- Donguzorun Glavny via Northeast ridge (V. Markelov's route, cat.4A). From the «Baksan» alplager (group of 4-8 people) ascend along the trail on the left bank of the Baksan River. 150-200 m before «Narzan поляна», turn left and ascend along the steep slope overgrown with pine and birch forest, along the left bank of the Kogut-ayka stream. Above the forest, the trail goes through alpine meadows. Then cross the stream and ascend along the right bank up to a large clearing with a huge boulder split into two parts. Further, along grassy slopes and scree, bypassing the «boutonnieres» to the right, ascend to the Maly Kogutay glacier and, bypassing the tongue to the right, reach the glacier. Staying on the right side of the glacier, ascend along the Northern ridge of the Bolshoy Kogutay peak. After the glacier turns right, reach the well-defined saddle on the Northern ridge of the peak. From the glacier, ascend along the steep snowy scree to this saddle and descend onto a snow plateau. Across the snow plateau, then along the slope leading to a snow dome - the branching point of the Northwest ridge of the Donguzorun peak into the Eastern branch, on which both Kogutay peaks stand, and the Northern branch. Traverse the upper part of the dome and reach a rocky platform near the lake in front of the Big Gendarme on the Northeast ridge of Donguzorun. Set up a bivouac on the platforms. From the «Baksan» alplager 7-9 hours. Bypass the Big Gendarme to the right and ascend along a simple snowy long rocky ridge (cornices!) to the platforms below the first rocky ascent. From the lake 3.5-4 hours. Overcome the ridge ascent along rocks of above average difficulty via a chimney or to the right along two inclined 40-meter slabs (pitons!). Further, along a steep rocky, местами острому snowy (cornices!) ridge, ascend to the platforms below the rocky ascent to the Donguzorun peak. Along rocks of above average difficulty (pitons!) 35-40-meter ascent to a large boulder under an overhanging wall. From the boulder, traverse 15-20 m up and to the right (pitons!) to a narrow rocky-ice couloir. Along the couloir (pitons!) 25-30 m up and, bypassing a boulder emerging from under the ice to the right, reach a platform. Further, along an ice-snow slope with a small ice wall (pitons!), then along the right side of the ridge, ascend to the summit of Glavny Donguzorun. From the bivouac site near the lake 8-10 hours. Descent along the Southwest slope, with a second bivouac on the platforms below the Southwest ridge of the Nakra peak, is described in route 55. Duration of the route is 3 days. Special equipment for 4 people: main rope - 2×40 m, auxiliary cord - 3 m, rock pitons - 8-10, ice pitons - 5-6, rock hammers - 2, carabiners - 10-12, crampons - 4 pairs, tent - 1. Possible bivouac sites - on the Kogutay glaciers, on the platforms and snowy sections of the ridge, on the summit. «Baksanskaya dolina», A.F. Naumov