Ascent Log

1. Ascent category: rock climb
2. Ascent area: Kabardino-Balkaria, Baksan River basin, upper reaches of
   • Kamyk-Su River
3. Peak, route: Gnitche-Tyrnyauz, 3555.6 m, via the Southwest Ridge
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 2A, first ascent
5. Elevation gain: 650 m
   • total route length — 1000 m
   • average steepness of the route — 50°
6. Number of placements: 4

Passport

I. Technical class 2. Central Caucasus 3. Ascent via the right buttress of the East wall. 4. Proposed - 5th category of difficulty, first ascent 5. Height difference: 910 m, length - 1275 m. Length of sections with 5-6 category of difficulty - 415 m. Average steepness of the main sections 54° (2900-3810 m). Including 155 m (83°) of 6th category of difficulty; 6. Pitons hammered: rock hatchet pitons ice 89/7 none 49/0 0/0

V. Dzhantugan

via the 103 ridge, cat. III complexity. Route scheme in UIAA symbols (September 2, 1987) 5:00 — departure from "Zelyonaya gostinitsa" (Green Hotel). 8:00 — Dzhantuganskoye plateau. 9:00–12:00 — summit. The pass between

Description

First Ascent of Djan-Tugan

Via the North-West Ridge

This ascent involved 8 people (the "Lokomotiv" team) divided into two groups of four, with a 1-hour interval between them. First group:

• Garf (team leader)
• Karavaev
• Povarnin
• Sharunin

I. Rock climbing category 2. Caucasus, GAKh 3. Mt. Dzhantugan, 3991 m, via the center of the West Face, combined route 4. Proposed category complexity: 5B 5. Height difference 740 m, route length 985 m Length of sections at category complexity: 135 m. Average slope of the route 50°, rock section 60° 6. Pitons hammered: rock 66, ice 0, placements 19 7. Climbing hours 13 8. No bivouacs, no suitable platforms on the route

The Dolra-Khevai ridge is located in the Elbrus group of peaks of the Caucasus in Upper Svaneti and forms part of the watershed between the valleys of the Angur, Dolra, and Nakra rivers. It stretches almost parallel to the Main Ridge south of the Dolguz-Orun peak and lies isolated on a spur between the Dolra and Kvich glaciers. The Dolra-Khevai ridge can be divided into the following three parts:

• the Dolra massif with the Eastern and Western - Main peaks (3860 m)
• the Trident massif with the Eastern - Pik Chetyrekh, Central, and Western peaks
• the Khevai massif with the Eastern and Western peaks. In the summer sports season of 1964, a team of climbers from the Odessa gatherings, consisting of:

1. LIVSHITS Viktor Yakovlevich - team leader, Master of Sports with experience of climbing 15 peaks of the 5th category of difficulty
2. BANDUROVSKY Igor Alexandrovich - participant, Master of Sports, with experience of climbing 15 peaks of the 5th category of difficulty
3. SHATILOV Vadim Mikhailovich - participant, 1st sports category, with experience of climbing 5 peaks of the 5th category of difficulty

ASCENT ROUTE DESCRIPTION to CENTRAL IRIK-CHAT peak (via Eastern summit) 2B cat. difficulty

The height of the peak is 4050 m. "Adyl-Su" tourist center 1975 The Irik-chat peaks are located in the Eastern spur of Elbrus. From the fork of the Baksan valley and Adyl-Su gorge, take the road to the Elbrus village, located at the entrance to the Irik-chat gorge. Take the lower trail on the right bank of the Irik-chat river and ascend the gorge. The trail goes along the grassy slope past sand pillars, small forests, to the confluence of the Chat and Irik rivers. At the forest boundary, there are "lower campsites". (3–3.5 hours from "Adyl-Su" tourist center). Then the trail goes up to the right along a steep grassy slope (40 min – 1 hour) and leads to a large stone on the site — "middle campsites". From here, ascend along the trail of the grassy slope, then along the scree towards the "Finger" gendarme on the saddle of the eastern ridge of the Irik-chat peak. The exit to the saddle is to the left of the "Finger" gendarme. 3–3.5 hours from "middle campsites" to the saddle.

66. Bolshoy Kogutai via North Ridge (Category 1B route, fig. 8, 13). The path from the "Baksan" alpine camp (group of 4-20 people) to the saddle in the North Ridge of Bolshoy Kogutai peak is described in route 60. The initial bivouac is on a large clearing with a forked rock. It takes 3 hours from the clearing to the saddle. From the saddle, turn left and ascend simple rocks of the ridge to below the 1st gendarme of the North Ridge of Bolshoy Kogutai peak. Climb up a 5-meter wall (most challenging section, piton belay!) to the gendarme (control cairn). Continue along simple rocks of the ridge, bypassing gendarmes on shelves to the right or left (belay!), to reach the summit of Bolshoy Kogutai. It takes 3-4 hours from the saddle. Descent from the summit:

• via the ascent route
• via the West Ridge (described in route 67) The duration of the route is 2 days.

49. Nakra via North-West Ridge (Route 2B cat. dif.). The path from the "Baksan" alp camp (group 4, 20 people) to the Donguzorun false pass col is described in routes 44 and 48. From the col, go left and 300–400 m up the heavily destroyed simple rocky North-West Ridge to a site below the first rocky ascent of Nakra peak. This part of the ridge can be bypassed on the right by descending from the col 15–20 m to the south, and traversing along the ridge to reach the first snowy ascent. Here, turn left and rise up the snowy slope to the sites on the ridge. The initial bivouac is on the sites. From the "Baksan" alp camp, 9–10 hours. From the sites (without backpacks), ascent along the heavily