overnight stay takes 4–5 hours. 2nd day. From the bivouac, we exit onto the V.Ts.S.P.S. pass. We descend along the steep talus onto the Kurmy glacier. Along the glacier, we approach a wide couloir coming from the pilot-shaped ridge between the peaks Andyrchi Main and M.N.R. South. Along the wide couloir,

Mukal 22. Mukal via the Eastern ridge (the route by S. Golubev, M. Galkin, M. Zeidler, A. Kuchar, P. Panyutin, N. Steynogl, V. Shteyn 1B cat. diff., 20 August 1914). From the village Verkhniy Baksan ascend along the road by the left bank of the Kyrtyk river. Having entered the Kyrtyk gorge, immediately turn left onto the trail and ascend along the first stream — the Syltransu river — through the pine forest and further across alpine meadows, after which the trail ends. From here, ascend along the talus and moraines by the river towards the Syltrangel lake. At the south-eastern (left) bank of the lake is the initial bivouac. From the village Verkhniy Baksan 4.5–5.5 hrs. From the lake, ascend along the talus, then along the glacier to the saddle between the peaks of Syltran on the left and Mukal on the right. From the saddle, turn right and ascend along the snowy slope to the large gendarme of the Eastern ridge of the Mukal summit. Bypass the gendarme along the snowy slope on the right and then along the snowy ridge-slope, then ascend along simple rocks to the summit of Mukal. From the saddle, about 1 hr. Descent follows the ascent route. Duration of the route is 2 days. “Baksanskaya dolina”, A.F. Naumov

48. Nakra via the Southwest Ridge (Route 2A cat. difficulty). From the “Baksan” alpine camp (group of 4–8 people) head in the direction of Donguzorunkel lakes, as described in route 44. Before reaching the second (upper) small lake, turn left off the trail, cross the Donguzorun river, and ascend via talus, then a snowy slope, to the bergschrund below the false Donguzorun pass. Having crossed the bergschrund, ascend a 120-meter snowy slope to the saddle of the Northwest Ridge of Nakra peak — the false Donguzorun pass, located on the ridge to the left of the Donguzorun pass. From the saddle, descend 80–100 m down severely fragmented easy rock (loose stones!) to the snowy slope of the Western Nakra glacier. From here, go left, bypassing talus on snow to the right, and ascend via snowy

As­cen­sion along the North­ern coun­ter­force and North­west

De­scrip­tion of Shar­ni­rog

From the ridge of the Bok­tu­zu­ruk hinge to the North, compressed between the North­ern coun­ter­forc­es of v. Ka­za­ra and 300–400 m away from them, be­hind large boul­ders, by­pass­ing the last corn­er of the na­ga­to­go. The en­trance to the boul­ders of the root and the growth are at­trib­uted to the whole Shar­ni­rog. With beds along sim­ple ris­ing ter­rain, com­pressed coun­ter­force wool up­wards. Solid­i­fi­ca­tion with hard 60 m along the spe­cif­ic corn­er with a сквоз­nym for­est, then 150–200 m along com­pressed me­dium-dif­fi­culty ter­rain to mi­nua­da­li. Above the skill com­pressed with skele­ton (along mi­nua­dale konzro­reyevom 150). Skill-ful wool, en­circled from the left. Be­hind it up­wards along com­pressed

331. Nenskra via the North Face (combined route, A. Snesareva, category 4A, fig. 32, 44). From the initial bivouac on the snowy plateau of the Nenskra Glacier under the North Face of Nenskra Peak, ascend via an avalanche couloir, then via easy and moderately difficult rocks, interspersed with snowy slopes and small walls (loose rocks), to the Upper Rock Belt. From here, via steep, heavily broken rocks of above average difficulty, ascend to the Upper Rock Island. Then, via a steep ice-snow slope with rock outcrops, ascend to the col on the ridge between the Southwest and Northeast summits of Nenskra. From the glacier plateau, 7–8 hours. From the col, turn right and ascend via easy rocks of the ridge's spur to the summit of

НЕН­СКРА НОР­THEAST SOUTH-WEST Fig. 44. Nenskra ridge

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock
2. Ascent area — Central Caucasus, Main Ridge
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — p. Olimpiycev, 3805 m, via the western ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 2A
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 200 m
   • average steepness — 40 m
   • length of section I — 400 m
6. Number of travel hours — 2

32. Western summit of Elbrus via the Western shoulder (route category 2B, fig. 8–10). From the village of Terskol, ascend first along the road, then along the trail on the right side of the Azausue valley and, after 4 hours, reach the initial bivouac at the Old Panoramic Viewpoint (Stary Krogzor) located on the southernmost (southeastern) spur of the Elbrus massif. From the Panoramic Viewpoint (departure at 2–3 am) turn left and via the moraine, and then along the Maly Azau glacier, reach the snowy plateau. Across the plateau (covered crevices!), then along a small, gently sloping snowy slope, reach the rocky ridge to the right (north) of the Khotiu-Tau pass and the Nameless avalanche glacier descending into the Ullukam valley. From the Old Panoramic Viewpoint, 4–4.5 hours. Here, turn right and along the simple rocks of the ridge, reach the rocky ridge descending into the Ullukam valley, along the right bank of the avalanche glacier. Traverse this ridge and along simple, in places moderately difficult, destroyed, snow-covered (cornices!) rocks of the ridge, ascending in the direction of the Western shoulder, reach the snowy ridge. Along the sharp (cornices!), then wide snowy ridge, ascend to the Western shoulder of the Elbrus massif. On a small snowy saddle to the right of the shoulder — bivouac. From the Khotiu-Tau pass, 3–5 hours. From the saddle, ascend northeast along the snowy fields with gradually increasing steepness, traverse left to avoid the Western summit of Elbrus and reach below the northwestern rocky ridge of the Western summit. From here, along the simple rocks of the ridge or along the snow beside the rocks — a steep ascent to the Western summit of the Elbrus massif. From the shoulder, 5–6 hours.