- Bolshoy Kogutai via North Ridge (Category 1B route, fig. 8, 13).
The path from the "Baksan" alpine camp (group of 4-20 people) to the saddle in the North Ridge of Bolshoy Kogutai peak is described in route 60. The initial bivouac is on a large clearing with a forked rock. It takes 3 hours from the clearing to the saddle.
From the saddle, turn left and ascend simple rocks of the ridge to below the 1st gendarme of the North Ridge of Bolshoy Kogutai peak. Climb up a 5-meter wall (most challenging section, piton belay!) to the gendarme (control cairn). Continue along simple rocks of the ridge, bypassing gendarmes on shelves to the right or left (belay!), to reach the summit of Bolshoy Kogutai. It takes 3-4 hours from the saddle.
Descent from the summit:
- via the ascent route
- via the West Ridge (described in route 67)
The duration of the route is 2 days.