172а

KSP Elbrus region

Report

on the first ascent in the technical class of the KSP Elbrus region team led by Nagorny S.I. ROUTE: peak ULLU-KARA via the center of the Western wall.

Main route characteristics table

REPORT

on the first ascent to the summit of Ushba Malaia via the Southwest wall, Caucasus, category 5B, carried out by the team of the Sports Committee of the Ukrainian SSR led by Grigorenko-Prigoda Yu.I. 1981 Profile of M. Ushba

TABLE of main characteristics of the route to v. Ushba M. via the Southwest wall

COMMITTEE FOR PHYSICAL CULTURE AND SPORTS UNDER THE COUNCIL OF MINISTERS OF THE USSR Dedicated to the XXV Congress of the CPSU.

Ascent Report

On the ascent of the North peak of Ushba, 4695 m, via the North-East face; Central Caucasus; technically complex ascent category. COMPOSITION OF THE ASCENT GROUP:

1. MONOGAROV V.D., Master of Sport, "AVANGARD"
2. LAVRINENKO D.N., Master of Sport, "—"
3. VOLYNSKY V.A., Master of Sport, "—"
4. BERESNEV V.P., Candidate for Master of Sport, "—"
5. KLATAEVSKY V.I., Candidate for Master of Sport, "—"

1. Category of ice and snow ascents.
2. Central Caucasus.
3. North Ushba via NW wall.
4. Proposed route: 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 1600 m, length — 2300 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 1320 m. Average steepness: main sections — 58° (3800–4650 m), entire route — 49°.
6. Pitons driven: rock — 46, chocks — 18, ice screws — 49, snow anchors — 25.
7. Team's climbing hours: 25 days : 2
8. Overnight stops: 1st and 2nd bivouacs were dug out on a snow-ice slope.

Ascent Passport

1. Class — winter
2. Climbing area — Central Caucasus
3. Peak — Ushba N. 4694 m, via the Northwest wall
4. Category of difficulty — 6A
5. Height difference — 1017 m, length — 1700 m, length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 1020 m, length of sections with 6th category of difficulty — 70 m, average steepness of the wall section of the route — 47°
6. Pitons driven: rock, chocks, ice screws, bolt pitons | 5 | 3 | 83 | 0 | | :-: | :-: | :--: | :-: | | 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 |

1. Technical class.
2. Central Caucasus
3. Ushba South summit 4710 m via the center of the SW wall through the "Stolb" on Golubev's route.
4. Category 5B, 2nd ascent of the "Golden" route of 1981.
5. Elevation gain: 1460 m, length 2005 m. Length of sections with category 5–6 difficulty: 1030 m. Average steepness of main sections is 72° (3490–4630 m). Of these, category 6 sections: 855 m - (3520–4110 m) 575 m at 80–81°; (4182–4400 m) 145 m at 68°; (4470–4630 m) 135 m at 80°.
6. Pitons used: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :-: | | 134 | 0 | 144 | 10 |

USSR ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP 1981. TECHNICAL CLIMB CLASS

Central Caucasus 196a

Report

On the ascent of the Sports Committee team of the Ministry of Defense of the USSR to the SOUTHERN USHBA peak via the edge of the Western wall through the "pillar".

Brief overview of the ascent object and route

Many routes have been laid out to the peaks of the Ushba, about twenty of which have received prizes at the USSR Championships. Two 6th category routes pass along the bastions of the Western wall of the Southern peak. At the junction of the Western and South-Western walls of the second rock belt, a sheer 700-meter granite "pillar" rises. To the left, the "pillar" is bypassed by a giant internal angle of the Western wall, along which Myshlyaev—Kosmahev laid out a fine route. To the right, along the South-Western wall, a route by V. Monogarov's group goes upwards to the right, also marked with gold medals at the USSR Championship. The routes are symmetrically positioned relative to the vertical axis of the "pillar". (Along the axis, a large crevice - a chimney - runs from the top). The upper 2/3 of the "pillar" between the internal angle of Myshlyaev on the left and the visual mid-axis overhang with a convex relief "fresco". This is the protrusion of a huge monolithic slab (400–450 m long), intersected by two transverse tiers of cornices. Along the right edge of this slab, 20–30 m from the mid-axis, a route was laid out in 1981. To the foot of the "pillar", the route coincides with the route of L. Myshlyaev and V. Monogarov (300 m of the ridge). Further, 560 new meters were passed along the sheer wall. On the rocks above the "pillar", the route coincides with L. Myshlyaev's route. Further, the route goes to the bastion "knife" with a variant to the left of L. Myshlyaev's route.

1. Climbing category Mechanical (92)
2. Climbing area Central Caucasus
3. Climbing route with indication Ushba South peak and their heights via the western wall 4710 m.
4. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference 1690 m (without icefall), average steepness 67°, route length 1931 m (without icefall), length of difficult sections more than 300 m.
5. Pitons hammered in: rock 277, ice 51, bolt 24
6. Number of climbing hours 74.5 h
7. Number of nights and their characteristics: 8 of them: normal in a tent 2, sitting in a suspended tent 5, sleepless in hammocks 1

ASCENT DOCUMENT.

1. Ascent category — technical.
2. Ascent region — Central Caucasus.
3. Object of ascent — Ushba South peak (4710 m) via the right part of the SW wall (Kustovsky route) 6B category of complexity.
4. Height difference of the wall section — 580 m. Total height difference — 1460 m.
5. Total route length — 1897.5 m, including sections of 5–6 category of complexity — 835.5 m.
6. Average steepness of the route — 68°, including the wall section — 80°.
7. Pitons hammered: | rock | ice | bolt | chocks |

Fig. 58

3. Ascent to the Perednyaya Chotcha peak via the northwestern ridge — category 4B difficulty (Fig. 58)

From the Northern refuge along a log over the Khokel river and along the trail alongside the Chotcha river to the foot of the northwestern ridge — bivouac. From the Northern refuge 1–2 hours. From the bivouac along the slope and grassy ledges left-upwards under the first overhanging spur on the ridge. Bypass the spur from the left (protection through the spurs!), then right-upwards onto the ridge to a loose couloir (rockfall danger!) and along it under the 100-meter wall of the first ascent. Along the wall of the ascent:

• right — upwards 35–40 m,
• then left — upwards,
• exit onto grassy ledges (protection through the spurs, partially bolted!). Further: